Black valve replacement question

[Khbrooks]

Hello,
We are new to RV'ing and can't seem to install the new black water valve as there is not much room due to the 2 tanks. Have a 2006 3500RL and need help.
Thank you,
Karen

[prndl]

Where is there "not much room?"

[Khbrooks]

Between the black tank and where the new shut off valve goes.
We think we have a solution unless other advice. Bought a rubber coupling to put between the gray tank & shut off valve.

[Carl n Susan]

It really helps a lot if you tell us the year, make, and model of your Montana. With over 17 years of models and different brands, it is hard to give you an accurate answer.

But nevertheless here is one .I assume you have a newer, dropped frame Montana with the black and grey tank running longitudinally next to each other. If so the rubber "Nohub" connector is the way to go. I would cut the drain line downstream of the wye where the drains from each tank come together. That allows some flex in the drain lines, hopefully avoiding the dreaded crack at the outlet spud, besides making valve replacement a lot easier.

[Khbrooks]

Originally Posted by carl n susan

It really helps a lot if you tell us the year, make, and model of your Montana. With over 17 years of models and different brands, it is hard to give you an accurate answer.

But nevertheless here is one .I assume you have a newer, dropped frame Montana with the black and grey tank running longitudinally next to each other. If so the rubber "Nohub" connector is the way to go. I would cut the drain line downstream of the wye where the drains from each tank come together. That allows some flex in the drain lines, hopefully avoiding the dreaded crack at the outlet spud, besides making valve replacement a lot easier.

Hey Carl n Susan,
Thank you for the response. Sorry, I thought the year & model would be enough. Its a 2006 Keystone Montana 3500RL. I have been reading a lot of the maintenance questions tonight getting lots of good advice.
Thank you!

[Lenny K]

Don't know if this will help you, but it won't hurt to take a look at it to give you some ideas.

http://www.loveyourrv.com/rv-waste-t...cougar-276rls/

[Khbrooks]

Thanks Kenny K! I think that is the route Philip is going but I passed the link along to him. We have learned a lot in a short amount of time from this site.

Karen

[Carl n Susan]

I am sorry! I missed the part of the post where you stated the year and model of your rig.

The 2006 rigs had side by side tanks running from street side to curb side. It has been a while since I had one and I don't really remember the layout of the outlet system. But if you can find a place to cut the pipe and insert a runner "Nohub" connector, you should be ok.

[Khbrooks]

No worries Carl n Susan! Yes, I think that is what Philip is going to do as he thought of that yesterday then several of you suggested it so hopefully it will be fairly easy. Thanks for the input!

[astrungis]

Lenny K, Thanks for posting that article about the retro-fitting of the broken valve. I have the same problem. I could not replace the valve and gaskets properly because of the clearance allowed when Keystone assembled the "Y" in place between the black and grey tanks. Before we start out for a lengthy trip next month, I am going to tackle this problem once and for all!

[1retired06]

While doing that consider threaded rod direct pulls if you currently have cable. Have never regretted getting rid of the cable pulls on ours.

[Theunz]

When I replaced the cable on my grey water valve on my 2015 3100rl I just used a ratchet strap to pull the fitting back. You only need a quarter inch or so of clearance and there was enough flex in my plumbing to allow it. I don't think there was much more flex available, so if you try this method don't get heavy handed on the ratchet strap.
PS getting ready to replace both my valves with Valera valves since neither of my OEM valves have ever worked satisfactory!

[astrungis]

1retired06,
I was actually considering using threaded rod/cable to the shortest distance on the driver's side of the camper. This may not be the convenience center where the old pulls are located. My contention is that the longer the cable, the more strain and friction there is. There has to be a better way to make a sewer valve. Thanks everyone!

[Theunz]

Astrungis, on my set up the way the valves are installed would nessitate having one pull located on the street side and the other on the curb side if I went with solid rods. The problem arises because the valves are installed with the pulls facing each other. You would need to either install a lever to reverse the rods direction of pull on the grey tank or devise some linkage to route the rod under the plumbing for the black tank. If you have to go to that much trouble than electric valves could be a viable option.

[SRD]

Theunz, did you replace your valves yet? I have a 2012, same model as you and it takes me pulling with both hands to open both, black and gray tank valves. I was thinking about replacing both valves with Valera valves.

[mtlakejim]

What do y’all think about the electric valves?

[prndl]

I had Drain Master electrics in my previous 5th wheel, Carriage Domani, they were great. Push a button and out it comes. Never had a clog or seepage. Compared to Valtera they are spendy.
I replaced my OEM valves with Valtera in the Montana, however I did think about the electric valves.
With the electric valves you have to remember to only push the button for 2-3 seconds only. You will think that is not enough time but they are quick.

[twindman]

See my recent post about the Valterra valves. GREAT. I can literally pull them with one finger!!! My OEM was getting hard to pull, and lubed it up with cooking oil or valve lubricant you pour down the toilet. It was better for a while then started getting hard again. I was afraid I was going to be on the road and have the valve break. These valves are excellent!

[Theunz]

Originally Posted by SRD

Theunz, did you replace your valves yet? I have a 2012, same model as you and it takes me pulling with both hands to open both, black and gray tank valves. I was thinking about replacing both valves with Valera valves.

Yes, just finished up today. The Valterra works much easier than the OEM Bristol valves. The Bristol looks just as well built, maybe even a little better, as the Valterra. It seems that the Valterra's main advantage is that it uses a solid actuating cable vs the Bristol's stranded cable. Also the Bristol's mounting bolts ( which are higher quality shoulder bolts vs the Valterra's fully threaded bolts) are more sensitive to how much you tighten them. I used a 96" cable on the grey tank and a 72" on the black.

Some pictures to follow. Don't know how to make them show in the proper orientation!
Bristol on bottom

[Theunz]

Ratchet Strap from axle to Y pipe to gain clearance