2015 Montana Washer/Dryer Installed - Montana Owners Club

7.3Ford · 04-13-2015, 05:07 PM

Finally got the Washer/Dryer Combo Installed

For more picture see my blog in my tagline.

jlb27537 · 04-14-2015, 03:51 AM

John, great blog. I would question if the shelf the washer is sitting on will hold up to the vibration of use. It looks like the the back just has a strip screwed to the outer wall. The framing you show with the shelf off to show under it is just not heavy enough for a 148lb washer on off balance spin.

Placement of the w/d in a corner, having to move clothes to use it. Ours is the design before, with the w/d in the center of the front.

I have had experience with a different rig that I fought vibration and ended up rebuilding part of the floor. Splendide requires a rock solid foundation.

DW loves the bed spread. Almost like the one we have at our house. I showed her your pics of the w/d. I can not say what she said.

Jim

Bigboomer · 04-14-2015, 04:12 AM

That's the problem John, Montana is not thinking when it comes to these things....personally we feel you loose a lot with the w/d in closet and since Sue likes to throw a load on while we are sleeping the noise, heat and moisture negates that....
Hopefully when we are ready to trade in a couple of years they get it right otherwise who knows....
And they say they listen to folks at the fall rally....pretty funny!

MHC305RL · 04-14-2015, 04:41 AM

We just picked up our 2015 Montana High Country 305RL this weekend that has the same closet design as your Monty. We are planning a washer/dryer as well and don't really like the location either. We were wondering if you could put the washer in the floor facing the bedroom and still get it to drain like it should? It would make getting to the right side hard to put anything except large items. But shirts and the like should still be able to slide on the clothes rod above the washer. Plus the washer would face out and be easier to access. And you wouldn't have to slide the clothes each time to use the washer.

Any thoughts?

7.3Ford · 04-14-2015, 04:51 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by MHC305RL

We just picked up our 2015 Montana High Country 305RL this weekend that has the same closet design as your Monty. We are planning a washer/dryer as well and don't really like the location either. We were wondering if you could put the washer in the floor facing the bedroom and still get it to drain like it should? It would make getting to the right side hard to put anything except large items. But shirts and the like should still be able to slide on the clothes rod above the washer. Plus the washer would face out and be easier to access. And you wouldn't have to slide the clothes each time to use the washer.

Any thoughts?

We thought that could be done too, but the way the closet door slide, and the fixed panel are made, it was too much work. Venting was also an issue, since there isn't any room to spare. Very poor design IMO.

MHC305RL · 05-09-2015, 12:45 PM

We just bought our Splendid 2100xc today at Camping World. They have them on sale for $997. I think I will install a drain pan while I am at it. I need to either find some washer hoses that have 90 degree elbows on BOTH ends, or just install 2 90 degree elbows to the hoses. We are wanting a black vent cover, so I may buy a different brand that is black, or the splendid brand and paint it black with some plastic paint. I am curious how the vent connects to the combo? It looks like it screws on? Boy, its going to be tight!

cdaniels · 05-09-2015, 01:27 PM

Go to Lowes and buy a moisture sensor. $15 and mount it so the sensor is in the drain pan. It has saved us x1 so far when we forgot to open the valve and was doing wash. Jim Fishers recomendation to us that saved us a mess.

**DQDick** · 05-09-2015, 03:32 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by cdaniels

Go to Lowes and buy a moisture sensor. $15 and mount it so the sensor is in the drain pan. It has saved us x1 so far when we forgot to open the valve and was doing wash. Jim Fishers recomendation to us that saved us a mess.

X2 and we also use one on the floor next to the toilet. Each one has saved us once. Drain closed on the washer, water still flowing on a Tetford toilet.

MHC305RL · 05-09-2015, 03:40 PM

How does the drain close on the washer? I don't see a valve on my discharge pipe. It looks just like a residential washer drain pipe.

7.3Ford · 05-09-2015, 05:53 PM

Water goes into same Gray tank as the shower. One load uses about 25% of tank cap.

We did 9-10 loads over the last week while camped at Huntington Beach State Park, SC.

HOOK · 05-11-2015, 04:54 AM

Pat loves ours! If we can, we open the front gray water tank while washing. There is room for several loads in the tank when closed if necessary. Ous does not use much water.

jlb27537 · 05-11-2015, 05:28 AM

Splendede washer hoses......

DO NOT TRY AND USE HOSES FOR US WASHERS.

The water valve on a Splendede are 20mm threads. Which is a metric fitting.

US washers use a "garden hose" thread and will NOT connect to a Splendede.

You will have to buy different hoses direct from Splendede.

Been there, Jim

MHC305RL · 05-11-2015, 09:13 AM

I don't think they make what I need. The hoses that I need have 90 degree elbows on both ends. The ones that came with the washer only have 90 degree elbows on 1 end. I was going to buy a couple of elbows from Walmart or somewhere and add them to the hoses.

Has anyone else had this issue? 7.3 Ford, did you use the hoses that came with the washer or something else?

7.3Ford · 05-11-2015, 11:44 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by MHC305RL

I don't think they make what I need. The hoses that I need have 90 degree elbows on both ends. The ones that came with the washer only have 90 degree elbows on 1 end. I was going to buy a couple of elbows from Walmart or somewhere and add them to the hoses.

Has anyone else had this issue? 7.3 Ford, did you use the hoses that came with the washer or something else?

Yes I used the 90 on the washer side and straight on the hookup side. I just turned the faucet towards the back about 45 degrees.

MHC305RL · 05-19-2015, 06:18 AM

I have a drain pan and splendid vent kit now. I would like to put a drain in the center of the pan and run it down to the right side propane tank area. I haven't started the project yet, so I'm not sure it will work.

7.3 FORD, I noticed your dryer vent is less than 12 inches or so from the drain pan. The vent on my washer is up towards the top of the unit. Did you use a flat 90 degree dryer vent for yours, or does your vent come out of the unit lower? I was going to just install my vent straight out from the discharge from the washer, but I may have to cut the black plastic part of the vent a little shorter because it seems like it sticks through the wall too much.

MHC305RL · 05-19-2015, 01:05 PM

After taking up the floor cover for the water lines and drain, I am thinking of putting the drain pan drain down through the bottom, flat part of the front cap. I was going to run it down by the propane tank, but I think it would be easy to kink and possibly not drain. Plus it would be difficult to pull the hose that far.

I am reluctant to drill a hole through the front cap, but after I thought about, I'm going to be drilling a 4" hole through the side of the wall so it doesn't seem that bad.

I would be able to silicon both sides of the hose and stick some steel wool or something up through the hose to keep bugs out.

Any thoughts?

7.3Ford · 05-19-2015, 03:53 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by MHC305RL

I have a drain pan and splendid vent kit now. I would like to put a drain in the center of the pan and run it down to the right side propane tank area. I haven't started the project yet, so I'm not sure it will work.

7.3 FORD, I noticed your dryer vent is less than 12 inches or so from the drain pan. The vent on my washer is up towards the top of the unit. Did you use a flat 90 degree dryer vent for yours, or does your vent come out of the unit lower? I was going to just install my vent straight out from the discharge from the washer, but I may have to cut the black plastic part of the vent a little shorter because it seems like it sticks through the wall too much.

William,

Mine is just like yours. I used the cheap dryer duct that came with the Vent kit. Don't use the ridged duct, it breaks from the bouncing up and down as you go down the road.

I have the unit out from the back wall about 3" so I don't kink the dryer duct.

7.3Ford · 05-19-2015, 04:00 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by MHC305RL

After taking up the floor cover for the water lines and drain, I am thinking of putting the drain pan drain down through the bottom, flat part of the front cap. I was going to run it down by the propane tank, but I think it would be easy to kink and possibly not drain. Plus it would be difficult to pull the hose that far.

I am reluctant to drill a hole through the front cap, but after I thought about, I'm going to be drilling a 4" hole through the side of the wall so it doesn't seem that bad.

I would be able to silicon both sides of the hose and stick some steel wool or something up through the hose to keep bugs out.

Any thoughts?

William,

First I would not use steel wool around the dryer vent, steel wool is very flammable.

I think 4" hole is way to big. Make sure you find were the framing is before you drill, you don't want to cut the framing.

I cut my hole with a Dremel Tool.

MHC305RL · 05-20-2015, 02:55 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by 7.3Ford

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by MHC305RL

I have a drain pan and splendid vent kit now. I would like to put a drain in the center of the pan and run it down to the right side propane tank area. I haven't started the project yet, so I'm not sure it will work.

7.3 FORD, I noticed your dryer vent is less than 12 inches or so from the drain pan. The vent on my washer is up towards the top of the unit. Did you use a flat 90 degree dryer vent for yours, or does your vent come out of the unit lower? I was going to just install my vent straight out from the discharge from the washer, but I may have to cut the black plastic part of the vent a little shorter because it seems like it sticks through the wall too much.

William,

Mine is just like yours. I used the cheap dryer duct that came with the Vent kit. Don't use the ridged duct, it breaks from the bouncing up and down as you go down the road.

I have the unit out from the back wall about 3" so I don't kink the dryer duct.

So your vent exit from the washer is higher than the vent through the wall? I was thinking of just drilling the hole through the wall exactly where the exit is on the washer and then just using a few inches of duct to connect the two pieces together. Of course if there is framing in the wall at that location, then I will have to move the hole.

MHC305RL · 05-20-2015, 02:59 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by 7.3Ford

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by MHC305RL

After taking up the floor cover for the water lines and drain, I am thinking of putting the drain pan drain down through the bottom, flat part of the front cap. I was going to run it down by the propane tank, but I think it would be easy to kink and possibly not drain. Plus it would be difficult to pull the hose that far.

I am reluctant to drill a hole through the front cap, but after I thought about, I'm going to be drilling a 4" hole through the side of the wall so it doesn't seem that bad.

I would be able to silicon both sides of the hose and stick some steel wool or something up through the hose to keep bugs out.

Any thoughts?

William,

First I would not use steel wool around the dryer vent, steel wool is very flammable.

I think 4" hole is way to big. Make sure you find were the framing is before you drill, you don't want to cut the framing.

I cut my hole with a Dremel Tool.

I was going to use steel wool in the drain pan drain where it exits. I am now thinking of using either a recessed rv city water inlet as my drain location on the bottom of the front cap, or just a small, stainless, bar sink drain on the bottom of the front cap.

I will of course measure the vent before drilling through the wall, but I thought it said it required a 4" hole.

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