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Old 05-30-2018, 02:17 PM   #1
Montana3725RL
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Water Heater Issues

Our rig is going on 5 years old, the 10 gallon water heater now only works on gas, the fuse is fine, the power is on but no joy for hot water on electricity.

Anybody else have this problem?
 
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Old 05-30-2018, 02:51 PM   #2
DQDick
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Is the little black switch in the water heater area turned on. Dealers frequently will turn it off when they have it in to work on it or winterize it. If it's not that you need to test the element to see if it's burned out.
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Old 05-30-2018, 04:50 PM   #3
Carl n Susan
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The normal causes for failure on electricity are a burned out element (electric water heat on without water in tank), shorted on/off switch in the heater compartment, or a failed thermostat.

Attached in a troubleshooting manual for the Suburban water heater which should guide you through the process.

Attached Files
File Type: pdf Water Heater Troubleshooting - Suburban V1.3-2.pdf (1.64 MB, 68 views)
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Old 05-30-2018, 05:17 PM   #4
twindman
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Agree with Carl n Susan on everything. Had the same problem. I replaced the reset switch and it was still working only part of the time. Finally had dealer check it and replace the switch whether it was good or not. Dealer said the element was bad. Haven't tried it except for 6 days this spring, but head out for 90 days Monday.
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Old 05-30-2018, 06:24 PM   #5
BB_TX
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Electric side of water heater is s common problem. Previously noted problems have been;
Bad heating element
Bad thermostat/Hi temp cutout
Bad switch on water heater (or turned off)
Bad inside switch
Bad interposing relay (12 vdc to 120 vac)
Loose or bad wire connection ( more than one have found loose neutral wire connection in junction box on back side of water heater)
Tripped circuit breaker (Water heater will be on a 120 vac breaker)

First thing to do is use a voltmeter and check each point in the power string to see where power is and is not. This is assuming you are comfortable troubleshooting live 120 vac.
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Old 05-30-2018, 11:08 PM   #6
jhardenbrook
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Those on off switches go bad after a few years. I’ve replace mine two times. Also replaced temp control switch (on side of tank) twice.
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Old 08-11-2018, 06:54 PM   #7
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My switch didn’t seal against the metal panel it is mounted in. If you replace switch, caulk it in there with acceptable caulk. I also chose to shrink wrap the connectors on the back. When inspecting, also a good idea to check the wires in the junction box that goes to the switch. Mine were totally burned through. The hot and neutral had been taped together after being connnected with wire nuts. Generally a no-no in my experience.
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