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Old 03-27-2007, 04:25 PM   #121
rvfirefighter
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Rich, I workcamped at that resort 4 years ago. Ask about a tall fellow named Winston. He used to run the campground and marina. I worked with him at the Houseboat rental dock.
If you find him, tell him David and Brenda said hello and I hope things are going well.
 
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Old 03-27-2007, 04:52 PM   #122
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Rich, had same 50 amp cord problem first time out. Took to dealer, loose wire on female end. You must have the patience of Jobe. After 2 yrs of headaches I traded mine in on a Glacier Bay today. We lost confidence in ours. Tired of wondering what will fall apart next. Good luck with your factory fix. I enjoyed your posts and learned a lot from you. Best wishes, Ray
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Old 03-28-2007, 08:09 AM   #123
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We are considering that option. Will see what happens after the Factory fix.
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Old 03-28-2007, 11:20 AM   #124
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Well I hate to nit pick but then again I am only reporting what is happening. We fixed The non working 50 amp power cord, Item 26 because it is hot and humid here in the Atlanta area and we wanted to run both A/C however upon opening the right side compartment hatch the rubber seal peeled away from the camper.So the falling off seal becomes item 26..we broke even today.
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Old 04-08-2007, 12:25 PM   #125
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We have a sewer smell in out toilet and I went up on the roof and two of the vents had a small amount of goop in the smal hole on the top of the vent and a third vent had no goop in the small hole. Is there supposed to be goop in the small hole? Is there a plumbing schematic I can look at?
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Old 04-08-2007, 01:38 PM   #126
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The vents should be clear. There may be other issues such as waste build up in the black tank. Make sure the vent is clear if that does not work try treating the black tank. Suggest you stay away from Chemicals..Most chemicals kill bacteria and that is what you do not want to do. Bacteria consumes waste..you do not want to kill it.Do not use a product with formaldehyde...Formaldehyde is a preservative..you don't want to preserve poop. Formaldehyde has been banned although Wall mart and C.W still sell it. Now they use "gluteraldehyde" guess what it is used in Embalming fluid... You need to add Active bacteria into your black tank..that is how the home septic tanks work.. Rid-X will work but it is designed for HOME septic systems and is slow acting. There are several brands that can be purchased at any Rv store that are HIGH in active bacteria..follow instructions and give that tank a good cleaning.. is also good in the grey tanks. If your indicator guages are not working properly they just might work after treating.
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Old 04-09-2007, 06:39 AM   #127
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Rich, sorry to hear about your problems. We had over 50 items on our factory fix trip. Besides the fix list, I put stickies with the problems written out wherever a fix was needed and they still managed to overlook a bunch. So double check all their work. Don't pick up your rig at the end of the workday and leave like we did. Since then we have had at least another 25 problems including a blackwater tank smell, but our problem is different from yours unfortunately.
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Old 04-09-2007, 07:16 AM   #128
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We have all the time in the world and will not leave the service center till every issue is addressed. Our list is at 26 and holding. I think the sewer smell may have been self inflected.We did not do a good job in flushing and maintaining the galley tank. We have been using a high level active bacterial agent in the galley tank and all kinds of gloop is flowing out. It has been working since April 3rd now and we will be interseted in what comes out when we get the chance to flush (to cold now)
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Old 04-10-2007, 02:12 AM   #129
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Rich, What "high level active bacterial agent" are you using? It sounds like it's working wonders!
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Old 04-10-2007, 10:03 AM   #130
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I am using a product called "pure power" www.opproducts.com That I purchase from a vendor at FCRV rallies. I think C.W sells it. Any similar product that has the active bacterial, enzymes will do the job..I saw a products at Wall Mart..

The ingredients are listed as...Non-pathogenic bacteria enzymes, natural surfactanta and wintergreen fragrance.. The secret is bacteria..think of how a septic tank works, The black tank is no different except it is a "holding tank" and the waste is not in it for very long so a fast acting bacterial agent is needed.
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Old 04-10-2007, 12:13 PM   #131
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Right on the mark Rich. OP's products are very effective, have used them before and this thread has brought them back to mind. I will have to start using them in the new 3400 when it gets here.
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Old 04-10-2007, 12:31 PM   #132
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We use a product called "Snow Fresh." It takes 1/4 cup per dump. So far, in over 6 years of full timing, we haven't had any kind of odor when using this product. We've tried others at various times and we always had some odor (my wife has a very, very keen smeller), but with Snow Fresh we haven't had any. That is, if I don't forget to use it!

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Old 04-11-2007, 06:10 AM   #133
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I wish you folks would quit responding to everyone's problem - LOL.
I have such a list of products to purchase when we get our rig that we will probably not be able to take any clothing or food with us due to the weight.
Of course we could go on a diet and stay at nudist camps (both scary thoughts!).
Actually, joking aside, thanks for the information.
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Old 04-11-2007, 06:29 AM   #134
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Longwell

I wish you folks would quit responding to everyone's problem - LOL.
I have such a list of products to purchase when we get our rig that we will probably not be able to take any clothing or food with us due to the weight.
Of course we could go on a diet and stay at nudist camps (both scary thoughts!).
Actually, joking aside, thanks for the information.
Larry
Don't take what everyone says as being right for you. Experiment with some of the things and find out what is best. That's what we did. It took us almost a year of full timing before we settled on the product we use.

Orv
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Old 04-11-2007, 07:30 AM   #135
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Now that was some good advice Orv...

We could all drive each other crazy trying to get all the fixes.
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Old 02-04-2019, 03:07 PM   #136
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hey, Steve, I know this thread is really old, but if you see this I was wondering if you could explain what you meant by using the extra gate valve to share the grey tank(s) capacities? I have pulled the galley, with a rush of water, then pulled the regular grey tank & had nothing come out. There had been at least 2 showers & multiple bathroom sink usages - there should've been lots in the grey. Did it all come out somehow thru the galley? Weird, weird, weird.
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Old 02-05-2019, 11:56 AM   #137
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This a very old thread and most of the posters are no longer active here. Sharing the grey and galley tanks was a trick with pre-2010 models When they introduced the dropped frame the tanks are now on different levels and it doesn't work so well.
As for your drainage issue, you might be better asking it s a new thread.
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Old 02-06-2019, 06:41 AM   #138
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Hi, Carl, thanks for your reply. We have a 2009 2995RL so the 'trick', which we aren't aware of, might apply to us. Can you give us anymore info, or should I send this out on a new thread?
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Old 02-06-2019, 11:58 AM   #139
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Your main gray tank is not opening. You have two gray tanks that each have a valve.
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Old 02-06-2019, 12:16 PM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneG View Post
Hi, Carl, thanks for your reply. We have a 2009 2995RL so the 'trick', which we aren't aware of, might apply to us. Can you give us anymore info, or should I send this out on a new thread?
The "trick", such that it is, is to install a gate valve on the sewer outlet pipe, have it Closed, and then open the grey and galley tanks valves. The tanks are on equal levels so the water level in each will equalize. But when you are full, you are full.
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