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Old 09-22-2013, 08:01 PM   #21
Icehouse
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In Alaska for the past 6 years, I blow out all the lines with air and just put the pink stuff down the P traps and some in the tanks. This is all I have done and had no issues. Also blew out the lines in the washer / dryer. Maybe just lucky, but have had no issues since 2007 in the Last Frontier.
 
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Old 09-23-2013, 01:44 AM   #22
bncinwv
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Icehouse

In Alaska for the past 6 years, I blow out all the lines with air and just put the pink stuff down the P traps and some in the tanks. This is all I have done and had no issues. Also blew out the lines in the washer / dryer. Maybe just lucky, but have had no issues since 2007 in the Last Frontier.
I am curious how you can blow out the lines for the washer? I would not think this would take the water out of the individual components and the tub and drain side also. I assume in addition to the air, that you also used the spin cycle to get all water removed from the drain side? I am a lot more comfortable using the method which is in the Splenide manual, which is two procedures for using the pink stuff. I am not saying what you are doing is wrong, just not my preference.
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Old 09-23-2013, 02:00 AM   #23
MIMF
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I use compressed air. After draining the fresh water tank and water heater, I set the compressor regulator at 30 psi. Then, go to all faucets and open them until only air comes out. This includes the washer/dryer prep valves in the closet and the outside shower faucets. When nothing but air has come out of all the faucets, after disconnecting the compressor, I then go thru and open ALL faucets and open all low point drains. Once that is all done, I talk a gallon of antifreeze and pour some down all of the drains. Have never had a problem yet.
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Old 09-23-2013, 02:28 AM   #24
bncinwv
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Dale, does this mean you don't have a washer, or do you disconnect it when winterizing? I am still trying to get my arms around the previous post and winterizing a washer with air.
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Old 09-23-2013, 05:25 AM   #25
racerjoe
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Bingo, what I do when winterizing cottages with a washer is when the air is hooked up, you set the washer to fill using both cold and hot or your warm setting. after you hear air,I switch it to spin and the pump will come on and empty any water in there. when done I put a cup of antifreeze into the tub and turn the spin back on for a couple seconds. so far,so good.
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Old 09-23-2013, 05:51 AM   #26
Ramblin Roadrunners
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I winterised my SOB yesterday. It is parked at 9800 ft and gets cold. I winterised it by draining everything out and sucking 1 gallon of antifreeze into the system. Its a 98 model and I add antifreeze to the system at the pump. I have a short hose that connects to the pump and sucks out of the 1 gallon bottle. I open each water tap one at time until pink comes out. In 14 years I have never had a busted line.
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Old 09-23-2013, 01:07 PM   #27
MIMF
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No Bingo, I'm sorry.....I should have stated that I don't have a washer/dryer set-up. I just simply open ALL faucets as I stated to make sure air comes from all of them.

Something else that many of you may not be aware of. In this day and age of the Pex flexible water lines that is used, if you use air to blow everything out, you do not need to be concerned if there is water left in a line somewhere. Let me explain.

The inside surface of the pipe will be wet. No amount of air will blow all of that out. So, what happens is that, the water will drip and drain down to the lowest point it can travel. It will lay there and eventually freeze. Now, we all learned in 5th grade science class that when water freezes, it expands. Who cares!! If there is room for it to expand up and down the inside diameter of that pipe....it won't break nothin'! Where trouble starts is when the water is under pressure and, it does not have to be under much residual pressure. It breaks things when that water does not have room to expand as it freezes.

Like I said, I leave all of the faucets open and that includes the low point drains. Ain't ever had an issue yet in the 8 years I've done this.
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Old 09-23-2013, 02:49 PM   #28
bncinwv
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After all of this follow up regarding the use of air and the presence of a washer, I will only add that I will continue to use the manufacturers procedure for winterizing. I have concerns that the air method leaves too much chance of water remaining in the washer pump and valves. The other thing I will add is it takes us a little over a gallon of antifreeze to do the washer and another couple of gallons for the rig. Total expense of about $12 to $16 depending on sale prices. I will continue to buy my pink insurance. Make your decisions based on your comfort level, I did and have never had a problem. I also use the same pink insurance in our boat, and feel confident that the price of this insurance is worth it! As always, my opinion, and my rationale for my choice.
Bingo
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Old 09-24-2013, 01:20 AM   #29
tweber502
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I haven't winterized mine yet as it's not cold enough and still have some camping trips planned. I do however have a question, (hopefully not a stupid one). The fresh tank is in the far rear of the Monty and the water pump is directly behind the convenience center so how does the water line from the tank to the pump get winterized? Do I have to get in behind the convenience center and disconnect the suction side of the pump and blow air through it to the fresh tank? Tim
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Old 09-24-2013, 01:56 AM   #30
racerjoe
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that water if any will drain back into the tank when you drain the tank. I have never heard of a problem with that line. Good question though
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