Disk Brakes

[dmacy]

I just upgraded my Monty to disk brakes. I used Kodiak brakes. Some points for those of you considering it. I used a Brakerite actuator. To do this you need to run a two wires to the break away switch. I ran two new wires to the switch under the front panel by the pin box. To use a factory OEM controller there is an add on box you need to install. Also you need to connect the blue wire from the in cab controller. I mounted the actuator in the front battery compartment with a bracket I made. The other major hassle is running the brake lines. The worst was mounting the axle lines. I talked to Dexter and they don't want the axle drilled. I decided to use 3" muffler clamps to secure the lines. I will follow up with some pics. After I was done I put the wheels back on and the next day I had liquid dripping sown the bottom of the rotors. Upon investigation I found the the tire covers hold moisture. It was very damp out and condensation formed on the rotors. This is just a caution for those of you that use tire covers. There is no way for the condensation to escape from the top of the cover. I have been using them for some time and never noticed the problem.

[dieselguy]

I applaud you for doing your own work and hope to see photos of your project. Way too many in society today think the only person that can competently work on equipment is a "certified tech". I've had sorry experience with the certified techs whose picture and credentials are proudly diplayed upon a wall at your dealership. That's why I also do my own work unless I just flat don't have the equipment to accomplish the task at hand. You're right about the worst part of installing disk brakes ... forming and running the lines is the hardest part other than paying for all the items that go along with this brake conversion ... Ha!

[Tom S.]

I think I might be tempted to replace the muffler clamps with some heavy duty wire ties. If the clamp is too tight, it will collapse or pinch the line, and if it's not tight enough, it could loosen up and fall off. You could also see galvanic corrosion between the clamp and the line if they are made from different material. Just my thoughts. Congratulations on saving yourself a ton of money and you'll love the disk brakes over the drums.

[davidaf]

On the Jeep Forums they have build parties where everybody comes over and Mods Jeeps. Sounds like I need to host a build party to put disk brakes on my Montana .

Good job, certainly on my wish list.

[WaltBennett]

Sounds like something I may want to look into doing myself! I'd suggest outdoor rated zip ties (wider ones) to hold the break lines. If you put them about a foot or two apart and check them once or twice a year, they should be good and won't cause any sort of corrosion. Can you share how much the whole thing cost? And don't forget to post some pictures!

[pineranch]

I have been thinking about going to disk brakes. My concern is if the spring suspension system will handle the increased torque?
Mike

[7.3Ford]

Check out YouTube on Disc Brake Conversion. Looks pretty easy.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ADzms2F5cfk

[dmacy]

Here is the link to the pics. All bolts, screws, and line clamps are stainless. Hose brackets are also stainless.

http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/dmacy/library/

[7.3Ford]

Thanks for sharing.

[dmacy]

Just looked at my post. WaltBennett asked how much it cost. I bought the parts from different suppliers so as to save money. Mine is a little different than most because I have hub piloted 17.5 wheels with 5/8 studs. This is an 8,000 lbs set up on 7,000 lbs axles. The caliper mounting brackets are different as well as the rotors. This all increased the cost somewhat. I am sure that it could be done cheaper on a standard set up. I figure my cost was about $1,500. Any way sorry I didn't get back with the cost earlier.

Dave