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09-13-2008, 08:01 AM
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#1
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Nokesville
Posts: 70
M.O.C. #8144
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Hot Water Heater Operation Question
It was my understanding from our walk-thru that the hot water heater would only switch on if you turned the switch on for the heater on the control panel (the panel that shows tank levels and also to turn the water pump on and off). Lo and behold we did not turn that switch on and we have hot water. Of course the owner's manual does not address this subject and we do not have a separate owner's manual in our packet for the hot water heater. My assumption is the switch is only to operate from gas if not hooked up to electricity?? Can someone pls shed some light on this for me? Thanks.
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09-13-2008, 08:07 AM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fort Myers
Posts: 5,933
M.O.C. #4282
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The electric switch is on the tank itself - outside. However, most of us use the breaker in the elect panel to turn that on and off. Gas and electric on the WH act totally independent of each other. You can have just electric on or just gas on. Or you can have both elect and gas on for faster recovery. Or you can turn both off and have no hot water.
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09-13-2008, 08:11 AM
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#3
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Nokesville
Posts: 70
M.O.C. #8144
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Thanks dsprik....but the switch on the control panel...is that just for gas operation? Because I have that off and I still have hot water while hooked up to electric in the campground.
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09-13-2008, 08:18 AM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Cedar Rapids
Posts: 4,876
M.O.C. #1944
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The switch on the panel you're talking about is for propane use of the hot water heater. In our rig, we have a circuit breaker for the electric on the water heater. You don't need the switch that you're talking about turned on when hooked to shore power as long as the switch on the water heater that dsprik mentioned is turned on and, if you have a breaker on the converter panel marked for the water heater turned on also.
I assume, from what you've posted, that the water heater is turned on for electric. That's why you get hot water when connected to shore power. As dsprik mentioned, if you need quick recovery (too many showers in too short a time), you can turn the switch on the monitor panel on and you'll get hot water quickly.
Orv
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09-13-2008, 08:24 AM
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#5
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Nokesville
Posts: 70
M.O.C. #8144
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Thanks to you both. Guess I have been having the hot water heater in quick recovery mode since I have had without realizing it!
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09-13-2008, 08:31 AM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fort Myers
Posts: 5,933
M.O.C. #4282
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Kinda good for quick recovery, but a little more energy (propane, or electric if paying for that) than you probably needed to pay for if quick recovery was not what you always needed...
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09-13-2008, 10:22 AM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Lone Tree
Posts: 5,615
M.O.C. #6109
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Careful -
You really need to state what model/year you have fernsco. All the responses are true UNLESS you have a 2008/2009 in which you switches for both the AC and LP supply on the control panel.
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09-13-2008, 11:48 AM
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#8
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Nokesville
Posts: 70
M.O.C. #8144
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bsmeaton,
We have an early model 2008 3485SL, but I don't think the switch on the control box for the hot water heater is for both elec and propane because the switch is off on the control box and we have hot water.
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09-13-2008, 01:14 PM
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#9
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Lone Tree
Posts: 5,615
M.O.C. #6109
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yeppers, you must have the old one then. This is the new one and has two hot water switches and the pump switch:
The tank is the same though, and probably still has the outside switch in addition to ths switch for the 110side.
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09-13-2008, 02:08 PM
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#10
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Kelowna
Posts: 1,475
M.O.C. #6237
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If you open the cover for the hot water tank you will see the switch for the electric mode in the bottom left corner. There should be a spring pin that is inserted in the switch when it is turned off.
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09-13-2008, 04:28 PM
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#11
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Montana Master
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location:
Posts: 2,156
M.O.C. #6920
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Hookman gave you the answer, really. Your switch is probably ON and the cotter pin must be removed from the on/off switch outside your unit on the streetside.
Hey, we're all learning and I'm no exception. Find it??? Dennis
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09-14-2008, 02:25 AM
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#12
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Nokesville
Posts: 70
M.O.C. #8144
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Yes, I see the switch on the outside. Thanks to all for the clarification and help. Also noticed I am close to needing a new anode already. Lots of rust, but one hard place to get a socket or vice scripts too!
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09-14-2008, 03:55 AM
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#13
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fort Myers
Posts: 5,933
M.O.C. #4282
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Fernsco, You need a 1 ¹/16", six point socket (½" socket) and a breaker bar. Need a short extension. Just got done borrowing my brother-in-law's. Teflon tape the new 9" anode when you put it in.
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09-14-2008, 04:29 AM
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#14
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Nokesville
Posts: 70
M.O.C. #8144
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dsprik,
Thanks, just what I need...another excuse to go to the Sears tools section! 
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09-14-2008, 05:10 AM
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#15
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location:
Posts: 2,376
M.O.C. #6575
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by fernsco
Yes, I see the switch on the outside. Thanks to all for the clarification and help. Also noticed I am close to needing a new anode already. Lots of rust, but one hard place to get a socket or vice scripts too!
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How did you determine you need a new anode if you have not removed the old one? Is there something I missed here?
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09-14-2008, 05:19 AM
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#16
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fort Myers
Posts: 5,933
M.O.C. #4282
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by fernsco
dsprik,
Thanks, just what I need...another excuse to go to the Sears tools section!
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If you have some friend or family member that has this, I would HIGHLY suggest not buying this, unless you would use it for more than the once a year anode change... Very expensive tools.
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09-14-2008, 05:24 AM
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#17
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fort Myers
Posts: 5,933
M.O.C. #4282
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by SlickWillie
Quote:
quote:Originally posted by fernsco
Yes, I see the switch on the outside. Thanks to all for the clarification and help. Also noticed I am close to needing a new anode already. Lots of rust, but one hard place to get a socket or vice scripts too!
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How did you determine you need a new anode if you have not removed the old one? Is there something I missed here?
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Will, you can simply pull it out and look at it. If most of it is left, you can teflon tape it back up and put it back in. It works until completely gone. I just have a routine of changing mine out once a year. Not that expensive. We [s]are[/s] were FTers, though.
I also use that time to flush the white crud out of the WH.
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09-14-2008, 06:51 AM
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#18
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Cedar Rapids
Posts: 4,876
M.O.C. #1944
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Dave's idea of changing once/year routinely is a pretty good idea. I like to do it when I change water filters. Usually, under normal conditions, I change filters once/year as well as the anode. Sometimes the anode is almost gone, other times it looks like it has half a life left. I change it anyway. They only cost about $10.
Orv
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09-17-2008, 03:24 PM
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#19
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 214
M.O.C. #7994
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You don't want it to rot off and drop inside. Although flushing will clear most of the small debris a broken off large piece will be difficult. I checked mine and a narrow neck had corroded into it near the plug.
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09-17-2008, 04:19 PM
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#20
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Livermore
Posts: 5,145
M.O.C. #1920
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The corrosion on the rod means it's working. There is a hard center wire that the aluminum or magnesium is bonded to on the anode. If you are down to almost the wire all the way across, you need a new one. If you still have a major diameter, you do not need a new anode. If you drain your water heater by first openning the top pressure valve and then removing the anode, even large chunks will flush. It works kind of like the old gas cans with a vent. If you don't open the vent first, it kinda' chugs. Once the vent is open, it pours out freely. Hope this helps
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