X-FACTOR QUESTION???? UPDATE

[jackel1959]

I am considering installing the Mor/ryde X-Factor on our rig (2010 3455SA) which has the LRE suspension. I was looking at the Mor-ryde website and their drawing of the system on the advertisement page shows 3 cross members installed. So I called them to ask how many I would need to install and was told 1 to 3, it was my choice. So here is the question for those of you that have installed this system or something similar: How many cross members did you install and is their significant benefit to installing more than just the center one?

r,
Jack

[pineranch]

I installed only the center section. Taking a wait and see approach on the spring hangers. Condidering welding them shut as another member did.
Mike

[stiles watson]

I installed only the middle brace. I made mine for about $40 worth of materials and $50 labor. I used heftier material than Mor/ryde does. You can search my posts for my description under "Someone asked" if you are looking for do-it-yourself ideas.

[boje]

A middle brace was a recall for my unit, and I added a X-Factor to the front. I intended to add one to the rear, but the plumbing from the shower made that impossible.

My theory from browsing all the RV forums is that frames are made to meet the minimum requirements. I would not think beefing up the frame would be a bad thing.

[Jolu]

Jack I installed the three point system on our 3150RL. After crawling around under there it just looked like three cross members would add a lot more lateral support. My choice was the three.
Look closely at your drain pipes under the belly and see if the back cross member will clear the galley pipe. Mine just snugs up against the pipe. So I added a rubber pad. In some cases the rear cross member may need to be installed with the U-channel up with a small notch for the galley pipe to clear. I guess it depends on your model and the plumbing. If you need I can PM you a photo of what I am talking about.
Joe

[8e3k0]

Jack, as we travelled this winter with our friends in a Montana that is twin to ours, we discussed and decided that those cross members were needed especially when making sharp turns on asphalt and/or concrete. (we do this many times when parking). We will be going to all three, but we are still undecided as to the best method for the front and back member mountings. I do not prefer to mount on to the shackle hanger only. I would like to see that member attached to both the frame and the shackle hanger to give that shackle-to-frame more structural strength as those shackle hangers are only about 3/16 material. We will be fabbing our own members and mountings. i hope to get this done late summer when we have the time.

[ratfink11]

All three and wet bolts.

[sailer]

I used only the center X factor but then I welded up the spring hangers and that was a bigger item than the X factor. if you weld up the spring hangers use 1/4" stock and brace them up to the frame with a 6" gusset also. sailer

[pbahlin]

As someone who has frame damage from this very issue, here's my take on it.

The weakest link in the standard system is the Moryde equalizer box. The second weakest point is the outboard spring hanger brackets.

The Moryde box is a problem because it provides about 6 inches of moment arm from the point where the (two) inboard spring ends hang, to the flange of the eye beam. Every pound of lateral force on the spring ends becomes a half foot pound of torque applied to the I-beam flange. I-beam flanges are NOT intended to take twisting moments. I know this is the weakest point because that's what happened to mine. Both boxes are bent outward. One is currently about an inch from my tires.

The outboard spring ends are much closer to the flange, maybe an inch and a half and they are not rubber mounts. The fact that they are not rubber is a distinct advantage. Lateral force on these guys are not going to result (at least not easily) in a twisting force to your I-beam flange because in order to twist the flange the spring end would have to twist too. So the most likely way these ends will fail is to simply crack from excessive side forces.

In the equalizer box you have rubber mounts. So the box can transmit twist to the flange without necessarily twisting the spring end. The spring moves side ways while the spring stays horizontal but it twists the rubber as it moves. In mine the rubber has failed due to the twisting it has experienced. Imagine a horizontal spring end, twisted rubber mounts, and a tilted box. That's what I have.

If I was trying to minimize the expense to beef this thing up I would go for the middle bar as a minimum. Then I would beef up each mounting point (inboard and outboard) with gussets from flange to web on both sides of the I-beam. Lastly I would do something (not sure just what) to reinforce the outboard hanger brackets as I think these are too thin for the loading and punishment of the bolt.

Do it in that order if you are strapped for cash. But do something.

[nowinter]

I had MOR/RYde install the x-Factor last year and contemplated which of the three braces would take the worst or most significant loading or abuse. I spoke to Ben at MOR/Ryde and he indicated he sees most damage at the rear spring bracket and then the front bracket. He did not indicate if they were LRE or standard middle supports. Probably best to do all three because every situation is so different.

[BirdingRVer]

We had Mor\Ryde install all three and wet bolts. When we passed through Elkhart last October.

[jackel1959]

Thanks to all of you for your timely and informative responses!!! As usual the MOC comes through again

Joe,
I crawled under the rig yesterday and was looking to see if I could install all 3 without interference from plumbing or anything else. It looks like I should be good to go so I will probably be ordering this week.

Ellis,
I will be interested to see what you come up with especially the mounting solution for the front and rear members.

r,
Jack

[Parts Ed]

I crawled under mine yesterday to see what king of suspension system we have and the Trail-Air Equalizer!!

[drsmart]

Hello Jack. I had two installed, fore and aft. The spring hangers appear to be lite and the cross beams should prevent movement of these brackets during tight turns. The MorRyde LRE in the center position is much heavier construction. I also imagined having to open or remove the under belly some day and felt three X-factor assemblies would create quite an obstacle if say a holding tank needed replacing. Might even require removal of the beams. Hopefully that never happens.

Dsve

[stiles watson]

Dave, for your consideration: It is not the beefy Mor/ryde equalizer bracket that is at issue. It is the attachment of the bracket to the frame. The frame gets twisted so that the Mor/ryde brackets do not hang straight. Rather they twist the bottom flange of your support I beam that they are welded to. That is why the center brace is the key brace. As pbahlin said, the middle beam is the minimum additional support needed.

[Ozz]

What Stiles said..

[dieselguy]

Yeah ... what Ozz said that Stiles said ...
I've owned 3 Montanas, a 2000 2850RK, a 2005 2980RL, and now my 2011 3150RL. All have had the same outboard spring hangers and center hanger up to my current unit which has the center MorRyde bracket. Although not looking like much, the standard hangers never gave me any trouble ... the extra 8" of drop on the center MorRyde hanger that I now have caused me enough concern to fab my own XFactor for the center only. Now the nylon bushings in those spring hangers is another story ...

[drsmart]

Thanks Stiles. I went this route after reading about several spring hangers and/or bolts breaking. Has anyone had a MorRyde LRE assembly break away from the frame. I would have thought that the larger plate area of the LRE contacting the frame would provide more weld contact. I can understand the longer drop of the LRE creating additional leverage during a turn leading to more torque transferred to the frame. We've just completed a 5000 mile trip down south and back. When I'm back at the trailer, I'll have a look to see how the three sets of hangers made out. I may have to re-visit this and add a third X-factor at the LRE.

[stiles watson]

You asked if anyone had the LRE break away from the flange. That is not what seems to happen. This whole interest got started when the LRE and RE equalizers were becoming torqued out of correct alignment under severe conditions. Only then did anyone even think about an X-factor brace. It was a response to the frame twisting events.

[drsmart]

We've been travelling and hadn't kept up on the forum. Just read the post by pbahlin about the spring equalizer box being twisted. The photos tell it all. Not keeping up on the MOC can be detrimental. It's good to be regular. That must be what my doctor meant. How did he know about this forum?