Ford letter

[jars]

Nobody has said anything about nitrate and changing of cooling fluid also mention in the letter. They suggest changing radiator coolant at 45000 miles check nitrated every 15000 miles.

Jars Richard E. Smith

[Tom S.]

Is this some kind of test? If it is, I'm failing badly...

[Art-n-Marge]

LOL, there was a recent duplicate post and it just went bye-bye along with my comments are requesting more detail. This post looks like a response to another topic, but I can't figure it out.

What kind of coolant fluid, nitrates for what. change interval of 45,000 sounds like coolant, but my book says don't change it for 100,000, then change every 45,000.

Tom S. - where is the Dawson Peaks Resort? Nice picture. Looks like a very rustic place, but I see you got a hookup of some kind.

I failed too,

[Tom S.]

Art, It's located in Teslin, in the Canadian Province of the Yukon Territories. The owner/operator is also an author who will be glad to fix your lunch, sell you his book and autograph it too. We bought the lunch but skipped the book...

[noneck]

Right...that was my post. I guess I forgot about that one and agree its confusing 45k verses 100k. I'm guessing there is metallic reactant that drives the nitrate levels also suggests there is additive to adjust the level back to normal range.

I am also interested in...does anyone actually do this test regularly, how often, and do you use additive to regulate or just dump some off and replenish with new?

[Charlie]

Richard-
My 7.3 requires engine coolant replacement at 45K miles. In addition it also requires Motorcraft diesel cooling system additive. Each 15K miles there after the additive should be added as necessary to prevent corrosion to the radiator, block and intercooler. It previously had a part #FTW-16, but no part number is now on the container.

As far as the test, it says to use Fleetguard DCA4 Test Strip Kit #CC2602A to determine if recharge is necessary. Ford mechanics have told me that adding 8oz. every 15K miles will hold the PH of the cooling system within specs. I think that most auto parts houses will have standard PH test strips. Otherwise check with parts department at your local Ford dealer. The additive is only available at Ford dealers.

Hope this is the answer to your post.

[Art-n-Marge]

I had a 2004 Ford with the 6.0L and traded for a 2006 6.0L. I am not familiar with this test but I guess I will have to check my manual again. At last check I read to change the coolant at 100,000 miles, then 45,000 thereafter. I don't do this service myself anymore so I hope wherever I take it knows what you are talking about. I do not recall any special testing, but the manual doesn't have much in that regard. I'll look around.

Great topic description Charlie and NICE LOOKING rig. If that's the same 2001 Ford it still looks pretty good!

Tom S. - I've been by that campground a couple of times! LOL. I love that area around Teslin. The city is sleepy but the scenery is gorgeous.

[Trailer Trash 2]

On my 96 Ford I would buy the coolant rejuvinator every other year and get the coolant relpaced on the year. I was told by the dealer that diesels have to have it done or it does something to the motor.
Even though I put in the rejuvinator I still had to replace the radiator at 80K but not from the flushing the tank ruptured at the lower tank of the radiator.

[Charlie]

Yes, same 2001, closing in on 110k miles. Only problem I've had was CPS failure about 65K. Has been a very durable vehicle.

[richfaa]

The letter is a upgrade to 6.0 and 6.4 maint schedule.I now carry in in the truck and will do whatever it recommends as long as we are in warranty.Saw the thing about the coing system. Have no idea what it means but will have it done.

[BB_TX]

I received the letter from Ford also. It states to change the coolant after 105,000 miles and every 45,000 afterward.
For coolent strength/nitrate strength and normal driving, it states "Optional check every 15,000 miles or 600 hours." For "Special operating conditions" (extensive towing, long idle time, etc.) it leaves out the word "optional".

[Rondo]

Is this with Fords only or does it apply to all the TVs with diesels in them? Inquiring mines want to know!

[Trailer Trash 2]

quote:Originally posted by Rondo

Is this with Fords only or does it apply to all the TVs with diesels in them? Inquiring mines want to know!

I cant speek for GM products there cars use a differant anti-freez it turns brown when old and has been known to plug up the radiator when it gels. the Dura Max might use a differint anti-freez as for Dodge same answer, I will call my dealer and ask though.

[8e3k0]

We have diesels that have been worked hard and have 10,000 plus hours on them with the same coolant. The additive is a process that increases your pH of your coolant to insure that it does not attack the cylinder liners, called "pitting". We have used this with great sucess on our older Ford diesels; the John Deere diesels and the International Harvester diesels (Ag).
If you ever have your coolant changed, ensure the tech uses demineralized water for mixing as the majority of time they just use tap water with a hardness level of anywhere from 100 to 200 ppm plus. Guess where all these impurities end up in your engine at high temps? On the cylinder walls causing all kinds of chemical reactions and impeding efficiency.
To conclude: If your cooling system is sealed and is of good quality from day one and never breaks down why tamper with it. Where things go wrong, is when someone tops up the level with inferior coolant or water and that starts the process of breakdown. If you test the coolant for ph and use the additive as directed the coolant will retain it strength and chemical makeup for many years. We have about 15 diesel engines (automotive and Ag) on our farm and we continue to use this process and have never had any liners or cylinders attacked. Ellis

[Tom S.]

I can speak for GM/Chevy. As Art stated, they use a different type of antifreeze that is supposed to last longer. It does last longer but that doesn't mean you can ignore it. This antifreeze is very susceptible to dirt, which causes it to turn brown and eventually plug up the radiator and/or heater core. Dirt can only get in under certain conditions, one of which is a bad radiator cap. So long as you watch the antifreeze color, and it remains orange-red, you should be good to 100,000. Fixing a plugged radiator/heater core usually only involves back flushing, although some unscrupulous repair shops may try to tell you that they need to replace them. The real issues are a) loss of heat in the cab (plugged heater core) or b) loss of cooling capacity (plugged radiator). Also, NEVER mix green antifreeze and red antifreeze as they are not compatible and you will undoubtedly be arrested by the antifreeze police (j/k on the police part).

Having said that, I plan on changing mine every 50,000. Antifreeze is cheap compared to antifreeze related problems.

[Art-n-Marge]

Hmmmm It wasn't me that said "they use different types of antifreeze", but somebody else said it and I agree it's probably true.

I am just wondering about this Ford letter. I have a Ford and have not received any letter regarding these changes. But I moved since I bought it and maybe they don't have my new address. I will be stopping by the dealer to get pricing on rear suspension parts and I'll have to ask about this.

I am pretty good at maintenance and following recommended schedules and just like to stay in the know. My truck is no longer under warranty but that's not the point. I want it to last and want to do what's recommended.

[Tom S.]

My bad Art, it was Don. Duh!

[BB_TX]

Art - There is a Ford Owners web site where you can register and set up your profile by entering you VIN for your truck and see the complete maintenance history if it was done by a Ford dealer. I sometimes look back to see exactly when and at what mileage any work of any kind was done on my truck by my dealer.
You could set that up with your current address and probably get any future mailings from Ford.