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Old 12-15-2011, 08:52 AM   #1
DQDick
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Need eu2000i advice

I picked up a pair of eu2000i's reasonably cheap. They have not been maintained and it appears the carburetor drain screws have never been opened. Once I cleaned the air filters, changed the plugs and the oil one runs like new. The other one (I think this is the one they used mostly) runs fine as long as you leave the choke half in, but when you switch the choke to full off the engine dies. Will Sea Foam fix this or should I take it to a repair facility?
 
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Old 12-15-2011, 11:11 AM   #2
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DQ,
Here's a link to directions and photos of a rebuild.
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fu...d/22602186.cfm
Then you'd know how if it fails on the road. 'Course I have always been a do it yourself guy.
I'd try the Seafoam if you have it first, always seems to work for me.
Tom
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Old 12-15-2011, 11:47 AM   #3
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Thanks, I've got Seafoam in the gas now, but the little suckers don't use much gas. Have a construction project where there is no electricity coming up so I'll get to run it all day with Seafoam in the gas and hopefully that will fix it. If not, thanks for the thread.
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Old 12-15-2011, 11:56 AM   #4
Phil P
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Hi

I have a pair of them and one of the chokes is backwards from the other.

Phil P
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Old 12-15-2011, 12:08 PM   #5
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Never considered that. I'll have to check. Thanks.
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Old 12-15-2011, 12:17 PM   #6
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Carb most likely needs a good soaking in carb cleaner or a rebuild. Usually when the choke needs to be closed 1/2 way that's a sign of a dirty or shellac build up inside carb. With the choke 1/2 closed it cuts the air way down and helps suck gas through the carb.

Here's a good link for carb removal. http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fu...d/22602186.cfm

kevin
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Old 12-15-2011, 02:54 PM   #7
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Make sure the carb is tightened properly to the intake. Mine was loose, allowing a small air leak, leaning the mixture, but ran fine when the choke was partially closed.

Bob
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Old 12-18-2011, 10:55 AM   #8
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Dick:
I have to agree with Swanny. I had one of mine was similar to that. I ended up buying carb parts from Plano in Texas. They need to be exercised every so often just like walking the dog,
ya know....JB
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Old 12-18-2011, 11:51 AM   #9
Phil P
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Hi

I got mine out yesterday and ran both of them. One runs with the choke under the black placard and the other one runs with the choke under the white placard.

So I took them apart to see what the deal was.

The 2 units are just made different. They are both running with the choke open.

It sure is confusing. Can’t tell them apart except for the paralleling unit.

Phil P
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Old 12-20-2011, 05:13 PM   #10
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Make sure you use non oxygenated 92 octane fuel. The Fuel with corn in it turns to mold after
sitting for a while and plugs the little jets in the carb. Have the carb cleaned and start over it works with the non oxygenated fuel. I would also recommend putting Sta-Bil in the tank and running it for a few minutes.
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Old 01-07-2012, 02:37 PM   #11
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sfish ... I'm just curious as to why you recommend running premium gas? I've not see any genset operators manual steering one toward premium as the compression ratio in a small engine is rather low. Are you just mentioning this to stay away from ethanol? I agree that ethanol seems to gum up small engines up if let set, but there are still several stations that sell regular without ethanol.
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Old 01-07-2012, 03:50 PM   #12
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by dieselguy

sfish ... I'm just curious as to why you recommend running premium gas? I've not see any genset operators manual steering one toward premium as the compression ratio in a small engine is rather low. Are you just mentioning this to stay away from ethanol? I agree that ethanol seems to gum up small engines up if let set, but there are still several stations that sell regular without ethanol.
I also run high test in my 2 hondas it just seems to start easier and the gas last longer when sitting for a wile, normally I empty the gas tank and dran the carburaters, I am about to do that real soon, they have been sitting for about 1 & 1/2 months now with this old gas.
I did have a gen set schalak up on me and that was 119 dollars for the repare. now I dump the gas.
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Old 07-17-2012, 07:30 AM   #13
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As stated above. this problem is to do with the carbs. Gat carb. rebuild kits, so you have new needles that also get gummed up and wear down over time. This will fix your choke deal. Good luck!!
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Old 07-17-2012, 09:29 AM   #14
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by fishinman

As stated above. this problem is to do with the carbs. Gat carb. rebuild kits, so you have new needles that also get gummed up and wear down over time. This will fix your choke deal. Good luck!!
That was 7 months ago. I'm thinking he's good to go by now.
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Old 07-17-2012, 09:37 AM   #15
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Yup, took everyone's advice and used them to build our RV home base until the electric was brought in and for two power failures the last two weeks in the 100 degree heat. Don't know what caused one, but the massive one was when a raccoon crawled into a major substation and cooked himself.
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Old 07-17-2012, 09:38 AM   #16
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Sorry we're having some electrical issues in our part of the country. Computer said it shut down when it really had sent the post. Can't trust those computers.
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Old 07-17-2012, 09:44 AM   #17
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A small engine repairman in Carlsbad, NM put me on to Seafoam. A remarkable product! I put a bit in the tank, cranked the engine several times and then let it set. Next morning I went out and pulled the rope once with the choke open and it fired right off. Had to close the choke down completely to let it continue to run. I won't be without Seafoam!

Orv
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Old 07-17-2012, 10:06 AM   #18
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Same here. That's what really cleaned them up.
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Old 07-18-2012, 01:23 AM   #19
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Just went thru the same thing Dick on my 2000. Put new fuel in it, pulled the spark plug out and cleaned it, runs good as new now.

Dave

Also believe in Sea Foam....works great!!
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Old 07-18-2012, 02:39 PM   #20
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I buy the premium non-oxy because that is the only non-oxy fuel you can buy in Minnesota.We use it in all our small engines and havent had any problems.
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