Electric Heat Conversion - Montana Owners Club

bsmeaton · 10-21-2006, 07:33 AM

Just an idea for those HVAC experts out there?

Commercial buildings often use an in-duct auxiliary electric coil to supplement heat in areas far away from the utility space. I just learned through the MOC that the newer Montanas have an electrical service of 2-50A 110VAC or even 50A 220/VAC. This is substantial, and is a larger service than most stick houses built in the 60's.

With that, would it be possible to install an electric coil furnace and maybe even fan in front of the existing LP furnace intake (return air) to heat the Monty electrically through the existing ducts on a separate thermostat? (perhaps the other fan would be quieter). There seems to be a lot of space under the fridge where my furnace is - or a separate unit could actually be installed in the basement and backfeed through the 4" flexible duct.

This would need to be a zero clearance type heat box, but the advantage would be no reliance on the LP system while fultiming with adequate hookups, and the electric is free. I think the electrical service could take the load. As a supplemental system, you would still have LP heat when boondocking.

Any thoughts?

Wrenchtraveller · 10-21-2006, 07:56 AM

No reason why it would not work. I have a combination wood oil furnace in my stick house. I found out later they had combination wood electric furnaces and that would be much better.

c5racer · 10-21-2006, 11:42 AM

Generally, when you stay in a campground for a month or longer you will be on the meter. Some campgrounds have a very high kilowatt charge.

Ozz · 10-21-2006, 11:51 AM

I think electric heat moved by a fan that big would require a large element(s) and for the most part, it sucks.
I have not been in any electric heat homes where the warm blown air is comfortable. (Now electric radiators are a different matter, just not blown electric heated air)
I like your concept, but I don't think it would work given the sizes of (everything) required to make it comfortable.
Maybe that's why we don't see any. I am not an engineer, just speaking from experience in the trade.
Ozz

tmarshall · 10-23-2006, 03:24 AM

I think you would need 100amp service for this to work. I have already thought about it, but realized that there isn't enough juice to get a heater that will blow enough heat to be comparable to a propane furnace.

bsmeaton · 10-23-2006, 06:58 AM

Oh well, just a thought. I guess I didn't realize some of the RV parks meter the electrical. I'm sure the Btuh for LP is much more efficient than electric.

Brad

Steve and Brenda · 10-24-2006, 07:38 AM

The other comments are correct in that the RV's circuit breaker box is designed for 50-amp draw and that by adding too many goodies will certainly pop the main power breaker.

Ever consider this though - most power pedestals I've seen, in addition to the main 30 or 50 amp plug, have an auxiliary 20 amp connection similar to a standard household source. By placing a seperate small circuit breaker box in the basement and adding a shore power plug to the RV bulkhead where one can attach a 20-amp power cord from the axuiliary outlet on the pedestal to that plug, one can add additional components like an auxiliary heater.

Then you can either tie a quiet blower and heater into the existing ductwork and heat or add outlets throughout the RV for space heater usage all using the park's power thus saving the propane.

Parrothead · 10-24-2006, 12:55 PM

When we had our other fifth wheel we didn't have a lot of plugs. We purchased a really heavy extension cord and ran it out the door under the sofa and plugged into the regular plug that is usually on the pedestal. We did come across a couple of CG where this was not the case but it does make for extra electric when it is available.
Happy trails.........................

RADHAZJOE · 10-24-2006, 10:44 PM

There are RVs that have heat pumps where the furnace is. The Alfa SeeYa does it that way and they have a propane furnace for really low temps.

Wrenchtraveller · 10-25-2006, 01:55 AM

Costco has a Heating and Cooling show and the rep told me I could run a heat pump with the back up electric furnace on a 30 Amp circuit. I have a 3000 sq ft. home. This does not sound right to me. I would think you need at least 50 amp. What do you think Ozz?

Ozz · 10-25-2006, 04:20 AM

I think the Rep. needs to stop smoking Crack.

Steve and Brenda · 10-25-2006, 01:11 PM

Depends if the heat pump for the house is 115 or 230 volts AC. Increase the voltage, less amperage is required. My home South Texas rated air conditioning unit consisting of the outside heat pump and interior blowers is circuit breakered at 40 Amps.

Ozz · 10-25-2006, 01:37 PM

The heat pump almost always needs the auxiliary heating elements, BUT, I guess it does depend on your area. I have talked to few people, none, happy with heat pump only warm air. Barely heated airflow with enough force to blow around a house, seems cool to us humanoids.

Steve and Brenda · 10-25-2006, 01:41 PM

Yep, I guess when its late October here in Abilene and its 80 degrees we don't need a super heating system.

Ozz · 10-25-2006, 02:05 PM

Steve, now you are making me jealous!
Ozz

Wrenchtraveller · 10-25-2006, 03:05 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by Ozz

I think the Rep. needs to stop smoking Crack.

LOL I think your right. Take care.

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