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Old 08-31-2011, 02:57 PM   #1
noneck
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Shackles 101

At the request of fellow MOC member I'm posting this for those DIYer's and am open to comments on how to improve on this procedure.

1. Park trailer on level location (preference is paved/blacktop) but as shown can be done in a gravel spot.
2. Prep stilt points, fore and aft of spring end spring hangers with a 2x6 laid flat on ground...make long enough to reach under adjacent axle for place to set jack later.
3. Run up front trailer jacks to near maximum lift point...be careful not hit full extension.
4. Place hydraulic jack out-board of stilt point and using blocking 2x4 that reaches across to spring hanger, jack up trailer till front wheel just clears ground (you can spin that tire).
5. Measure distance from 2x6 to 2x4 and cut 6x6 to this length and install, lower hydraulic jack and remove.
6. Lower trailer leveling jack until trailer returns to near level.
7. Install hydraulic jack out-board of rear stilt point and using blocking 2x4 that reaches across to spring hanger, jack up trailer till rear wheel just clears ground (again you can spin the tire).
**Ok...you now have the side suspended and ready to pull hardware!
8. Pull tires
9. Using hydraulic jack slightly lift first axle and place a block to hold it at this elevation.
10. Move hydraulic jack to other axle and lift it slightly...you should block it as well (I don't trust hydraulics when working under all that weight).
11. Pull the shackle bolts and center piece...
**When installing new heavy duty parts;
a. Put zerks towards middle of trailer (keeps them safer from tire blow-outs).
b. All wet bolts should be tested for clear grease path by operating grease gun on them.
c. Align the three single bolts you install fore, center, and aft so the bore hole is horizontal to prevent trailer weight from impeding grease gun application.
d. Remove the plastic leaf spring eye hole sleeves.
e. Install the replacement bronze spring eye hole sleeves...be sure to pre-lube the eye hole and sleeve as they are soft.
12. Install new parts using the hydraulic jack to manage the axle height till the opening aligns, one side at a time...manage the bolts till they are fully set, you can use a 3/8 short extension, drive side will sit over zerk and you can tap the end of extension this will keep from hurting the zerk.
13. Using a torque wrench set 50 lb-ft set the nut torque.
14. Grease the zerks...and then have a cold one cause you deserve it!

Pics (note this was long ago and zerk orientation is wrong)


This is my current leaf spring replace and zerks have been flipped.

 
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Old 08-31-2011, 05:05 PM   #2
dieselguy
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Good write up and photos ... I'd hook the fiver to your truck and just use your hydraulic jacks to do the lifting. It takes about 1500+ lbs off the fiver (pin weight) and makes a solid attachment point in case of tragedy while jacking.
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Old 08-31-2011, 07:28 PM   #3
Trailer Trash 2
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thanks for the pictures noneck, what was the ram used for? will I need one of them to do the job?
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Pulling a 2004, 2980 RL an oldie but goodie.
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Old 08-31-2011, 07:37 PM   #4
bigmurf
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Makes me feel bad that I didn't use all those tools, only a bottle jack.
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Old 09-01-2011, 03:06 PM   #5
noneck
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I bought that ram long ago from Harbor Freight and just had to use it... I was just looking on the web and found this write up too... http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f6...pics-9839.html
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