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03-01-2006, 05:49 AM
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#1
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Weatherford
Posts: 1,383
M.O.C. #9
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Water Pump Won't Work
It worked last time out last year but not this time. It makes a noise (much quieter than before, though). Before I pull out the volt meter I have a question. If my auxilary (TT) battery is weak (or dead) would that do it? What if I were plugged in but the battery is bad - could that do it? This may be a good excuse to get the latest, greatest, and quietest but I really don't want to spend the $$$$ - I'd rather buy gasoline !!
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03-01-2006, 06:13 AM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Wetumpka
Posts: 4,936
M.O.C. #1105
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This may sound silly but we thought ours was broken one time and it was because we didn't have enough water in the tank to get it going. Ran quietly without enough water.
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03-01-2006, 06:20 AM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Weatherford
Posts: 1,383
M.O.C. #9
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Filled it 1/4 full - no pumpin' goin' on !!
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03-01-2006, 06:37 AM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Tipton
Posts: 3,646
M.O.C. #191
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You would never know I am married to an ole retired electrician, cause I cannot always remember,
but, isn't that water pump 12 volt, aka battery driven??
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03-01-2006, 08:23 AM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Campbell River
Posts: 970
M.O.C. #4976
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Did you prime the pump ?
Ours won't pull water from the tank until I open a tap some where
in the trailer so the air can be pushed out of the pipes to let the water in.
But for sure you will need a 12 v power source, battery or converter.
Take Care
J & D
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03-02-2006, 11:05 PM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Weatherford
Posts: 1,383
M.O.C. #9
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Opened the taps and yesterday used booster cables to parallel another battery - same problem. I think something's stopped up or just broken!! Before I spend $$$ I'll check the voltage at the pump, take the hoses off and see what's going on "incoming" and "outgoing", look for stopped up filter screens, and reverse the wiring to make it run backwards to maybe unclog it. Then I'll take it out and check the impeller and then probably go buy that upgrade at Camping World. This is so much fun !!
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03-03-2006, 12:23 AM
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#7
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Loganville
Posts: 476
M.O.C. #5314
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Vanman, one thing I found with my unit and the pump, it would not pump water, found the by-pass valve was open a little and letting air into the line. Check the by-pass valve and make sure it is closed. Hope this cures this problem.
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03-03-2006, 12:44 AM
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#8
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Weatherford
Posts: 1,383
M.O.C. #9
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rvfirefighter, What bypass valve - the one at the water heater ?
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03-03-2006, 12:46 AM
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#9
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Loganville
Posts: 476
M.O.C. #5314
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Vanman, the valve is the one you use to winterize the unit, mine is underneath the sink, it goes to the pump. You use it to pump anti-freeze throughout the system.
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03-03-2006, 12:59 AM
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#10
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Weatherford
Posts: 1,383
M.O.C. #9
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Mine's a 2000 - I'm not sure I have one, but I'll look. There is a "pigtail" off one of the lines from the pump that just has a cap on it - that may have been their first attempt but I don't think so. The previous owner tried to install an electric instant water heater and then gave up. He cut the electric wire off and it looks like that "pigtail" was probably originally longer and connected to the heater.
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03-03-2006, 05:44 AM
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#11
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Riverside
Posts: 223
M.O.C. #3237
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VanMan,
Just in case you haven’t checked for this yet, be sure there isn’t a kink in the hose attached to the pump. I had very low water pressure in my unit and found that the installer put a piece of flexible water hose from the hard plastic water line to the pump outlet and kinked it. I replaced the kinked section with a longer piece adding a 1 foot diameter loop to isolate the pump vibration. So far it’s much quieter and I have good pressure and volume throughout.
Ken
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03-03-2006, 06:14 AM
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#12
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Loganville
Posts: 476
M.O.C. #5314
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Vanman have you solved your problem yet. Just check and make sure their is no air gettting into the pump. That will make the pump quit pumping water. Hope it is something simple.
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03-03-2006, 11:01 AM
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#13
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Forney
Posts: 236
M.O.C. #5206
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Might try getting most of the air out of the trailer lines with the City water supply line through your water hose. This helps alot when you have a weak pump.
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03-07-2006, 02:24 AM
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#14
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Weatherford
Posts: 1,383
M.O.C. #9
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Problem solved !! (maybe). We took a little weekend trip a couple of weeks ago and came back with a list of needed repairs. I've been fighting the infamous "leaking galley tank" problem (3 tries to finally get it fixed). One of those tries I had the pump on while the city water was also on. When done I forgot and left the pump on for an hour or so (no faucets open). When I realized it was on, I turned off the "city water" and lo and behold it works!! I suppose there was just too much air in the system. Thanks for all the advice !!
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03-07-2006, 03:08 AM
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#15
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Belvidere
Posts: 1,834
M.O.C. #185
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Just to make sure - your should have two valves that need to be open to the correct positions for normal water pressure and operations. The 1st valve is the one for winterizing your water system and the 2nd is the one for bypassing the water heater. As stated previously if these are not completely closed/open appropriately you could have low water pressure on the hot water and/or cold water side. The 1st valve would definitely give you low pressure from your pump if it was not completely closed
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03-07-2006, 05:29 AM
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#16
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Weatherford
Posts: 1,383
M.O.C. #9
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We have a 2000 TT - I'm not sure I have the winterizing valve. Where would I look besides next to the pump ?
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