Front leveler power failures - Montana Owners Club

49merc · 07-02-2014, 01:09 PM

I have a 2004 2955rl that has had this problem from day one. One of our first trips out we had a blown fuse in the motor circuit. The dealers repair for this was to take out the fuse and install an auto reset circuit breaker (50 amp). Ever since then over the years I keep frying the switch. The wires have also overheated. I've managed to repair the switch a few times but then I had to get a new one. Keystone only sells it with a complete wiring harness (appx $45). I installed just the switch and over time same thing. I have found other switches but they don't hold up either. The switch is rated at 20 amp and some 15 amp. Recently I installed the wiring harness and disconnected the c/b. Back to original problem of blowing the fuses. This all happens at the point when trailer is being lifted to the highest point and the motor is straining to drive. I also have a new battery fully charged and land powered along with the truck plugged in. Legs do not seem to have a bind nor do they appear to be bent. I am at a total loss at this point. Any suggestions?

commish · 07-02-2014, 02:07 PM

[img][/img]We have a 04 Montana 3295RK that we purchased about a year ago.
I noticed that the front landing hear did not have much range of travel and the lift motor would get warm when used more than one lift at a time. My investigations revealed that the motor had been replaced 2 years ago and all the visible lift moving parts had been lubed many times. Shortly after my inspection the fuse blew when running the landing gear. I replaced the fuse and it did not last. I jacked the front of the trailer up and put blocks under the frame so I could check out each side. I removed the connecting rod between the right and left landing gears to isolate the sides and found my problem was with the right side.
I removed the landing gear and fount that it was bone dry of grease (probably never greased from original assembly). I started by working it with WD40 and worked up to wheel bearing grease.
Replaced the fuse with a fresh 30 amp and it has worked like it should ever since.
I hope this helps and you can find all the pictures of the landing gear on the web.

49merc · 07-02-2014, 05:05 PM

Mike, thanks for the information. I was pretty much to the point that putting it on blocks was about all that was left so you confirmed that. The only thing different for me is we bought ours new and I've had this problem ever since but this could still be the problem. I was hoping there might be something else but I'm doubtful after your response so I guess I will have to do that. When you say the right side do you mean curbside or the opposite?

commish · 07-02-2014, 08:31 PM

Any thing I can share with you will help us both.
My dad told me even before I was old enough to drive is you look at the world from behind the steering wheel, he was an old days car guy, and the right side is the curbside.
When you have the trailer blocked, make certain that you are supporting under the steel frame of the trailer. When you remove the link rod, if you have only one motor to the landing gear you will be able to turn the landing pods up and down by hand. If you find that the motion of the turning is restricted in any way that is the side I would check.
On my 3295RK the landing gear was attached at the top and the bottom. If your trailer is configured like mine you can get to all the bolts by removing your LPG tanks. When the tank on the effected side has been removed you will see an upper and lower u-bolt type attachment of the landing gear to the trailer frame. You will remove the foot and the extension on the lg next. Loosen the bottom u-bolt and remove the upper.
After you have the gear on a workbench you will find it pretty simple to take the gears and shaft out. Use plenty of grease because you do not want to have to go back in.
I will keep an eye on this link so if you have questions I will try to Help. Mike

49merc · 07-04-2014, 09:18 AM

Thanks again Mike. Will let you know how it goes.

49merc · 07-07-2014, 04:24 PM

Mike, How far did you jack the trailer up? Just to where it is level or as far as the legs would raise it up?
Bob

commish · 07-07-2014, 08:12 PM

Hi Bob,
It isn’t important as to the level of your MH (Mobil Mansion) the important thing is the travel of the front landing gear. If you support your RV and take the load away from the landing gear you should be able to move the screw jacks smoothly up and down. If you notice any slowdown in the movement than you have a problem.
From your original post I think you need to look at the landing gear screw drive.
After we first talked I looked on the web and there is not much info available. It may be that you have an entirely different problem than I experienced.
Mike

**Carl n Susan** · 07-07-2014, 08:28 PM

Venture Manufacturing builds the legs for your Montana. They used to have a bunch of PDFs on their website that covered everything you wanted to know. If you can't find the information there then I made copies of the files you can use. They are stored at:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/kom2j96py...na?n=206716842

49merc · 07-10-2014, 01:45 PM

Thanks Carl. All good information to know.

49merc · 07-14-2014, 01:49 PM

Well I pulled both leg units out and no apparent problems with them. I greased (Venture says they are lifetime lubricated) the gear assembly on both of them but could not access the screw drive without total disassembly. It appears to be good though and they both very easily manually. No binds or anything. I also greased the gear drive and the gear drive of the motor. I made sure the ground wire on the motor made good contact. So I have to say I did not find anything wrong. The only thing left as far as I can see is the motor itself. Since this problem has been present since I bought the trailer new in 2006 that either its not the right motor for this unit or it is defective. It definitely is drawing too many amps. I hate the thought of buying a new motor only to find that's not the problem. So if nobody has any other ideas I guess that is what I will have to do.
Bob

jamesva · 02-21-2015, 10:24 AM

have 2009 3400rl, only one front landing gear goes up and down, this can not be normal. is their a fuse or something , notice the inside shaft spends toward the right one but nothing happens, I mistakenly tried raising the front landing while backs were down, but stop when i notice, can not believe only one legs lift the trailer, and then just drop the other to support it.

dieselguy · 02-21-2015, 12:21 PM

Quote "This all happens at the point when trailer is being lifted to the highest point and the motor is straining to drive." I may be interpreting this wrong, but when you say "highest point", I'm visualizing near the end of the legs upper extension point. Unless you're on very unleveled ground, when the front legs are at their highest point and straining the motor ... you're squatting the rear of the fiver pretty heavily on the suspension ... it will begin to draw a boat load of amps at that point. Did I not understand what you were telling us?
Jamesva ... you should really post your issue on its own in a separate topic. You either sheared one of the bolts in the cross shaft between either landing gear legs, or you sheared a pin or broke a gear in the leg that doesn't move.

CORattler · 02-21-2015, 01:25 PM

I believe there is a Cross-locker shaft of the landing gear mechanism that has a shear bolt that connects the shaft. Yours may have sheared. Both legs (if operating properly) will ascend and descend with activation of the motor.
Obtain the bolts and nuts at a True Value Hardware store.
The bolt or shear pin is a 1/4 x 3/4 Socket Shoulder Screw with 10-24 threads. The bolt has a 1/8" Hex wrench socket on the end. Use 10-24 Nylon insert lock nuts.
FYI, the threads are not part of the 3/4 length, just the shiny part.
NOTE: make sure it clears the Motor on the motor side. That side has the closest clearance.

jamesva · 02-21-2015, 03:21 PM

ave 2009 3400rl, only one front landing gear goes up and down, this can not be normal. is their a fuse or something , notice the inside shaft spends toward the right one but nothing happens, I mistakenly tried raising the front landing while backs were down, but stop when i notice, can not believe only one legs lift the trailer, and then just drop the other to support it.

Phil P · 02-21-2015, 10:24 PM

49merc

I sent you a PM.

Phil P

WaltBennett · 02-22-2015, 12:42 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by 49merc

The dealers repair for this was to take out the fuse and install an auto reset circuit breaker (50 amp). Ever since then over the years I keep frying the switch. The wires have also overheated. I've managed to repair the switch a few times but then I had to get a new one. Keystone only sells it with a complete wiring harness (appx $45). I installed just the switch and over time same thing. I have found other switches but they don't hold up either. The switch is rated at 20 amp and some 15 amp.

I'm fairly certain the single motor landing gear will pull more than 15 or 20 amps of current - that's why it's got a 50 amp breaker. One of my spring time jobs is to replace our 30 amp auto breaker with a 50 and some have even put in 80 amp ones. Don't know if you've other problems, but this is why your switch and wires are burning out.

mazboy · 02-22-2015, 05:36 AM

we had a 2010 3150 and we put a 50 amp fuse in the line too. the problem we had, other than the fuse blowing, was at times the trailer would not lift when there was weight on the legs! and that was without much such in the front. montana said that that shouldn't be that way but I was out in Maine!
I got fed up and just ordered a second motor and had two separate switches, one for each leg. It worked grat! of course it cost me over $1K to get it done.

clarkandsheila · 03-03-2015, 04:29 PM

May be too late but it sounds like the leg may have been running dry of lube.
--yearly I recoat the bevel gears with moly grease
--spray thoroughly the motor shaft bushings where it connects with the bevels. Same for the cross shaft and gear bushings.
--pour abut 2-3 tablespoons full of outboard motor gearcase oil, 80/90 wgt down the tube. A car rear end gear oil will do the same and may be easier to get depending upon where you are. I carry a small quantity with me. After this one I could hear a difference. Of course I had a bit of a mess after a day or two as the oil made it's way down the threaded shaft, tubes, and bearing below as it coated everything.

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