New Big Sky need some advice.

[bhoss1]

Well I took my new BIg Sky out this past long weekend and we do enjoy most of the improvements.
Some quick questions and advise needed.
First the BOOM. They did make it longer but it still will not hold the end fittings???. Very hard to get the fitting on the trailer with the flex pipe there also. Any Advice there???. It appears the the valves still leak when closed. Did the same on our 2010 3400RL.
The water connection to the fresh water and black tank flush leak. Did the same on our previous on also. Any help or advise would be great.
Really like the auto level system.
Thanks
Don

[DQDick]

Not sure what to tell you. I did have to change some hoses to get the boom to work the way I wanted it too, but have never had valves that failed to close. I was concerned about the continual on and off of the water hoses (possibility of cross threading and washers wearing out etc) so I put quick connects on them and when I pull the hoses to move I just slip a small rubber foot (bought them at the hardware store) over the end of the quick connect fitting so nothing gets in while we're going down the road.

[Carl n Susan]

The Boom - I worked with it rather than fighting it to see if I could make it do what I wanted. I added a external gate valve in front of the boom. This did require trimming off about 6 inches of the flex coupler to eliminate excessive compression of the coupler.

Leaky Valves - More likely the problem is the length of of the plumbing under the RV and the lack of slope results in undrained liquid after the valve is closed. This "stuff" manages to migrate to the end of the pipe when going down the road and manifests itself as a surprise when you remove the cap. The addition of a gate valve stops this.

Water Connections - Admittedly they are difficult to get tight and don't look like they will survive numerous attempts. DQDick has a great idea - use quick connect fittings. Once you have them tight and leak free, they don't have to be removed.

I really like Rhino hoses, but the 15' is a little too long to fit in the boom and the proprietary fittings don't allow for clear connectors (so you can monitor the output). I acquired a 10' Rhino hose which does fit in the tube. Others have installed a longer tube (available at Camping World) but in four months of use, the 10 footer has reached the sewer connector at every RV Park we have stayed except one (the connector was at the back of the site and we were there for only one night - no big deal). I did change the proprietary fittings for the conventional bayonet type so adding additional lengths of sewer hose is easy if needed. Changing the fittings has also enabled the use of a clear connector (at the end of the sewer hose in the boom).

After four months of continual usage I am satisfied with the sewer boom functionality and plan to keep it.

[dieselguy]

First issue ... remove boom and throw it in the nearest deep ravine. Some love it ... the rest of us jettison it. Install a door (at any RV store) in the lower sheet metal and store it like the hose used to be. I was always embarrassed by the residual water in the thing dripping while traveling down the road.
Second issue ... several of us use 2 hose washers in the inlet connection ... it stops the leak.

[mhs4771]

I did a combination, installed quick connect/disconnects on all water connections, and junked the boom as it was always pointing the wrong way, plus it was in the way when I had the Level-up installed. Our now SOB came with a boom and it to is in the junk pile, tried to use it, pulled the hose out and got it connected, but next morning the hose refused to go back in so off it came.

[richfaa]

If we ever get our new Big Sky we will evaluate the Boom.Sounds like it may go away.

[1retired06]

I am one of those who use the boom as designed, and I simply take two seconds to take the elbow off, and store. I like the fact that I do not have to keep disconnecting the hose from the holding tank.

[pineranch]

Put QD's on the water hoses.
Installed another gate valve on flange after shorting pipe and did as Carl. Removed lugs from Rhino, installed standard fittings so clear straight would fit. Installed longer tube purchased at CW. Did remove handle on one end so the flange would fit. Ground down boom swivel for additional throw and installed pip pin. Also installed additional bracket on I beam for boom support.
I have 12' of hose inside and almost 180 degree swivel. I carry additional 15' of hose in a carrier tube also purchased at CW. I've never had a problem with it.
Dieselguy is right on around 98% of the time, but wrong on his assessment of this mod.
Mike

[DQDick]

One other thing Dieselguy said that I would take issue with. Don't throw it in the nearest deep ditch. Those of us who clean campsites hate that and some of us are too old for deep ditches.

[richfaa]

Something for the Fall Rally If there is one would be feed back on the usefulness of the boom or modifications to the boom.. They usually listen to our feedback. We camp in many C.G's and the sewer hookups are many and different.We always position the camper so that the sewer hookup works befor we unhitch.
We did not think the boom was a good idea from the get go.

[swanny]

My boom looked very nice in the garbage, installed a fence post cover with doors.

[bhoss1]

Thanks for all the info." Diesel Guy" can you tell me what you are talking about installing a door in the sheet metal I have plastic in the bottom near the Boom. Any pics would be great.
Thanks Again

[snfexpress]

We use the boom but modified its use. We do not store our stinky slinky in it; rather we purchased a short length of hose with a rotating connector on one end (the end that connects to the trailer side) and put a gate valve on the other end as you can see in these pictures.





We kept the boom because I do not want to crawl under the slide (and ruin shirts). That is why we also installed an electric valve for the galley tank.

With the gate valve at the end, we can connect our Sewer Solution. For standard hose storage, we installed a 4 foot tube on the frame rail:



We store our Sewer Solution in the rear quarter panel. As DieselGuy noted, it does require cutting a rectangle in the sheet metal and installing a sewer door. We suggest you use stainless steel nuts and bolts rather than screws which can catch on the hose and possibly puncture it.

[dieselguy]

bhoss1 ... snfexpress has a good photo of what I'm talking of (last photo) My 3150 as did my 2980 has a radiused sheet metal extension below the fiberglass sides (you mentioned yours was plastic) that screws to the frame IBeams. Cut the hole in it and install the plastic door as in snfexpress's photo if you decide to go that route.
pineranch ... "didn't hurt" !