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Old 04-20-2018, 08:47 AM   #1
VegasRose
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Exclamation Solar Pre-Wire

When you spend a 6-digit number on a new rig (3120RL), and the owners packet has a card that shows GoPower Prewire, and you see the solar panel hook up on the roof, you get excited!

Now, HERE IS THE BAD and wish someone would answer this from the company! Why wouldn't Keystone provide a schematic on where these wires are? I have pulled switch panel, electrical center (where converter is), pulled all panels to expose wiring in storage bay, battery bay, and refrigerator panels (vents) and can't fine ANYTHING.

I then moved onto place a wire tracer (toner) on the roof connection, and proceeded to hit every wire I could reach and nothing. No tones heard, so I have no clue, and it forces me to go to the dealer to get my kit installed. I really believe a schematic should be included so owners have the ability to add the system they want......

Thanks!
 
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Old 04-20-2018, 11:11 AM   #2
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I see your point, but did you actually pay 6 figures for a Montana?!
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Old 04-20-2018, 11:57 AM   #3
VegasRose
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Yeah....6 figures isn't something I'm willing to fund, how about 5 figures! Thanks for the catch!
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Old 04-20-2018, 12:18 PM   #4
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Yeah....6 figures isn't something I'm willing to fund, how about 5 figures! Thanks for the catch!
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Old 04-20-2018, 06:19 PM   #5
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I wish I could answer your question but we no longer have our Montana. As I recall the wires came out in the convenience center though. May have been some other wires.

Sorry about the replies. Typical Internet behavior where people go off on a tangent and do not answer the question.
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Old 04-21-2018, 06:58 AM   #6
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My understanding is that what's supplied will give you minimal solar at best and a real system would need to be installed and wired properly to be very functional.
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Old 04-21-2018, 09:05 AM   #7
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My solar prewire ran from the roof to behind the panel where the electrical switches are located in the hallway. There was a GoPower sticker set up to cut a small portion of the panel out. Wiring did not extend forward to the battery compartment. You can run about 400 watts through it.
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Old 04-21-2018, 12:13 PM   #8
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Just remember you are dealing with DC, so length of cable run for figuring out voltage drop and wire size is the length of the hot and the ground wire combined. Otherwise, things can get warm and electronics fail to operate to specifications.
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Old 02-03-2019, 10:15 PM   #9
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I've ran into the same issue, $70,000 for a 2019 3810MS, no help from the factory on access to wiring diagrams. My sticker says Jaboni prewired MPPT. This would indicate more than just wiring but I can't find anything.
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Old 02-04-2019, 08:00 AM   #10
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They don't provide a wiring diagram or as built because no two are guaranteed to be the same first of all and secondly it's a cost that makes no sense for Keystone to absorb.

I used to be an electrical superintendent for a commercial mobile factory assembled structure company many years ago. These are not wired by licensed electricians. The cost to the company and the subsequent sale price would be through the roof. The wiring is done by "trainers" ($30 +application in my state) a single electrician may review all the work on the production line then an inspector signs off and down the aisle it goes.

The best thing about the solar pre-wire marketing gimmick is that they provide you with a pathway and pull wire. Use the undersized wire to pull larger. You can use the undersized wire if you are installing your panels in series, but that's another discussion entirely.
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Old 02-04-2019, 11:14 AM   #11
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I ordered my trailer with the 265W solar panel. I plan on adding two 265W panels. During another mod (cut roof open to add another vent for rear living area), I discovered how they ran the solar panel wire in the ceiling as it ran in the same truss bay were I opened up the roof/ceiling. It looked to be a no larger than a 12 gauge wire. Maybe 10. It ran to the wall on the DS even though the panel was on the ODS. Then down the wall between two slides and likely under the floor to the MPPT controller. I'd like to use the existing wire if it's at least 10g and run the two additional panels in series and upgrade the controller. If it's not clipped to anything in the wall or ceiling, I will upgrade it and use it as a pull wire as noted above. It'd be nice if they'd just provide conduit in one or two places. In the old days, I just ran wire in the chase behind the fridge.
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Old 02-04-2019, 11:22 AM   #12
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Chances are high that the factory wiring is secured. There is usually a void that can serve as a chase behind the control center. Also the tank vents are another popular option. I used the latter. Drilled and tapped the vent pipe, used weather tight fittings to seal the wire so no gases escape.
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Old 02-04-2019, 01:54 PM   #13
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It should be 10 gage, and I think the one guy is right good for maybe 400 watts. I added 2 -170's. Wires are located behind convenience center, cap and taped together and second run did run through the to batteries. Mine was wired to batteries so and fused.
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Old 02-04-2019, 02:27 PM   #14
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It should be 10 gage, and I think the one guy is right good for maybe 400 watts. I added 2 -170's.

That's true for a parallel installation. If you run in series at a higher voltage you can go higher than 400W easily as long as your controller is rated for that input voltage.
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Old 02-13-2019, 10:25 PM   #15
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I finally found my wiring. Ran straight from the battery terminals to the roof making 13.5VDC at the MC4 connectors. It is spliced behind the black carpet panel next to the battery. A data cable goes from there to behind the switch panel.
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Old 02-13-2019, 10:30 PM   #16
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I finally found my wiring. Ran straight from the battery terminals to the roof making 13.5VDC at the MC4 connectors. It is spliced behind the black carpet panel next to the battery. A data cable goes from there to behind the switch panel.

That's bizarre that they have it tied directly to the batteries in the prep option.
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Old 02-14-2019, 07:11 AM   #17
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Prewire run to batteries

Yes it is odd they would run it directly to the battery, it is actually tied into the terminal on the bulkhead which runs directly to the battery. I believe the installers were supposed to cap it off by the vacuum and not actually tie it in the the wire going to the roof.
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Old 02-01-2020, 05:06 AM   #18
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Oops did you no need to be an idiot
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Old 02-01-2020, 07:24 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetskier View Post
I ordered my trailer with the 265W solar panel. I plan on adding two 265W panels. During another mod (cut roof open to add another vent for rear living area), I discovered how they ran the solar panel wire in the ceiling as it ran in the same truss bay were I opened up the roof/ceiling. It looked to be a no larger than a 12 gauge wire. Maybe 10. It ran to the wall on the DS even though the panel was on the ODS. Then down the wall between two slides and likely under the floor to the MPPT controller. I'd like to use the existing wire if it's at least 10g and run the two additional panels in series and upgrade the controller. If it's not clipped to anything in the wall or ceiling, I will upgrade it and use it as a pull wire as noted above. It'd be nice if they'd just provide conduit in one or two places. In the old days, I just ran wire in the chase behind the fridge.
This is what I get from jaboni about the 265watt factory installed system. Hope it helps.

Adam,

Currently, the 2000w inverter is wired to the Recliners, Living room TV, Fridge, Bedroom Nightstand outlet and Kitchen GFI. It is not wired to the AC and it isn’t strong enough to run one. To run an AC you really need a large battery bank, 3000w inverter/charger and the AC should have a “Soft Start” installed.

You can add a second panel to the existing system without overloading it. If you go any larger you would need to run a second set of wires or wire the panels in series and go with a larger MPPT charger that could handle the higher voltage and upgrade the wire and fuse from the Solar Charger to the batteries. Technically, the 10awg wires from roof to charger can carry 30 amps dc. If you had 4 265w panels wired in series that would be about 9 amps at 117 volts. You could then run a 75amp 150v charger and only change the wiring in the lower compartment.

We will have our own 60a charger fairly soon but we do carry the full line of Victron chargers if you want to go larger.

Thanks,

Matt Wolkins
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Old 02-03-2020, 03:10 PM   #20
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Battery Disconnect switch question

I have a 2016 Montana 3820FK 5th wheel. In the storage compartment I have a Battery Disconnect switch. When I go to put it in storage, which way (on or off) should I place this switch??? I have received different recommendations from different people, including the RV service shop!! Since I have had numerous electrical problems with batteries dead on numerous occasions, I am really confused now!!
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