slides

[Jill Gomery]

When traveling over rough roads our slides start to inch out - after a full day of driving with about 40% on rough roads (interstates) our slides have inched out about 5 inches - is there a way to fix this problem?

[ols1932]

Ours did the same thing two years ago. Problem was with the check valve inside the hydraulic pump. It was allowing hydraulic fluid to flow back. Had to replace the pump at a cost of $560 which just happened to fall under the extended warranty.

Orv

[rames14]

We have traveled over lots of rough roads without incident. I would check for a bad check valve. I would think they could do that without changing the whole pump. Even if its an internal check valve, an external could be added. But if it is under warranty, even better. Get Montana to pay for it (or extended warranty).

[mobrownies]

Some slideouts I have seen on older models of SOB came with a brace that you put between the trailer wall and the lip of the slide to keep it from going out when traveling. We have not had any problem with our slides coming out.

[sreigle]

We haven't had this problem, but... When we left the rv park in Topeka last Saturday, we had to drive about a half mile of rough gravel road to reach the highway. I've always wondered what it's like to ride in the Montana on the road so Vicki suggested I crawl inside and she would drive that half mile. She never got over about 25 (it was rough) but it was an interesting ride. I was surprised, however, that I didn't hear a lot of creaking and groaning. That's probably a good thing. What I heard was silverware rattling, etc. However, I did notice the dining slide, the big slide, was rocking a bit in its retracted position. Not much, just a little, but enough that I noticed it. Anyone know if this is normal on a rough road? Or do I have some slop in the mechanism I need to adjust out?

MIMF, where are you???

[MIMF]

Hi, everyone.

Jill,

If your unit is a late model, there could be a couple of reasons why this slide is creeping out. Let's do the easy things first,

First, with all of the rooms in, check the fluid level in the reservoir. The level should be up to about 1/2" from the fill cap in the top of the tank. If it isn't and you need to add fluid, go to Wally World and buy a quart or 2 of the cheapest autmatic transmission fluid you can find and add that to the reservoir to bring the fluid level up. Don't worry about the color of the fluid that is in the bottle vs the color of the fluid in the tank. It won't matter. The reason you are doing this is because, the fluid level may be such that when you send the rooms out, the level is going down in the tank. As the rooms seal and the pump is trying to build pressure to seal them, the fluid level may have dropped enough that it may be starving for fluid and is sucking air. Especially, if you see foam or bubbles in the fluid right after you operate the pump. Air in a hydraulic system is it's worst enemy.

Over time as you operate the rooms in and out, you should notice a difference because, there may be air in the system and you are gradually working it out.

If this does not do the trick, it may be that there is a bad piston seal in the cylinder that moves that room in and out. If that is the case, you may noticeover time, if the coach is setting still and the rooms are in, that room will creep out, anyway.

A good way to check the piston seal in the cylinder is close the IRC valves on the pump after you bring them in. Once you get to rockin' and rollin' down the road, there is nothing that should be moving. If it is and the IRC valves are closed then, the piston seal is bad because, fluid is leaking past and allowing it to lose pressure as it leaks past the seal. In this case, the hydraulic cylinder will need to be replaced.

If Lippert is still using the Parker pumps, I doubt very much that a check valve in the pump is bad. If they have switched back to the Haldex pumps, it could be possible.

Other than that, that is about all of the assistance I can offer.

You all have a large evening!

[sreigle]

Jill, for years, Dale (MIMF) worked for Lippert, who built the slide mechanisms. He knows what he's talking about. He's been our expert here for a very long time.

Dale, did you see my question?

[MIMF]

Steve,

At first, I did miss your question. But to answer it now, may I make this suggestion.

At no time does it hurt to check the tightness of the rooms when they are closed. Visually inspect and feel with your finger tips around the room, up the sides especially. Some of you have the slide toppers over the rooms so it will be difficult to feel across the top seal.

If you feel the room can be brough in a smidge tighter, try it. Simply go under the room when it is extended and rotate the nylok (aircraft) nut a quarter or half turn clockwise. That will draw the room in slightly tighter which will most likely hold it in place better because, the cylinder is pulling it closer to the outside of the wall of the coach.

Remember, never try to adjust the gap out of those jamb nuts on the threaded end of the cylinder shaft. That gap is there for a purpose. And that is because the piston stroke in the cylinder tube is slightly more than what the stroke of the room from seal to seal is.

Now, that still may never take out all of the rocking back and forth for several reasons. The size and weight of the room and the flex in the frame that may be occuring naturally as you travel over rough uneven roads. Trust me, some flex in the frame over the lenght of these beauties is a good thing.