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Old 07-12-2012, 02:47 PM   #1
troutchasers
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F350 Oil For Towing

Gentlemen,

Getting ready to change my 2011 F350 6.7 diesel oil prior to towing the DW's CRV on a two axel UHaul from Skagway AK to South Florida. We then pick up the new MOC in IN and drive into the sunset. The Diesel Supplement manual says to use 5w40 for "towing longer than 1000 miles". This would facilitate the use of synthetic oil as dino oil is not made in 5w40. I will not be driving in cold weather (after 35 years in AK, amen!) so I'm wondering if I should still go with the 5w40 or perhaps 15w40? Any thoughts?

BTW, I have usually not done my own oil and gas changes, but Ford has made is so damn easy on these new diesels it just makes sense. I figure I will save over $200 after ordering all the filters online and givin er a go myself. YouTube has some excellent videos on just how easy it has become.

Appreciate any thoughts.

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Old 07-12-2012, 03:10 PM   #2
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I use 5 W 40, Mobil Delvac 1 synthetic. You probably don't need synthetic but there is no question it is better protection especially for a hot turbo. It cost more but for a 50 or $60.000 truck, I think it is cheap insurance.
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Old 07-12-2012, 03:35 PM   #3
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dont forget to get a NON FOAMING oil, I dont know who does your oil changes but my dealer always has a specal for 125.00 OTD.

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Old 07-12-2012, 04:05 PM   #4
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As long as that diesel is under warranty,this is my opinion. put in what FORD tells you to use. If you do your own work, document,document ,document everything you do for maintenance.Keep all your receipts, make sure you buy quality filters and keep to the recommended maintenance schedules. If you have an issue with that motor they will want to see all receipts and records. A replacement could cost $13000 dollars. My son is a service adviser at a large ford dealer and the first thing they look for is maint. history. It will save you a lot of grief if something goes wrong.not trying to scare you but just keep good records.
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Old 07-12-2012, 05:04 PM   #5
Sniperduce
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most walmarts will carry 1 gal jugs of Rotella T Syn in 5w40 and (I prefer) Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel oil in 5w40.
I only use Ford Motorcraft oil and fuel filters.
Good luck.
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Old 07-12-2012, 08:40 PM   #6
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mobil one delvac 5W 40 syn samo all !!!!!
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Old 07-13-2012, 02:05 AM   #7
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Ford manual and my dealer very specific: 5W40 . Towing weights of 13-14K meets the severe usage criteria.
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Old 07-13-2012, 03:36 AM   #8
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Like Sniperduce said use ONLY motorcraft filters.
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Old 07-13-2012, 05:39 AM   #9
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Since I started using Mobil 1 in 1978, I shouldn't need to tell you what I recommend. I do all my own oil changes too, and since we have four vehicles, it can keep me busy. It gives you a chance to look under the vehicle and see what's going on, and what may need attention. Many of your local parts places will also take your old motor oil, so you can dispose of it safely.

Just make sure the oil you use is rated for diesel use!
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Old 07-13-2012, 06:59 AM   #10
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I'm with all the change your own oil guys ... as stated it gets you to looking at things down under. My ole Powerstroke likes Rotella 15-40. 3 jugs at @$13.00 each and a $10 Motorcraft oil filter comes to right at $50. These outfits that want to charge you for oil disposal are a hoot ... they tag you for disposal then sell their waste oil to vendors ... a double profit deal. Nowdays you can take your waste oil to about any Autozone, OReillys, or Advanced Auto Parts store for FREE. Wally World has reusable drain pans that easily hold a diesel engine oil change and are right down handy.
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Old 07-13-2012, 08:37 AM   #11
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I agree with dieselguy. I also added a Fumoto drain valve so I just flip a lever rather than backing out a drain plug. Running one front tire up on a 5 inch ramp gives me clearance to slide a 5 gal paint bucket under the valve. When finished draining just put the lid back on until I get to a parts store to dispose. Only thing I'm on my back for is changing the filter. Jim
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Old 07-13-2012, 08:57 AM   #12
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We are pretty much captive to the local garages here. No Jiffy Lube or chains. My mech quoted me $426 to do oil change, both fuel filters and air filters.

I bought all the filters from dieselfilters.com for $100. Mobile 1 runs about $33 a gallon at Orielly's. Will check Wallmart this afternoon. Bought a reusable drain pan that holds 15 quarts for $14. Had to buy a 1 1/4 half inch drive socket to remove the under engine fuel filter.

Youtube video suggests taking an awl and puching a hole in the oil filter and let it drain before taking off. Topside engine fuel filter is disposable and requires no tools (hand clips) to change. Big thing to remember is to unscrew the bottom fuel filter three turn prior to draining. If you don't it will continue to drain on an on.

I'm going to giver a go. Raised the DW's eyebrows a bit. My father is quoted as telling me as a young boy to get away from that wheelbarrow as we all knew I was not mechanically inclined.
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Old 07-13-2012, 09:32 AM   #13
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Just a reminder, receipts and documentation,just in case...and you will have no trouble.
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Old 07-13-2012, 10:55 AM   #14
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There are a couple things not mentioned in this thread. Please bear with me, as I don't work on Fords so some of this may not apply.

If your oil filter mounts vertically (that means it hangs down and you have to screw it upwards to install the new one), fill the new one with oil before installing it. If it mounts horizontally (sideways) forget about this recommendation.

A new fuel filter creates a air space between the tank and the injectors. GM has a fuel priming pump on top of the filter housing to fill the filter, but there is also a air bleed screw to allow the air to escape. Pump until fuel comes out the bleeder, then make sure you tighten it slightly more than finger tight (it's plastic and will strip easily). To avoid a lot of the priming, I fill the filter with fuel before installing it.

You can drain the fuel from the old filter into your used oil bucket and turn it in at the oil reclamation facility. Diesel is, after all, oil. Some die hard diesel folks even burn their old engine oil by pouring a quart or so in with each full tank of fuel. I do NOT recommend this.

None of this is rocket science.
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Old 07-13-2012, 01:51 PM   #15
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Ford of Ocala charged $300 for oil/filter and fuel filter change. As bad as that is, it's not nearly as bad as $426 that upinAK was quoted.
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Old 07-13-2012, 03:28 PM   #16
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GM has a fuel priming pump on top of the filter housing to fill the filter, but there is also a air bleed screw to allow the air to escape. Pump until fuel comes out the bleeder,

Ford don't have that. On a Ford you turn the key on and wait a few seconds then repeat several times to fill the system with fuel. It's just a different way to do the same job.
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Old 07-15-2012, 09:25 AM   #17
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I have a Fumoto drain valve and simply drain the old oil into the jugs left from my last oil change. I don't spill a drop. I also change my own filters and use Motorcraft. I use Rotella T full synthetic 5W40. I simply cycle the key on without starting the engine about 5 times for about 30 seconds each and it starts right up. This bleeds the air from your fuel lines. You will save money and do a visual check of the underside of your truck at the same time. If anything is starting to develop a small leak you will see it, if you are observant.
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Old 07-16-2012, 03:21 AM   #18
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One thing no one has mentioned: while you are underneath the truck, do a chassis lube. Give anything with a grease fitting some grease!
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Old 07-16-2012, 06:44 PM   #19
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Wal Mart does Oil changes also for 100.00 or so. a friend of mine has a chevy with the diesel and they do his all the time.
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Old 07-17-2012, 01:57 AM   #20
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What grease fittings?? None on my last two Superduties.
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