Dometic fridge not getting cold

[Foldbak]

Originally Posted by Carl n Susan

Tony: The inside fans used to connect to the light back when there was a constant hot side to the light. You could tap into it and be good. But the new gas/electric refers don't use that system. They turn the light on and off by contacts in the door. Consequently there is no hot in the light all the time (only when the door is open which doesn't do much good).

The good news is that it is easy to feed the fan 12V wire down the drain tube line and hook into constant 12V in the back of the refer.

Now there's an idea I didn't consider. Mine has switches not contacts. Can't seam to figure out how to remove the light fixture. It's held in a what looks like a plastic rivet. Also checked the temp this morning and it's sitting at 40 on the display. No change after fixing the exhaust fan.

[Butch & Kathy]

Below is a post from me from 2020, my lessons learned about the Norcold. Update since then is I installed a “Amish” cooling unit. I follow the same principles below but have solid ice cream and cold adult beverages…

An old post of mine:
I have figured out how to help keep my Norcold 2118 cold. I keep the door closed as much as possible as it take a long time for the fridge to recover. Here is a list of tips:
- install an ARP unit and two external fans. https://www.arprv.com/products.php
- consider using the ARP setting to disable the defrost cycle
- check the door seals using the dollar bill test
- check & adjust the center door flap, they tend to drag on the bottom and not fully close
- install an interior fan that clips to the cooling fins, wired to inside fan.
- DO NOT open the door to check the temperature, use a remote digital thermometer https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- I also use a small bottle of water with an thermometer stuck through the lid to verify temperature. This will tell you your food temp vs. air temp of the remote
- plan your trips into the fridge. It is not like a residential fridge where you can open the door and browse. It takes a long time to recover from door openings.

[Foldbak]

I just installed 2 analog thermometers. I also tested the light. It has a shared ground assuming the hot is red....didn't check that. If that's the case they are switching the hot and the (what I assume is ground is shared).


Carl, when you say I can you fish a wire through the water drain, How?


I did order a battery operated fan. I'll try that and see if it makes a diff. DW just told me that some creamer spoiled recently.... I think I have a problem.

[Carl n Susan]

Originally Posted by Foldbak

....Carl, when you say I can you fish a wire through the water drain, How? ....

There should be a drain pan under the fins. The back left corner plugs into the drain hose that runs into the evaporator pan in the back of the refer. There is a plug in the end on the hose. The #18 or #20 wire they use for the fans slips down the hole in the drain pan and the hose easily and doesn't adversely affect the drain function. There is a switched (refer on/off) 12V hot on the circuit board in the rear of the refer that you can tap into to get power.

[Foldbak]

Originally Posted by Carl n Susan

There should be a drain pan under the fins. The back left corner plugs into the drain hose that runs into the evaporator pan in the back of the refer. There is a plug in the end on the hose. The #18 or #20 wire they use for the fans slips down the hole in the drain pan and the hose easily and doesn't adversely affect the drain function. There is a switched (refer on/off) 12V hot on the circuit board in the rear of the refer that you can tap into to get power.

Thanks Carl. I've been monitoring the temps.
Last night. This morning it was 34 on the monitor. 5 deg in the freezer and 50 degrees in the fridge....

[rames14]

Foldbak, sorry, didn’t see this earlier. Did you look at the flapper between the doors. Every Norcold I have ever seen has an issue with the flapper hitting on the bottom and not closing completely. Removing the plastic corner cover, 3 screws, lift door, add 5/16” washer on bottom pin and replace door. I’m not saying it’s your issue, but we have fixed numerous fridges where the freezer was cold and the fridge wasn’t this way (including two of mine).

[Foldbak]

Originally Posted by rames14

Foldbak, sorry, didn’t see this earlier. Did you look at the flapper between the doors. Every Norcold I have ever seen has an issue with the flapper hitting on the bottom and not closing completely. Removing the plastic corner cover, 3 screws, lift door, add 5/16” washer on bottom pin and replace door. I’m not saying it’s your issue, but we have fixed numerous fridges where the freezer was cold and the fridge wasn’t this way (including two of mine).

Mine is a Dometic. I haven't checked the doors yet. I talked to my dealership and they told me to unplug the thermistor and see if it cools better. I did stumble on this resource.
https://www.arprv.com/dometic-troubl...ing-repair.php

[Foldbak]

Update: Unplugging the thermistor didn't work. The unit stopped cooling completely. I plugged it back in and removed it from it's retainer clip. Wrapped some tissue and tape around it. It's just hanging right now and the fridge is 30 degrees this morning.

[ChuckS]

Originally Posted by Foldbak

Update: Unplugging the thermistor didn't work. The unit stopped cooling completely. I plugged it back in and removed it from it's retainer clip. Wrapped some tissue and tape around it. It's just hanging right now and the fridge is 30 degrees this morning.

If your fridge is a Dometic RM1350 then you can’t unplug the thermistor.. it won’t cool

[Foldbak]

Originally Posted by ChuckS

If your fridge is a Dometic RM1350 then you can’t unplug the thermistor.. it won’t cool

Ya I found that out. I was following the dealers suggestion....

[jimcol]

Sounds like it is time for a new thermistor. With it unclipped from the cooling fin it will just keep trying to get colder and colder.

[ChuckS]

Read back thru this thread and a few things I did not see regarding checks that you should do..
1. Check the lower fridge door gaskets all the way around using a dollar bill with the door closed. You should not be able to easily slide the dollar out if the door gaskets are good and doors are sealing.

2. I dont see that you removed the thermistor and performing an ohm check on it to verify it is within tolerance.. Refer to pg 19 in this link to the service manual on test procedure https://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/Serv...,%20RM1350.pdf

3. There is a drain hose out the backside of the RM1350 located inside the lower outside access panel.. At the end of that drain hose is a check valve .. if it is missing or the hose is cracked and leaking then this can also cause the fridge section to have cooling issues.. Refer to page 37 in the service manual link above

just a few items to consider if you have not already looked into them

** Note.. on the RM1350 the thermistor IS NOT adjustable.. it is mounted to the inside top section of the fridge and no adjustment

[Foldbak]

Update.
The dealer tested the fridge and determined that the cooling unit is bad. They are submitting a claim to Norcold Monday. I should have a new cooling unit installed in the next 4 to 5 weeks.