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Old 01-07-2019, 02:43 PM   #1
awheeler
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Question about Anode Rod

I went to change out the anode rod today as it has been 10 months since I last changed it. The rod I took out looks great! Very little deterioration. The first one I changed out after 6 months of use and there was very little of the rod left. The only differences are we have been away from the limestone water and I replaced the one that came in the rig with a much better/higher quality rod.
What is your take on the difference? How often do you change yours?
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Old 01-07-2019, 03:19 PM   #2
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A magnesium rod will erode much faster than an aluminum/zinc rod. A rod with no erosion is not doing its job. Do you know which rods you had?
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Old 01-07-2019, 04:29 PM   #3
rohrmann
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This is from the Suburban manual-

NOTE: Water with high levels of iron and/or sulfate will increase the rate of deterioration; therefore, more frequent replacement may be required. If anode rod is mostly eaten away, replace it with a new one.

The Suburban magnesium rod is part number 232767
The Suburban aluminum rod is part number 232768



If you replaced the original rod with an aluminum rod, like was said, it won't sacrifice itself to protect the steel tank. An anode rod replacement every 12 months is way cheaper than risking having to replace the water heater due to a leak caused by corrosion. I use only the magnesium rod, and some years the rod is mostly gone and others it is maybe half gone. Just depends on what water runs through the water heater.
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Old 01-07-2019, 09:58 PM   #4
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It really depends on your water. We have RO water or use a softener and change them every other year.
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Old 01-08-2019, 07:27 AM   #5
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My understanding is you change to an aluminum rod if you are having to change it very frequently or you have the rotten egg smell.
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Old 01-08-2019, 08:18 AM   #6
Dave W
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Our 5er's HW heater is an Atwood so no anode rod.



Our S&B has a Rheem HW heater with a magnesium anode rod. I just changed it on Sunday after ~5 years and it was just starting to go so replaced it in kind. The last HW heater was a Whirlpool (PO junk!) nad it would use up an aluminum anode completely to the steel wire in about 2 years. Water quality is the same since it comes from the same town spuces.



One note about excess aluminum that researchers are finding is that it is linked to dementia and Alzheimer's
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Old 01-08-2019, 08:24 AM   #7
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When i replaced mine I shot water into the tank and you wouldn't believe how much junk was in the bottom of the tank. I have a pressure nozzle for my hose that shoots a small stream of water. So if you have the rod out than flush the tank.
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Old 01-08-2019, 06:06 PM   #8
Five O'clock Somewhere
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I am on my fourth 5th wheel since 1980. (First Montana 2018 3731FL). I have make it a habit to change the anode rod the first week of May and never had a problem with a water heater in any brand camper. A small investment given the cost of replacing a water heater.
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Old 01-09-2019, 06:48 AM   #9
mazboy
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Gosh, I've never changed the rod on any of my trailers. I guess I should every once in a while.:-)
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Old 01-09-2019, 08:02 AM   #10
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I also put Teflon tape on the threads.
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Old 01-09-2019, 08:29 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Bone View Post
I also put Teflon tape on the threads.
X2. And being pipe threads, you do not need to over tighten it. Lightly tighten it and it will not leak, and will come out easy next time.
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Old 01-13-2019, 02:29 PM   #12
glbybeeut
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RE Question about Anode Rod

The Anode Rod prevents tank erosion from electrolysis. It is my understanding that the rod deteriorates by shorting the electrolysis through the rod to ground. Using an over abundance of Teflon tape will interrupt the threads passing the electric current to ground and there will be no effect from having the rod in place. Three wraps is plenty and will allow the threads to cut through and make contact to complete the circuit.

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Old 01-13-2019, 05:52 PM   #13
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By the time you tighten the rod enough to keep it from leaking with the tapered pipe threads, the Teflon tape will have moved enough to allow the metal threads to make metal to metal contact. Even with five or six wraps I have never had the anode not make contact and not work.
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Old 01-13-2019, 06:09 PM   #14
RayT
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The instructions that came with my replacement Suburban 232767 anode rod say to use teflon tape when installing it. I'm sure that even with the teflon tape there's plenty of tread that cuts through sand makes metal-metal contact.
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Old Yesterday, 05:50 AM   #15
Dave W
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rohrmann View Post
By the time you tighten the rod enough to keep it from leaking with the tapered pipe threads, the Teflon tape will have moved enough to allow the metal threads to make metal to metal contact. Even with five or six wraps I have never had the anode not make contact and not work.

Exactly why I generally use a Teflon based lbrush on sealant.Those seldom if ever leak. Teflon tape - probably 50-75% through the wadded up and now stringy stuff
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Old Yesterday, 09:19 PM   #16
BB_TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave W View Post
Exactly why I generally use a Teflon based lbrush on sealant.Those seldom if ever leak. Teflon tape - probably 50-75% through the wadded up and now stringy stuff
I have never had a leak using Teflon tape on pipe threads. Not to say it doesn’t happen. But 50-75% I think is a tad high.
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Old Today, 06:15 AM   #17
Dave W
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BB_TX View Post
I have never had a leak using Teflon tape on pipe threads. Not to say it doesn’t happen. But 50-75% I think is a tad high.

That's my experience, not necessarily other folks. With a Teflon paste type seal, Real-Tuff or RTectorseal (current bottle), I virtually never have leaks.
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