Ozz X-factor

[Ozz]

Note to self: Don't weld and Plasma cut in house-slippers and P.J.'s...
After many sleepless mornings, I think I have what I will be happy with, as far as a brace for the hanging Mor-ryde suspension.
It is difficult (for me) to figure a good system.
You can't weld onto the rubber-encased system without damaging the rubber, or possibly warping the (Mor-ryde) case.
Bolting to the case would damage, and degrade the spring mass of the rubber assembly.
So, I figured I would just clamp onto it. This has to be as good, or maybe better than the thin factory after-market bracing.
It's all 1/4" steel, the bolts will be 5/8 hardened.
The cross member will be carefully cut to length, I will make a jig for that to insure it is as close as I can get it. If it is a little short, I can shim it. I will then weld it securely.
This system covers all the problems encountered with coming up with something I could come up with.
Any of you could have this made in the field, (on the road) bolt it on yourself, and carry the square-stock to a shop and have it welded, however a portable welding service would be my choice while on the road. You could also have them do the whole deal if you wish.

Slide-show of the braces:

Suspension hanger bracing. This will allow a solid square-stock to go from side-to side.
Just cut it to the length, slide it in and weld it. If you get it close to touching each side, I think the welds will hold the flexing fine. You could shim as needed if your cut is short.

http://tinyurl.com/OzzXfactor

[pineranch]

Ozz,
I saw were you got this idea from and thought about the potential problem then. If you make this thing so the frame or hanger cannot flex, you may be setting yourself up for a catastrophic break in the undercarrage someplace else. Perhaps a mechanical/structures guy can hop on this and give us some guidance. Thoughout my aircraft maintenance career, I've seen us stop structural damage in one area only to have it migrate to another with increased structural fracturing. Just my random thoughts on the subject.
Mike

[Ozz]

The frame guys are offering it as an option, the X-factor; I guess from Mor-ryde. I will be 'Beefing up' my frame around that area. I assume they want the tires to do the 'flexing'.
I am no engineer either, but looking at it, the suspension is just welded to the bottom of the frame, the term "Give me a lever and I can move the world" can apply here maybe, the side-forces act like a lever, intensifying the pressures. looks to me like it hanging down like that, is a weak link.
Many have stiffened this and I haven't read any problems (with the gusset, or boxing of the frame.)
I could be wrong, but I am doing all I can to beef it up.

[pineranch]

Ozz,
Big difference between "inhibiting" and preventing. I am thinking about doing the beef up of the spring hangers like others have. I have the x-factor and it does inhibit but will not tie both sides together so they cannot flex some. What I saw the other guy do and what you appear to be doing is using material that will not allow the sides to do their thing independently.
Mike

[Ozz]

I stand by what I did, and what I am doing

[gcrocket]

Don't worry about being too stiff. You are doing essentially what is described in this Lippert recommendation. 2in tube steel gusseted to the hanger brackets, welded solid.
http://www.lci1.com/LIP/0135.pdf
i just completed the same thing.

[gcrocket]

What your doing is similar to the Lippert recomendation on this-http://www.lci1.com/LIP/0135.pdf (see pg 2). I just completed the addition myself.

[dieselguy]

Ozz: Nice cranial conclusion. I think we're all going the same direction here no matter what the cash layout is. I noticed at the KC RV show a few weeks ago, SOB had a similar setup compared to the X factor. It was basically two square tubes cut to length welded between both outboard spring hangars. There is not a whole lot under the Montana frame holding the I beams apart ... I've been under several units with the belly pan down. The wimpy beams every 2-3 feet apart are basically a couple of light pieces of stamped angle held together by several pieces of round stock welded in place ultimately forming a "truss". I'm convinced they're mainly for flooring support. I believe any cross support in the spring hangar area will be a plus. I'm a Montana owner thru to the bone, but if one really wants to see a "frame" under a fiver ... crawl under an Excel unit.

[Illini Trekker]

Ozz if I can add two cents, it looks like you've got a good hold at the top but look like it could still flex from the bottom. The bolts can still give the piece a pivot point to move? Could you place two small tacks at the bottom of the inside piece it would hold the bottom, tack it then have a wet towel ready to cool the metal after the tack. I've never seen the Mor-ryde up close, but even making 1/2" tacks at a time should not heat it up or warp it? Your call OZZ!

[nowinter]

I initially planned on making and installing my own X-Factor system. I spoke with Ben at Mor/Ryde a couple of times. After thinking about this for quite a while, I thought it would make more sense to take my trailer in to Mor/Ryde and have them do the work. The main reason for my decision was their installation procedure, which is critical with how this system is to function. They jack the entire trailer off the ground, remove all nuts and bolts and replace with longer "wet-bolts"' and torque all bolts to 40 ft-lbs. I figured out how to fabricate everything, but was not confident that I could perform the installation as good as they could, plus they have much more experience with this type of work. This is just my unprofessional opinion.