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Old 05-26-2009, 09:12 AM   #1
LonnieB
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Be Tire Smart

Here is a link to some tire information from the Rubber Manufacturers Association. Some of the information on this site is already well known to most RVers, but some of it isn't.

http://www.betiresmart.org/tire_safe...ce_and_safety/
 
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Old 05-26-2009, 09:43 AM   #2
Jolu
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LonnieB,

I bet this has been asked previously but, I missed it. Is it worthwhile to rotate the tires on the Monty?

Also please explain hub centric balancing. Thanks JB



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Old 05-26-2009, 10:43 AM   #3
LonnieB
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In my opinion it isn't necessary to rotate trailer tires UNLESS you start to notice unusual wear patterns. If an unusual wear pattern is starting, you should have the tires looked at by a tire professional to determine the cause before rotating the tires. Usually there is a mechanical or operator problem causing the unusual wear that will need to be addressed.

Hub-Centric Balancing - This method uses the pilot hole (large center hole) of the wheel. The wheel and tire assembly is placed on the shaft of the balance machine, then a cone shaped device is slid over the shaft into the hole in the wheel and secured by a large wing nut. This centers the assembly on the machine IF the pilot hole is the true center of the wheel. This method is the most commonly used and is accurate most of the time.

Lug-Centric Balancing - This method uses the stud holes of the wheel. A special adapter plate with adjustable threaded studs is mounted on the balance machine. The tire and wheel assembly is mounted to the adapter plate with lug nuts. This method is unquestionably the best and in some cases the ONLY way to get the assembly centered on the machine. This method is very time consuming so it isn't used much unless requested by the customer or the pilot hole in the wheel is off center.
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Old 05-26-2009, 11:05 AM   #4
Bill-N-Donna
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Thanks for the link!
Good information there.

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Old 05-26-2009, 11:16 AM   #5
grampachet
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We had a fleet of 1993 (I think they were 93 or near that) Dodge one ton duelys. That year the rear wheels did not have a centering method to keep them true. They did not have cone shaped lug nuts. After replacing all the rear TIRES as faulty the dealer finally received a set of tapered lug nuts to use to center the wheel and then use the original flat surfaced nut torqued down to keep wheels centered. This was a mfg fault which must have been corrected later. Your idea of balancing brought that problem to my mind. Using the tapered lug nuts would certainly give you a better and more true balance.
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Old 05-26-2009, 11:30 AM   #6
Glenn and Lorraine
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Great link Lonnie.

When you visit the link Lonnie posted you will see a link titled Tire Safety Quizzes
There are 4 different tests, lets see your tire knowledge.

I scored 100% but than again I did spend many years in the tire business.
Without cheating and if you dare post you score here.
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Old 05-26-2009, 12:00 PM   #7
indy roadrunner
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Lonnie thanks for the info link.
Glenn I missed 2 out of 16, I missed the mileage vs rotation question and measuring tread depth. Never heard of using a penny, I always carry a tread depth gauge in my truck.
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Old 05-26-2009, 02:04 PM   #8
Waynem
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16 out of 16.

Easy test.

Some good information. Thanks.
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Old 05-26-2009, 05:02 PM   #9
jackel1959
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Good info....I missed 1 out of 16.
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Old 05-27-2009, 02:21 AM   #10
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Surprised myself, got 15 out of 16. Must admit I have gained a lot of my knowledge from this MOC forum.

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Old 05-27-2009, 05:41 AM   #11
skypilot
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15 out of 16 -- read too much into the question on tire rotation .
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Old 05-27-2009, 08:03 AM   #12
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Thanks for the reply and info LonnieB.
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Old 05-27-2009, 08:06 AM   #13
NCFischers
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14 of 16. I learned something. Thanks for the quiz.
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Old 05-27-2009, 12:32 PM   #14
skypilot
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Just to add to LonnieB's answer on hub and lug centric. On my Mountaineer's steel wheels they had to be balanced lug centric -- I had the tire shop do one hub centric and then asked them to check it lug centric after I noticed the large amount of weight they had put on the tire. When they checked it lug centric it was way out of balance, so they removed the weights and rebalanced it lug-centric. Took less than an ounce inside and out to balance. Ran those tires for several years with no problems and no abnormal wear. As I recall, at that time we had a thread going talking about the value of each, difference of each, etc., and it was noted then, as now, that most of the steel wheels need to be balanced lug-centric; the alloy wheels hub-centric (better machining, manufacturing methods as I recall).
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Old 05-27-2009, 01:35 PM   #15
sreigle
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On our three Montanas I've found the same as skypilot. When the shop uses hub centric balancing they always say the rims are out of round and the tires as well and they can't accurately balance them. So now I always tell them to use lug centric balancing. If they give me a blank look, I go elsewhere.

Lonnie and Glenn and any other tire people, I've been told a couple of times that trailer rims are not manufactured to have the hole dead center since those rims are not centered by the hub when mounted to the trailer and that's why lug centric balancing of trailer tires is the only accurate method. I do not have the expertise to say that's true but it sounds reasonable to me. Based on earlier posts in this thread I think you agree with that? Thoughts? Thanks.
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Old 05-27-2009, 04:57 PM   #16
LonnieB
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Quote:
quote:By sreigle
Lonnie and Glenn and any other tire people, I've been told a couple of times that trailer rims are not manufactured to have the hole dead center since those rims are not centered by the hub when mounted to the trailer and that's why lug centric balancing of trailer tires is the only accurate method. I do not have the expertise to say that's true but it sounds reasonable to me. Based on earlier posts in this thread I think you agree with that? Thoughts? Thanks.
Steve, I do agree that the lug-centric method is the best and in most cases, the only way to balance steel trailer wheels. I don't know if it's because of the wheels not being centered by the hub, or just that they are allowed more tolerance in the manufacturing process. Alloy wheels are usually built to more exact standards with much closer tolerances, but even these are sometimes off a bit. There ARE trailers out there with hub piloted steel or alloy wheels, but they are usually on heavier trailers with 8000 pound axles. This type of wheel has the pilot hole exactly in the center and uses lugnuts with flanged washers built onto them. Of course these wheels have nothing to do with our Montanas.
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