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Old 07-19-2015, 01:25 PM   #1
NobleGypsies
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3791 RD HELP PLEASE! MANY ISSUES!



I would really appreciate help with these questions and need help from ONLY 3791RD owners because our issues do not apply to all models or years.

1. We followed the directions for icemakeer on your Samsung residential refrigerator and turned water valve under sink on and still nothing!

2. I was looking around the RV and I did not find a tire lug to tighten or adjust the nuts on the wheels in case of a flat.

3. We have stayed at about 10 trailer parks and have followed the instructions on teh leveling jacks and whether the slides are in or out the trailer will not level perfectly and leans toward the refrigerator side. I have to manually level it.

4. How do you get the radio to work??

5. We are not getting the back up camera to work. We are only getting red/yellow street lines with a black screen.

6. We left an RV park and usually we make sure the inverter is on for the refrigerator. We drove about 10 hours and pulled over and slept and checked the inverter when we woke and the inverter was off??

Thanks All!

 
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Old 07-19-2015, 01:39 PM   #2
1retired06
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Actually most of your issues are generic and are applicable to many units. For example, lug wrenches are not provided. For example, lippert six point auto leveling is standard on all equipped Montana rigs.
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Old 07-19-2015, 03:15 PM   #3
dieselguy
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Whomever set up the level up to "their version" of level must have missed it a bit ... level your rig manually to your satisfaction and reset the system ... read your manual ... it tells you how. If you didn't get the manual ... download it from the internet. I've seen two units that never got the water line attached to the fridge ... line was simply capped behind the fridge ... pull out the fridge and check for this.
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Old 07-19-2015, 04:25 PM   #4
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If you only have a single battery and possibly even if you have two you probably drained the battery/batteries and the inverter shut off to save what was left. Residential frigs can draw a lot of amps. You don't say what kind of truck you have, but some have to have something done before the charging line on your truck can charge the batteries as you drive. Dodges aren't like that so hopefully someone who has a brand with that issue will be along with the required action.
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Old 07-19-2015, 05:36 PM   #5
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Thank you DQDick and Diesalguy! DQ I have the 2011 Ford F350 6.7 lariat dually w/crewcab longbed 4X4 and it was set up for that...it only lasted about 10 hours I think..

Dieselguy I just watched the DVD about Level jacks and didn't even know we had it.. and it was very helpful!

Thanks again!
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Old 07-20-2015, 04:31 AM   #6
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Do you have a single or double battery.
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Old 07-20-2015, 06:23 AM   #7
NobleGypsies
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Large single
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Old 07-20-2015, 09:32 AM   #8
DQDick
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Most likely not near enough to run all your 12v draws and the frig for any real length of time.
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Old 07-20-2015, 09:49 AM   #9
NobleGypsies
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Dick on this model rig the battery is ONLY for the refrigerator and nothing else
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Old 07-20-2015, 11:14 AM   #10
jlb27537
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OK, you only got one battery. What runs the level up and slides? The 12vdc pump needs 12vdc from somewhere. (battery in the trailer)

With the truck (not running) hooked up to the trailer, trailer NOT plugged in to shore power. Look at the level-Up display and change display to battery voltage display.

Now, start truck and see if the voltage on the display goes up. If it does, OK, the truck is charging the trailer battery. If the voltage does not go up, the truck is not charging the trailer battery.

You have one large battery? OK. What group battery is it? What is the amp hour rating of the battery?

Per the Samsung information the frig has a average annual electrical usage of 594Kw. /365 that is 1.63kw a day, Move the decimal point that is about 163 battery amp hours a day. A bank of 4 GC2 golf cart batteries is about 400-420 amps, that gives you a ability to provide about 200 amp hours per 24 hour period.

Given he only has one (large) battery, we do knot know if the truck is charging the trailer battery, 163/24=7 amps per hour. If he has a single 100 amp hour battery, using 50% drain, that will kill a battery in 7 hours.

Just asking questions to get to the bottom of your questions. Math majors are welcome to help here.

Jim
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Old 07-20-2015, 11:14 AM   #11
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Check how many amps your frig draws, figure an hourly amp draw and then how many amps your battery can store. We have a large solar system with six golf cart batteries and with the other electrical draws we have a residential frig doesn't work for us. You just use a single battery for only that, but I think you'll be surprised at what the amp draw is.
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Old 07-20-2015, 11:40 AM   #12
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Just curious.....if we travel with the power switch in the off position and turn on the inverter, will power reach the fridge? Will the inverter "time out" due to no draw?
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Old 07-20-2015, 01:13 PM   #13
jlb27537
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by chris199

Just curious.....if we travel with the power switch in the off position and turn on the inverter, will power reach the fridge? Will the inverter "time out" due to no draw?
Chris, My '14 3150RL does not have a inverter or residential frig. But when I turn the battery switch OFF the only thing that has power applied to it is the level up system.

I would locate the 12vdc feed to the inverter, turn the battery switch off and see what happens.

OR, not plugged into shore power, battery switch on, turn on frig, should come on. Turn battery switch off, see what frig does. If it stays on, then inverter is not on battery sw.

Most inverters do not have a time out feature, but some have a low battery disconnect feature to protect the inverter from low voltage input.

Realize, for a inverter to provide 120vac it needs a 12vdc input. To provide 5 amps @ 120vac, you need approx 50 amps @ 12vdc. Most inverters are about 93% efficient, the 7% is consumed as heat and fan power. (this is the simple math you can do on your head)

So you can see, to power a frig that uses 7 amps @ 120vac that is a huge draw on a battery bank.

Most folks that buy RV's with the residential frig's have no clue as to the battery draw, nor do the sales folks. I think Keystone figures you are going to going from the house to the lake, 2-3 hours and plug back in.

As Dick mentioned he has a large solar system and a residential frig will not work for them. When we had our pusher, with a decent solar system, we had a meter that tracked amps in and out. We would use about 130-180 amp hours a day with our little 8cf RV frig and the normal TV, Sat, U-line icemaker, Micro wave use and DW hair dryer in the morning. If we were down past 50%, we would start the gen set, the 100A charger would put bulk into the bank and after 30 minutes shut the gen set off. By noon or 2pm we would be back to 100%.

Some really good stuff here:
http://www.bogartengineering.com/

Jim
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Old 07-21-2015, 03:17 AM   #14
mazboy
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I have to jump in here. call lippert if you have any problems with your level up, they will really talk to you.

get another battery.

as for radio, read the instructions. you can download them too.

can't help on the refrig, this is something that is new out there, get with the dealer since it is under warranty.
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Old 07-21-2015, 04:12 AM   #15
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I was told by Keystone that if an RV was made from November thru end of February, the ice maker was not hooked up. I tried pushing and holding the reset switch underneath ice maker and nothing except a click. So then I was told this by Keystone.
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Old 07-21-2015, 08:39 AM   #16
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Chris. your unit has two battery cut off switches like mine. one cuts off battery power to the inverter and is located near the battery. the other is in the convenience area and cuts off most, but not all the other 12 volt systems. If you travel with the battery cut off switch in the off position I believe, from what I have heard from others, that your battery will not get charged from your tow vehicle. you should leave your battery cut off switch on while traveling.
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Old 07-21-2015, 03:03 PM   #17
jlb27537
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A great PDI from a great dealer, who knows nothing how stuff works.

What a shame......Keystone builds a product that is some what complicated, the new owner leaves and has no clue how stuff works.

Hey, the dealer got their money, they are done......
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Old 07-21-2015, 06:46 PM   #18
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Good thread. Most folks don't understand that while the 5-7 amps ac draw is fairly small, multiply that figure by a factor of 10 to understand what is being pulled out of the battery system. And batteries aren't made to handle more than 50% discharge or they will die an early death. One can always run that residential fridge from a small generator sitting in the truck bed IF you have to do long travel days. My advice to the poster is to sit down with an electrical engineer you know and really educate yourself on all the issues going on with using a residential fridge in a trailer and how best to handle all the issues according to how you think you want to travel. An educated rv'r is a happier rv'r. I was an engineer in my former life so I understand all the complexity around this issue. John
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Old 07-21-2015, 07:23 PM   #19
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It is best 2 hook up shore power after you unhook and hook up to shore power before you auto level and also before you put out your slides. I agree with the others and you need to get another battery.
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Old 07-22-2015, 11:27 AM   #20
chris199
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I user shore power 99% of the time for slides and level up. Only exception is when the rig is in storage. I'll plug her into the truck while the truck is running to use the slides (when the rig is level of course). I never run the slides when the rig is not level.

I've run the residential fridge on the inverter from VT to PA (8 hrs) PA to TN (10-12 hrs driving) and from PA to DC (3-4 hrs) with no issues.
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