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04-15-2006, 06:03 AM
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#21
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Weatherford
Posts: 1,383
M.O.C. #9
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richfaa, we have golf carts because we live on 13 acres. Our daughter has a place on the same acreage. We are quite a ways from the road (mailbox, trash pickup, etc.) The carts are some of our best investments. The first golf cart we bought was very well used - it's still the best of 4 we now have. I've bought 2 from individuals and 2 from a salvage sale. They are all electric - so we can sneak up on the critters without scaring them off. They provide great emtertainment when friends with kids come over. Two of them have golf bags on the back for a rake, hoe, shovel and a basket and 5 gal bucket for tree trimmers, hand tools, fire ant killer, wasp spray, etc.- all the stuff you may want/need but don't want to have to load & unload. When we get ready to RV we make a couple of golf cart trips with the groceries, clothes, electronics that don't reside in the TT and we can be off in a matter of minutes !!
dsprik - just because you don't have a 50 amp breaker doesn't mean you can't add one. The total amperage the box handles is the key here. Look for a model number to "Google" or some words like "120 amp entry box" somewhere. That simply means you don't want more than 100 or so amps actually being pulled at one time. That's a LOT of amps to all be running at once, so unless to box has already had some added, there should be room and capacity to add extra breakers. Your friendly folks at Home Depot or Lowes are a good source for a crash course in wiring. Of course a licensed electrician is recommended (and probably the city code/ordinance unless done by the owner).
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04-15-2006, 11:59 AM
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#22
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fort Myers
Posts: 5,933
M.O.C. #4282
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Found the Amp labels. They were on the end of the switch - painted over, so hard to see. Unfortunately, the upstairs box is NOT labeled. However, I have and 80 amp and a 60 amp switch, and I have an electric dryer and and electric stove - both of which we use. Seems to be plenty of room, though to add another 60 amp switch.
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04-15-2006, 06:12 PM
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#23
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location:
Posts: 1,568
M.O.C. #4890
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Dave, Hopefully you will have the service required to wire in a 50 AMP box but unless you plan to run both A/C units at the same time you do laundry, you probably only need 30 AMP service and up here in Canada 50 amp CGs are few and far between. I never have had a problem with 30 AMP.
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04-15-2006, 06:20 PM
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#24
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Eureka
Posts: 1,490
M.O.C. #2
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We wanted to do the electrical hookup and also the sewer outlet. I had no idea that the electrical would be so expensive. I'm not sure I can convince Dick to spend that much. Especially since we are planning on putting the house up for sale soon.
We only have one AC so maybe the 30 amp service would be cheaper and sufficient for us. I assume it would be less expensive? We would rarely use it anyway here at home. Maybe if we had guests or Dick was banished out there? LOL
Thanks everyone for the valuable information.
Patty
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04-16-2006, 05:12 AM
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#25
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fort Myers
Posts: 5,933
M.O.C. #4282
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Thanks for the info, Don. I will look at both options.
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04-16-2006, 06:53 AM
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#26
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: North Ridgeville
Posts: 20,229
M.O.C. #2839
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Dave there is no doubt 30 AMP service would be less expensive to install if a electrician/Contractor is doing the work and 30 AMP service would be adequate. We had 20 amp service outside for all our campers up to this point. Tne only reason we are going to 50 amp is because we had the extra breakers and we got a very good price from a friend. remember you just can't slap in a 50 amp breaker and go..The wireing has to be of the proper size to handle the load.
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04-16-2006, 10:12 AM
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#27
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fort Myers
Posts: 5,933
M.O.C. #4282
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So could you get away with 6 ga wire with 30 amp? I pulled the cover off of my box, and it is rated to 100 amps. the dryer is 24 amps, the electric stove, I couldn't find, and Cheryl has the washer going, which makes it really tough to pull out from the wall and try to read with a flashlight - upside down.
Can you run your main A/C and the microwave at the same time on 30 amp?
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04-16-2006, 12:53 PM
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#28
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: North Ridgeville
Posts: 20,229
M.O.C. #2839
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Hummm..Maybe..The A/C will draw @ 11/12 amps while running and maybe 16 amps startup. The Microwave is @ 14/15 amps. I would guess that if you cranked up the A/C then used the Microwave you would be OK as long as you did not fire up a hair dryer and a toaster at the same time.
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04-16-2006, 01:27 PM
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#29
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Montana Master
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Tipton
Posts: 3,646
M.O.C. #191
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Al is not here, out getting Big Butt a meal of gas so we can run up to Ft Wayne tomorrow, so, I cannot verify this before I post it, but, he usually says I can run any TWO large pulls on a 30 AMP. I think he says it is ok for A/C (ONE UNIT, not TWO) and the microwave at the same time. However, most the stuff I put in the microwave is only for a couple of minutes, cup of hot water for tea, warm up the kids dinner, sometimes a baked potato. I usually walk over, turn off the A/C for a few minutes, use the microwave and then turn the A/C back on.
That said if the 30 amp service is weak and that other number, what is that the volts, is running low, I won't run the A/C and the microwave at the same time, period. Yea, I know, we can run out there and reset stuff, but easier for me to turn off one to run the other. He has one of those digital meters over on the wall in between the futon and the dining table, if those numbers are below 115 I start asking him questions, OR just run one thing at a time.
Large pulls as Rich is pointing out, would be hairdryer, A/C, microwave, electric heaters, toaster. I run 2 but never 3 at a time when on 30 amp.
Steve R. has listed a number of times what they can run on their unit, maybe a search would turn that info up??
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04-16-2006, 02:02 PM
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#30
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Conover
Posts: 995
M.O.C. #1832
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Dave checkout the link on page one in post I made to Rich, this link will tell you at the end what wire type and size for footage you run to the service box outside. 6 gauge for 30 amp is more than likely fine. I would suggest you find the main box to your house to see what the total map service is you have, or what total amp service you have to your up stairs part. It takes a lot to use up total amps that most stick homes have, not everything is going to be on at the same time anyway.
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04-16-2006, 03:31 PM
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#31
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fort Myers
Posts: 5,933
M.O.C. #4282
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Thanks, Rodney. I'll do that.
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04-16-2006, 03:49 PM
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#32
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fort Myers
Posts: 5,933
M.O.C. #4282
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That's a great link, Rodney. I will definitely have an electrician do this, though. Of all the friends I have, none of them are electricians, for some reason. I have friends and family in every other facet of the building trades that there is. Just when I need some work done cheap...
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04-19-2006, 05:43 PM
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#33
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location:
Posts: 1,568
M.O.C. #4890
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Actually , in Canada 30 amp ( usually your electric dryer ) only takes 10 guage wire.
40 amp ( your electric stove ) takes 8 guage and I assume 50 amp takes 6 guage. This depends on the length of the run but my house is 3400 Sq feet and and it is wired to these specs and I rarely trip breakers.
20 amp takes 12 guage and your standard 15 amp circuit takes 14 guage and I believe the good old USA is probably the same, at least in most States.
When your wired properly, you do not have to worry about overloading the circuit. That is what breakers are for, they trip and break the circuit. Take care.
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04-20-2006, 02:25 AM
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#34
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fort Myers
Posts: 5,933
M.O.C. #4282
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Do you have any heat problems with those gauges, Don? I have a rep from the power company coming over - supposedly today - to give me an estimate and some ideas. I will probably want to put in a seperate meter for this.
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04-20-2006, 04:33 AM
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#35
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Forney
Posts: 236
M.O.C. #5206
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If you can afford it...then it is only money.
I do my on wiring at our deer lease. I have run an overhead line 125 feet from the meter box to my RV box set next to my trailer.
I took electric shop in High School. lol
No acutually I did buy an electric "How To" book though and have received a few pointers from electricians over the years.
My power poles may be a little under code but it works
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04-20-2006, 06:14 AM
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#36
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fort Myers
Posts: 5,933
M.O.C. #4282
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You're not going to be in the area, are you, Gary???
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