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09-10-2009, 11:05 PM
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#21
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Cedar Rapids
Posts: 4,876
M.O.C. #1944
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If I remember what the Dexter Rep told me, yes, the bearings should be checked annually or every 12,000 miles, whichever comes first.
Orv
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09-10-2009, 11:18 PM
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#22
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Waterford
Posts: 3,693
M.O.C. #7500
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Yup - the last line on the link says: Regular inspection is still recommended.
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09-11-2009, 04:43 AM
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#23
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Oceanside
Posts: 20,028
M.O.C. #20
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Tom S.
If they are like the ones on our 06, you don't need to repack them. There is a rubber cover on the outside of the hub that when removed has a grease fitting (called a zerk) behind it. Stick a grease gun on it and pump until you see the grease coming out. The hub is set up so the grease travels through a hole in the center of the hub to the back bearings. It is forced through the back bearings into the hub and out to the front bearings, where it is forced though until you can see it squishing (technical term?) out. The hubs come from the factory with only the bearings greased, so the first time you use the zerk and a grease gun, you will pump a lot of grease in there to fill up the void. Mine ended taking about one and a half tubes. For what it's worth, I used synthetic grease, but that's just a personal preference.
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Whoa! I don't mean to slam anyone so please don't take it that way. I just don't want anyone having problems.
DO NOT put more than two squirts of grease in those zerks. Two squirts per year. This is from our dealer's service manager and the Keystone Service Center folks. Those zerks are not used to change the grease in the bearings. They are to be used only to replenish. If you put very much grease in there it will push grease past the seals and into the brake cavity where you will get grease on the drum and/or shoe surfaces. Then you have no braking in that wheel. The extra grease will not only squeeze past the rubber zerk cover but also past the rear seal.
Over the years there have been quite a few reports in this forum of brake problems from overgreasing through that zerk.
Here's is an animation of how the addition of grease works. This I got from either the Dexter or Al-KO site (can't remember which).
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09-11-2009, 07:13 AM
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#24
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Waterford
Posts: 3,693
M.O.C. #7500
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But Steve, the problem is they come from the factory only with grease on the bearings. As your illustration shows, it takes a lot of grease to reach the front bearings. Two pumps will never get it there. If they came full from the factory, I would agree, but they don't - at least mine didn't.
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09-11-2009, 09:28 AM
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#25
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Sunshine
Posts: 1,445
M.O.C. #538
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I just turn the wheels and give it two pumps and then pull the outer bearings and pack them. To much of a pain to pull the hubs off.
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09-11-2009, 10:02 AM
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#26
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Oceanside
Posts: 20,028
M.O.C. #20
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Tom, mine were full from the factory. Two squirts and it was squeezing grease out. If yours were not full I can see why it would take quite a bit to fill them up. I suspect that's an anomaly, though. My guess is Dexter and Al-Ko are the culprits and the axle assemblies are supposed to arrive at Keystone full and ready to mount to the frame. At the factory tours we've seen the axles with hubs and brakes all ready to go.
I just didn't want someone reading about this for the first time thinking they should go pump a lot of grease into those hubs. They might want to check to make sure they're not empty before making that decision.
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09-11-2009, 12:23 PM
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#27
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Waterford
Posts: 3,693
M.O.C. #7500
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Steve, then a couple hits make sense. It figures though that I'd get the screwed up one. Pretty much the story of my life!
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09-11-2009, 01:04 PM
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#28
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Englewood
Posts: 3,095
M.O.C. #164
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by sreigle
Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Tom S.
If they are like the ones on our 06, you don't need to repack them. There is a rubber cover on the outside of the hub that when removed has a grease fitting (called a zerk) behind it. Stick a grease gun on it and pump until you see the grease coming out. The hub is set up so the grease travels through a hole in the center of the hub to the back bearings. It is forced through the back bearings into the hub and out to the front bearings, where it is forced though until you can see it squishing (technical term?) out. The hubs come from the factory with only the bearings greased, so the first time you use the zerk and a grease gun, you will pump a lot of grease in there to fill up the void. Mine ended taking about one and a half tubes. For what it's worth, I used synthetic grease, but that's just a personal preference.
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Whoa! I don't mean to slam anyone so please don't take it that way. I just don't want anyone having problems.
DO NOT put more than two squirts of grease in those zerks. Two squirts per year. This is from our dealer's service manager and the Keystone Service Center folks. Those zerks are not used to change the grease in the bearings. They are to be used only to replenish. If you put very much grease in there it will push grease past the seals and into the brake cavity where you will get grease on the drum and/or shoe surfaces. Then you have no braking in that wheel. The extra grease will not only squeeze past the rubber zerk cover but also past the rear seal.
Over the years there have been quite a few reports in this forum of brake problems from overgreasing through that zerk.
Here's is an animation of how the addition of grease works. This I got from either the Dexter or Al-KO site (can't remember which).
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Steve this is what I have been told by two RV tech 1 or 2 pumps only I agree the preasure will blow the seal have been doing this since 2003 no problem
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09-14-2009, 05:35 PM
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#29
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Oak Harbor
Posts: 1,530
M.O.C. #2471
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by dandt
Would You take it to a Montana dealer or could I trust a tire dealer? I have A Les Schwab I was thinking of using. Thanks for your input. Dave
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Dave,
I have taken my previous trailers (Trail-Lite & Mountaineer) to Les Schwab. They can do the bearings with no problem and they stand behind their work. They will inspect and readjust the brakes too.
Jack
__________________
Previous:2004 Mountaineer 325FKBS,2010 Montana 3455SA Now:2018 Bighorn 3575EL (SOB's ) Res. Fridge,W/D,Disc Brakes,Water Softener,Dish Tailgater PRO,LioN Batts, several mods.
2021 RAM 3500 Laramie.... "LOADED", 4x4, SB H.O. 6.7L, Aisin Trans, PullRite Super Glide Hitch, 52 Gallon Titan Fuel Tank.
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09-16-2009, 05:29 AM
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#30
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: lebanon
Posts: 466
M.O.C. #1977
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The purpase of repacking the bearings is to get rid of the old grease, check the bearings, boxcard. cleans the dirt out of the drums, check lining and check the magnets to see that they still work. As Gary Wheeler pointed out at the Rally at Seven Feathers, why would you pump freah grease on top of old. Is it not like taking a bath and putting the dirty ssocks back on. I know we all want to save work, but I feel this a shortcut we should not be taking for safety reasons.
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05-25-2010, 04:42 PM
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#31
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Livingston
Posts: 66
M.O.C. #646
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My '05 Big Sky mostly sits throughout the year and we tow it for two week each year. After a recent trip, I noticed that one of the wheel hubs was hot compaired to the other three. I plant to repack all the bearings and check. Has anybody had this problem and did it do any damage or am I catching it in time?
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05-26-2010, 04:24 AM
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#32
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Highlands Ranch
Posts: 464
M.O.C. #3477
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Speaking of brake adjustment.............can someone tell me, when manually adjusting, does the star wheel go down (basically up with your hand)to tighten as seen thru the adjustment hole?
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05-26-2010, 02:57 PM
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#33
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Williamston
Posts: 631
M.O.C. #9432
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Mine is the reverse of what you said on both sides.
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05-26-2010, 03:07 PM
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#34
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Murrieta
Posts: 5,816
M.O.C. #9257
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Regarding blowing out the rear seal, when greasing the zerks, use the hand style of grease gun. These use less pressure to insert grease into the bearings.
The biggest problem with grease techs is they are in a hurry and use the big pressurized grease gun. I have read several places this is a no-no to use on the EZ-lube system. The pressure is too strong and can blow out the rear seal. If you saw the diagrams posted earlier, the incoming grease filler is very thin and a powered grease gun would certainly shoot grease pretty hard at the rear seals.
I use a hand grease gun and usually do 2 or three squirts every 3-6 months. But my rig mostly sits and is used for short 3-5 day trips every 1-2 months.
Regarding having it done. If you go to a service place that does wheel bearings (RV service, tire service stores, etc.) and you mention you have EZ-Lube systems and ask "Do you service EZ-lube systems and is there any considerations for it?" and they look puzzled, lost, or quiet, then go somewhere else.
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05-27-2010, 05:39 AM
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#35
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Waterford
Posts: 3,693
M.O.C. #7500
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by w4nfr
My '05 Big Sky mostly sits throughout the year and we tow it for two week each year. After a recent trip, I noticed that one of the wheel hubs was hot compaired to the other three. I plant to repack all the bearings and check. Has anybody had this problem and did it do any damage or am I catching it in time?
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If it was noticeably hotter (more than a few degrees) I'd replace the bearings. Cheap insurance.
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05-27-2010, 12:43 PM
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#36
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: corning
Posts: 694
M.O.C. #6635
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Yup. If noticeable warmer, change it out. It doesn't take much to cause damage.
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