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Old 12-16-2019, 07:02 PM   #21
PSFORD99
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Originally Posted by jsb5717 View Post
My short box ram has the B&W ball, which is located about 4" in front of the center of the axle. I'm pretty sure that's the standard installation location for that setup. The Andersen set back puts the center of the ball almost exactly centered over the axle. I don't know what the set up would be like with the rail installation but would likely be similar as even the rails puts the hitch point somewhere slightly in front of the axle.


Most would recommend that turning 90 degrees isn't good for the trailer axles anyway so should be avoided. That said, I haven't been in a situation yet where I couldn't make my turn. I haven't tested the tightest degree of turn I can achieve but it's pretty tight.
I don't ,and never have turned 90 degrees. As said I have turned pretty tight, but I am sure no where near 90. Pretty sure I can't unless I move the slider back .

I know for sure my rail mount Andersen is not centered ,nor forward of the center of the axle, pretty sure just slightly back of center. Will check to see when I put it back in.

You say your gooseneck ball is 4" in front of center, is that one of those offset balls. Looking at my puck system on my 2014 the gooseneck hole looks real close to the center of the axle.
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Old 12-16-2019, 07:04 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by PSFORD99 View Post
I don't ,and never have turned 90 degrees. As said I have turned pretty tight, but I am sure no where near 90. Pretty sure I can't unless I move the slider back .

I know for sure my rail mount Andersen is not centered ,nor forward of the center of the axle, pretty sure just slightly back of center. Will check to see when I put it back in.

You say your gooseneck ball is 4" in front of center, is that one of those offset balls. Looking at my puck system on my 2014 the gooseneck hole looks real close to the center of the axle.

I don't have the puck system so it's entirely a B&W system, all installed and braced under the bed.
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Old 12-17-2019, 03:55 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by PSFORD99 View Post
Thats an option, but is it good to tow with 4" rear of the axle. I can see centered or slightly forward, which I was under the opinion thats where you are supposed to be.

My Reese slider is mounted to the Reese picture frame adapter on the puck system on my Ram, and it puts the kingpin two inches in front of the axle. IMO thats right where its supposed to be, and thats not by accident thats how they figure that adapter frame ,and hitches to mount. I had the same Reese hitch in my Ford Superduty short bed mounted to the standard bed rails, and the hitch was still in the same place two inches forward of the axle . Two different trucks ,same hitch mounted in the same place. I couldn't change that if I wanted too.

I guess my point is it advisable to mount that B&W that far behind the axle. Sure it solves the clearance issue to a point. My Reese slider ,slides back ten inches , that puts it 8" behind the axle. Heck why not leave it there its only 4 more inches then that B&W while towing, whats four inches at that point.
While we may all think that behind the axle isn't "ideal", the new 2020 GM's are 2" behind the axle (as I recall) from the factory...

Maybe it's not as a big a deal we think...
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Old 12-17-2019, 09:18 PM   #24
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While we may all think that behind the axle isn't "ideal", the new 2020 GM's are 2" behind the axle (as I recall) from the factory...

Maybe it's not as a big a deal we think...

I would think to a point no big deal, I am guessing ,but I am about that 2" with the Andersen. IMO I don't want to be any further back. The further back the more you are going to unload the front .
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Old 12-18-2019, 12:48 PM   #25
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Ford made a short bed dually crew cab from around 2000 to late 2008 or early 2009 - give or take a year or two...???

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Old 12-18-2019, 06:11 PM   #26
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Trailer Life 2020 Towing guide
https://www.trailerlife.com/trailer-towing-guides/
Hope this helps
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Old 12-22-2019, 03:41 PM   #27
N1282X
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Why not just get a goose box and be done with it all? all I have is a 5 lbs ball to flip when I want the hitch out of my truck.
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Old 12-22-2019, 04:09 PM   #28
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Others will probably differ on this. My experience has been that a long wheel base, non 4X4 tows much better than a short wheel base 4X4. That does not pertain to DRW's.
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Old 12-22-2019, 05:13 PM   #29
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Why not just get a goose box and be done with it all? all I have is a 5 lbs ball to flip when I want the hitch out of my truck.
I don't have a goose box, but it should still be possible to contact your can with your camper when turned tight enough. It might be way over turned, but it should hit.

With an automatic slider, you will not hit the cab, even when turned 90...
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Old 12-23-2019, 07:24 AM   #30
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I have a crew cab long bed dually and love it. The short bed has a 6' bed and the long bed is 8'. You're only talking 2'. Now, my truck is a daily driver and my only vehicle. So I wanted the extra 2' bed length for my trips to Home Depot and Lowes. You can fit full sheets of plywood (4x8), dry wall, 8ft 2x4's and still close the lift gate. I rather have the extra room and not need it than needing the extra room and not having it. But I decided to installed a 50 gal transfer flow aux fuel tank in my bed so I lost 1 1/2' of bed room.
I have the Reese Elite 25K removable hitch which was the highest weight capacity at the time. Now they have a 26.6K hitch and they made some upgrades to it. It has the under bed rail mounting system. I can remove my hitch and have full use of my bed with no rail in the way.
I don't have to worry about the front cap hitting my cab when backing up. Not that I do but I can go 90+ degrees and still won't hit as long as your hitch is high enough so the pin box clears the bed side rails. It's all about personal preference and how you will be using your truck.
Here's the Reese Elite removable hitch.
https://www.reeseprod.com/products/f...IDATR3FGCmm0Kh
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Old 12-23-2019, 08:59 AM   #31
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short bed dualy

only issue is the gvwr of 14000lbs is only available in a crew cab long box
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Old 12-23-2019, 09:40 AM   #32
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only issue is the gvwr of 14000lbs is only available in a crew cab long box
FYI. I know on my 2012 Silverado, the crew cabs have 400 lbs less payload and towing capacity vs the standard and extended cab models due to the extra weight of the crew cab.
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Old 12-23-2019, 12:24 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by CADman_KS View Post
I don't have a goose box, but it should still be possible to contact your can with your camper when turned tight enough. It might be way over turned, but it should hit.

With an automatic slider, you will not hit the cab, even when turned 90...
Here is a great video I saw today that tells you how to figure if, and where you 5er will hit the cab when you turn:

https://youtu.be/IQQRLcuwZS4

While this is a great explanation, it's actually, much easier than that. Just measure the overall width of your 5er, and divide in half. That's the distance that you need to be behind the cab of your truck if you NEVER want to hit the cab in any situation...
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Old 12-23-2019, 10:23 PM   #34
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You can hit the cab with any combination if you turn sharp enough. Well, I did see a video of one TV that would NEVER hit....an old Volkswagen Beetle with the hitch mounted on the roof. They actually showed it doing a 360 under the overhang.
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Old 12-24-2019, 08:07 AM   #35
CADman_KS
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You can hit the cab with any combination if you turn sharp enough. ...
Good point. I should have added have probably stated it this way:

That's the distance that you need to be behind the cab of your truck if you NEVER want to hit the cab up to 90deg.

I actually have a situation in my yard that I have to turn really tight to get into my shed. Not ideal, but for me, that number is critical, since I have a short box. I have a slider so I don't have to worry about it...
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