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Old 06-30-2019, 03:38 PM   #1
Fishin2dMax
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Modifications to my HC for boon-docking

Some of our favorite places to camp doesn't have power or water available. While we like our HC 305 RL, it wasn't exactly set-up well for Boon-docking.

1, The first thing that drove me nuts was the need to have 110 power to operate the recliners. I easily solved this with a small (150 to 300 Watt) 12VDC to 110 VAC mini inverter wired to the 12 volts found in the little box in wall corner behind the recliner. All I do now is reach down between recliner and wall and turn on the mini inverter to operate my recliners and shut it off when not using the recliners for a extended period of time.

2, A real challenge when boon-docking is the inability to fill fresh water tank via gravity feed inlet on exterior of the 5'er (using water portable water containers). I simply changed the fresh water tank vent (on driver side rear skirt) to a gravity feed water inlet, with vent (some reinforcing behind skirt is required) - very easy to do and it looks OEM.

3, Rear wheel landing gear pad. I found the landing gear pad (behind the rear wheels) was just a little too close to ground level when traversing uneven or gravel road terrain. While there isn't much more clearance available, I was able to gain approx 3/4" more clearance by raising the rear landings gears to the next hole up on the frame mount. This isn't much, but it makes a big difference when going over uneven terrain and possibly hitting or dragging a landing gear pad.

4, I added additional USB charging ports above Coffee station counter and in and around entertainment center. Where you can find 12 volts, there are wall mountable USB ports that work great to keep you're electronics charged.

5, Use of portable solar panel has worked well, but the wiring from and the furrion solar panel connector is maxed out at 100 to 150 watts. I'm adding solar panels to the roof to reduce the need to run a generator to keep the batteries up.

Hopefully, Keystone will realize that while the Montana HC is a full time rated unit, there is still a need to maintain basic ability to Boon-dock - as they did in earlier years of the HC and Mountaineer versions. With a few minor modifications, I now have a very nice boon-dockable 5'er.
 
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Old 06-30-2019, 05:16 PM   #2
mazboy
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montana is NOT a full time unit. look at the small print in the booklets. this was brought to my attention last year at the rally.


enjoy what you have and just keep moving on.
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Old 06-30-2019, 05:27 PM   #3
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Come on down to Quartzsite next year and you will see Montanas configured for serious boondocking.
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Old 06-30-2019, 06:43 PM   #4
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I like boondocking to. I’m not a fan of camp grounds. I’m a county boy my nearest neighbor is 200 yards away with almost a half mile on the other three sides. Camp grounds are too much like town so when ever possible you will find me boondocking.

I’ve made my HC and C class MH more friendly to boondocking. I have a receptacle close to the fuse box that is wired to my 400 watt inverter. The top plug in and the bottom have been separated. The top is wired to the inverter the bottom to standard 110. This is the circuit to the TV and several receptacles. I have a pig tail run out of the wall. Plug it in the top for the inverter in the bottom for standard 110.
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Old 08-21-2019, 08:32 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishin2dMax View Post
Some of our favorite places to camp doesn't have power or water available. While we like our HC 305 RL, it wasn't exactly set-up well for Boon-docking.

2, A real challenge when boon-docking is the inability to fill fresh water tank via gravity feed inlet on exterior of the 5'er (using water portable water containers). I simply changed the fresh water tank vent (on driver side rear skirt) to a gravity feed water inlet, with vent (some reinforcing behind skirt is required) - very easy to do and it looks OEM.

I realize this post is a couple months old but I just noticed and intrigued
with the gravity fill conversion of the tank vent. How did you vent the tank
when installing the gravity fill inlet? Is there a second hose/pipe coming
up from the tank? Did the vent hose fit the barb on the gravity inlet?

I've thought about disconnecting the main hose going to the pump inlet when gravity filling through the vent but haven't tried it yet. I have to go painfully slow when using a funnel to gravity fill through the existing vent.
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Old 08-21-2019, 08:40 AM   #6
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Don't know how everything is plumbed now days, but at one time you could use the "Winterization" port into a portable water tank, then attach the outside hose to the Power Fill connection. Turn on the pump, draw water from the portable tank and pump it into the Fresh Water tank via the winterization port.
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Old 08-21-2019, 09:10 AM   #7
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Don't know how everything is plumbed now days, but at one time you could use the "Winterization" port into a portable water tank, then attach the outside hose to the Power Fill connection. Turn on the pump, draw water from the portable tank and pump it into the Fresh Water tank via the winterization port.

I've tried that a couple of times without success. Tried going in the winter port and out of the exterior shower to the city fill. Even manipulating the valves every which way I could think and still no success. Pump just ran and ran with very little water actually going in the tank. I need to give it another try while at home instead of at the campsite though. (More relaxed without people needing water asap.) lol
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Old 08-21-2019, 09:14 AM   #8
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I use a 45 gallon water pillow and a small 120 volt pump to refill hooked to the normal city water connection. Refills the tank in about 10 minutes.
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Old 08-21-2019, 10:10 PM   #9
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I do the same as Zack, except I use a HF 12 volt pump that I've added a trailer plug to a longer cord so I can plug it into the trailer connector in the truck bed and also have a toggle switch so I can turn it on and off. Doing this, you can also use a filter when filling your tank from a bladder.
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Old 08-22-2019, 06:43 PM   #10
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I had time today to mess around with the camper at home. Sure enough, I was able to fill the tank with the existing water pump. Only thing I did different this time was use much shorter hoses. I may have been getting air somewhere as well the first times I tried.

If anyone needs details, let me know and I'll post up connections and valve positions that will allow you to fill your fresh water tank using your existing water pump.
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Old 08-22-2019, 06:48 PM   #11
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Creeker, Glad you got it figured out and working for you.
I knew it worked on our 2012 Monty, but wasn't sure about the newer units.
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Old 08-22-2019, 07:03 PM   #12
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We boon-docking most of the time. When you are set up right you can do everything that you do when hooked up to 50 amps.
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Old 08-28-2019, 09:46 PM   #13
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Creeker, I'd like the details of your fill solution, please.
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Old 10-02-2019, 09:36 AM   #14
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Creeker I would also like those details. Thank you
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Old 11-12-2019, 07:57 AM   #15
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Re fresh water: Tractor Supply has a nice battery operated transfer pump for filling tank from a large jug.
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Old 11-12-2019, 09:10 AM   #16
Fishin2dMax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Creeker View Post
I've tried that a couple of times without success. Tried going in the winter port and out of the exterior shower to the city fill. Even manipulating the valves every which way I could think and still no success. Pump just ran and ran with very little water actually going in the tank. I need to give it another try while at home instead of at the campsite though. (More relaxed without people needing water asap.) lol
It will work, but it is slow. Using the winterization port (turn knob to winterization position) and connect exterior wash faucet hose to city water connection (turn exterior wash faucet cold knob to full on and turn water fill to tank position). Place a hose from winterization connection into portable water tank source (elevate portable tank as high as possible) and turn on water pump. NOTE: The inlet hose must not be allowed to suck any air while emptying tank.

While this process is somewhat slow, it does work. I carry two 7 gallon portable water jugs and it empties them in approx 5 minutes back into the main water tank. The key is not letting the hose suck any air when emptying the portable tanks.

The above said, I also added a gravity feed inlet where the water tank vent comes out on side of trailer(toward the rear left side). It too is very slow, but it gives me options for water replenishment when we Boondock.
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Old 11-12-2019, 09:13 AM   #17
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Creeker, I'd like the details of your fill solution, please.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Calbrewguy View Post
Creeker I would also like those details. Thank you
Sorry Guys, I just noticed these posts. Since its been a few months, I'll need to get back to the camper and go through the steps again to remind myself and give you guys the proper procedure.

I will update though. May be a week or three as winter just kicked in here today. 68 degrees yesterday to wake up to 29 and snow on the ground this morning. 15 degrees tonight.
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Old 11-12-2019, 09:18 AM   #18
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Oops. Fishin2dmax and I must have been typing replies at the same time.
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Old 01-11-2020, 05:57 PM   #19
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Thanks Creeker and Fishin2dMax!
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Old 01-12-2020, 09:51 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by mazboy View Post
montana is NOT a full time unit. look at the small print in the booklets. this was brought to my attention last year at the rally.


enjoy what you have and just keep moving on.
I know this is a really old post but wanted to agree with you in a way. Keystone loves to throw the RV stands for Recreational Vehicle line out there all the time. It is their way of avoiding addressing very real quality issues that full timers find with their products!! They use it as a disclaimer to say "well you bought the unit knowing it was not intended for full time use, we even say that in very tiny print on our brochures". Its a corporate way of covering their liabilities. So whatever you do, never admit in a court that you are full timing. They will use it to not fix issues if they can.
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