Problems everywhere!

[Fire_Hazard]

Stopped by today before kids soccer game waited 20 minutes to get an update and had to leave to be on time. Still sitting in the repair line, hoping for results before Tuesday-Wednesday and the holiday weekend. As said before the dealer has bean stellar aside from not being able to fix it.

[jcurtis934]

There are two baffles behind the top vent needed for the norcolds. When you take the top vent off, at least the bottom part of the opening should be covered with its top bent inwards to almost touch the coils. Above the fridge there should be a baffle that seals off the fridge from the space above the coils and it curves outward in a smooth bend to just above the top of the opening...with lots of insulation behind it. Both of these baffles should be cavity width. The details of this were in the installation manual in all my docs. John

[jcurtis934]

Hope they can get the system to always level no matter what...but my bets are that the system may have a few bugs in the design yet given all the problems these are giving folks. This is what is known as the "bleeding edge" of technology. Think you have a handle on why it is so named. Repeat after me...."it is just a trailer...just a trailer" . John

[Fire_Hazard]

Trailer was suppose to be ready Wednesday for the holiday weekend, my sister went into labor and had a baby, so we held off leaving. Called this morning for pickup and they had reset the jacks, found a loose wire in the front AC, latches on the fridge and replaced toilet. Still no news on the break system they are still testing that so no holiday weekend in "The PIG"!

[tooth ferry]

x2 what jcurtis said. Very similar to Dometic instructions. Baffle at top of frig pointing toward side vent to direct air out. I used aluminum valley material available at Home Depot for about $12.for a 10 ft roll. only need about 3 ft.

[Bama Camper]

Fire Hazard, I had similar brake problems with my High Country, and chased the problem for months before resolving it.

After you have checked the 7 pin connector (male and female), and the crimp (and wire nut) connections in the junction box under the pin box where the truck umbilical is connected, then I would suspect the crimp on connectors somewhere in the trailer. Seems like Keystone has had problems with the ones they have been using the past few years. They will make a good connection initially, but then after a few months they corrode and cause a bad connection. Recrimping them works for a while, maybe a couple more months, but then they go back to being intermittent. With mine, the culprit connector was the large one that crimps two sets (one from each wheel) of brake magnets together with the main wire from the junction box in the front. On my trailer (model 305RL) this was on the driver's side, over the front wheel, underneath the coroplast. All the brake wires on this side run to this connector. There is one connector for the ground wires and one for the main brake line. It's the junction of all of the brake wires on that side. Mine was recrimped once, and that fixed my intermittent "disconnect" problem for a couple of months, but then the problem returned. The permanent solution is to eliminate all the crimp-on connectors and solder the connections.

It certainly sounds like a bad connection since you report it to be mechanically intermittent. It's difficult to troubleshoot intermittent problems, and sometimes the dealer has to be encouraged to pull part of the the coroplast down to access this area since it takes a little effort to do so.

[Fire_Hazard]

Well got "The Pig" picked up last night and it appears to be fixed. We will see when we get to the campsite. Everything work at the deler and in the shed.