Close call!!!

[rldriver]

The only reason for this posting is a reminder to all that you need to check the Park post before you plug in your RV, and here is another reason to do it.

Our schedule has been to spend about 3 weeks with one of our daughters to help out when the new baby comes this week. Because they live and work at a youth Christian camp in Washington and they have a spot where we can hook up 20 amp next to there house it has worked fine in the past.

Our kids convinced the park to run a 30 amp plug next to where we will set up so we can run the AC and do what we need to do with a little more power. Last week I received a text from the kids with a picture of the new box and a message "30 amp ready to go".

We arrived here yesterday and while setting up I decided to check out the box before hooking up. Was I ever surprised to find that they screwed up and ran 220vac to the plug.

Like I said check out that box before you ever plug into a power outlet.

It's all fixed and we are running the AC on full as it's expected to reach a record 100 deg here today.

Happy camping,
Dick

[Bill-N-Donna]

Question, when they wired it up and it was wired for 220 was it still wired with the plug that you would use on a 30 amp? If so that would be scary!

[richfaa]

absolutly... That is why we plug in the PT-50 and let it check out the pole before we plug it into the camper. Thta would have fried the PT-50C. The PT 50 -C is not cheap but neither is the camper. Close call. lucky you found it..

[rldriver]

quote:Originally posted by Bill-N-Donna

Question, when they wired it up and it was wired for 220 was it still wired with the plug that you would use on a 30 amp? If so that would be scary!

Bill, that's exactly what he did. 220 vac on a 120 vac 30 amp plug.

[MAMalody]

I am in WA. Where are you? You signature line lists the Columbia Basin?

[Tom S.]

OK, help me out here... I thought the 30 Amp was/is 220 volt, as in two 110 lines rated at 15 amps each. I'm obviously missing something - someone please help!

[ols1932]

quote:Originally posted by Tom S.

OK, help me out here... I thought the 30 Amp was/is 220 volt, as in two 110 lines rated at 15 amps each. I'm obviously missing something - someone please help!

No, 30-amp power is 110-120 volt. You only have one line. You may have three wires, but one is hot, one neutral, and one ground.

Orv

[rldriver]

quote:Originally posted by MAMalody

I am in WA. Where are you? You signature line lists the Columbia Basin?

Mike, we are at Miracle Ranch in Wauna Washington, near Purdy between Gig Harbor and Port Orchard. Where are you guys?

Dick

[Tom S.]

quote:Originally posted by ols1932

No, 30-amp power is 110-120 volt. You only have one line. You may have three wires, but one is hot, one neutral, and one ground.

Orv

Ah Ha! So then the 30 amp to 50 amp adapter feeds the 110 to both sides of the trailer panel?

[BB_TX]

quote:Ah Ha! So then the 30 amp to 50 amp adapter feeds the 110 to both sides of the trailer panel?

That is correct. With the 50 amp, you get two separate feeds with 50 amps each. With the 30 amp, you get the one 30 amp feed going into two circuits.

[simonsrf]

Dick,

You'll have to show me the procedure for testing the pedestal.

Do you use ah ohm meter?

[NCFischers]

Robbie,
I posted this last week on a different thread. I think this is what you are looking for. This is done with a multimeter.

It's pretty easy and foolproof. I hope that I can explain this so it's understood. First, if you take a piece of paper and draw two diagrams. These will look like your 30 and 50 amp outlets. The 30 amp will have 3 slots at 2 (hot), 10 (neutral) and 6 o'clock (ground). The 50 amp will have slots at 12 (neutral), 3 (hot), 6 (ground), and 9 o'clock (hot).

First the 30 amp. Take the two leads from your meter. They will usually be color coded black and red. With AC current it makes no difference how you use them. Set the meter on AC current (some meters will set themselves automatically). Put one lead in the 10 o'clock slot and one in the 2 o'clock. The meter should read about 110 to 126 volts. Now take the 10 o'clock lead and insert it in the 6 o'clock leaving the 2 where it is. The reading should be the same. If it is, you have good power.

Now the 50 amp. Insert the leads in the 3 and 6 o'clock slots. The meter should read about 228 to 242 volts. Leave the 9 o'clock in the slot and move the 3 to the 6 position and then to the 12 position. Both times the reading should be about 110 to 126 volts. Now put the lead back in the 3 o'clock slot and move the 9 to the 6 and then to the 12 position. Again, the reading should be about 110 to 126 volts. If it is, you have good power.

When you buy a meter, it doesn't have to be expensive but the metal tips on the leads should be the longest ones you can find. Sometimes, the 30 and 50 amp outlet contacts are set back in the plastic and are a little hard to make contact with. You might have to wiggle the leads a bit to make contact. If the readings you get are a couple of volts higher or lower it's not a big deal.

This will only tell you if you have good power at the pedestal. Some sort of surge protection is still highly recommended. I hope this is clear enough. If not, please feel free to let me know and I'll try to clarify.
As long as you only touch the insulated parts of the leads, you'll be safe.

Make sure the circuit breaker is in the on position in the pedestal when you check power and then turn it off to plug in your shore power. Then turn it back on. This will prevent any sparking at the outlet when you are inserting the cord.
Jim

[simonsrf]

Jim,

Sorry, don't read all the posts.

Just printed out your explanation and will give it a try next time we plug into park power.

Thank you, great explanation.