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07-12-2008, 12:45 PM
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#21
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: McKinney
Posts: 7,167
M.O.C. #6433
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by snfexpress
BB_TX - please share the procedures. Always good to know.
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Will do. I plan to do it this coming week. Will let you know how it goes.
__________________
Bill & Patricia
Riley, our Golden
2007 3075RL (recently sold, currently without)
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07-14-2008, 06:29 AM
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#22
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: McKinney
Posts: 7,167
M.O.C. #6433
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Well, I cleaned and reseated the seal and it seems to have corrected the problem. I could see the seal around the left side of the bottom of the bowl, but not the right side, so I thought the seal had slipped. After taking it apart, I found that it would be almost impossible for the seal to slip. Apparently the top part of the toilet had slipped a little from the bottom part. The top part just sits on the bottom part and is held in place by a clamp around the two. No surprise it would slip with all the bouncing and vibration that goes on.
To take it apart, I removed a hose clamp and the water hose going to the top part (in the rear) and the large clamp holding the top part to the bottom part. Then you can lift the top part off. It is very light weight. Where the top part sits on the bottom part is a seal holder and the seal itself. I removed both, cleaned both, and lubed the seal with Pam spray as instructed by Sealand. The seal did not appear to have any damage of any kind. I put it all back together recentering the top part on the bottom part so that the seal did not show at all around the hole. It appears that it is now holding water OK.
Be sure the water is off before you start.
All in all a very simple fix. Took maybe 30 minutes and I was not hurrying. Thankfully there was no odor, even when I opened the flush ball.
__________________
Bill & Patricia
Riley, our Golden
2007 3075RL (recently sold, currently without)
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07-14-2008, 05:50 PM
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#23
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: San Jose
Posts: 200
M.O.C. #8250
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Wayne, you talk about tightening the clamp. How do you get to the clamp. Are you removing the bowl to do all this and how do you remove the bowl. I have the same problem, but my Monty is in the storage yard now and I don't remember seeing bolts come up through the floor like a house toilet.
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07-21-2008, 09:20 AM
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#24
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Tonawanda
Posts: 551
M.O.C. #3662
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Got my new kit in the mail today.They were real good about it
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07-21-2008, 09:30 AM
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#25
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Winfield
Posts: 7,327
M.O.C. #6846
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Grooving granpa,
If your toilet is like mine the clamp that I tightened is directly behind the bowl. You don't have to remove it, it is just like a large radiator clamp that requires a flat bladed screwdriver to tighten. I did this one time and the toilet has been holding water since. I also adopted the practice of letting the foot flush slam back upwards as others have mentioned. Knock on wood it has been holding water for over a year now (Of course by saying this I have probably ensured leakage again!!!)
Bingo
__________________
Bingo and Cathy - Our adventures begin in the hills of WV. We are blessed by our 2014 3850FL Big Sky (previous 2011 3750FL and 2007 3400RL) that we pull with a 2007 Chevy Silverado Classic DRW CC dually.
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07-22-2008, 01:54 AM
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#26
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Morgantown
Posts: 78
M.O.C. #8173
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I have replaced the seal on my Sealand, Model 250, three times. It will hold water for a couple of months and start leaking again. When the ball slides closed, it rolls the seal back allowing water to seep out. I am convinced this is a design flaw and am planning on replacing the toilet. Guess the toilet will go in the dumpster like the Apollo microwave.
Interesting note, I went to the Sealand web site, thinking I might get some help from them, and could not find any reference to the Model 250.
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