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06-20-2016, 05:32 AM
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#1
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Kent
Posts: 294
M.O.C. #6300
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Refir shuts off on Auto
I have a 2014 Mountainier and this past weekend my refir shutoff. I was plugged into 50amp power. Now it will only run when I have the LP turned on. I had my wife switch it to AC while I listened and when she did I heard it just click off. When I turn the switch on the refir to auto it just flashes back and forth to ac/auto before stopping completely. It works fine all week on LP. Any thoughts?
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06-20-2016, 06:15 AM
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#2
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Fort Wayne
Posts: 477
M.O.C. #17609
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Based upon what you are saying, the cooling system is fine and also it is getting good DC power to run the main control board that allows use of LP only. Have you confirmed the AC breakers aren't tripped? You can also confirm the AC is still plugged in if you can access it. The AC plug on mine is visible if you pull the lower outside vent (different 5ver but yours is probably similar). The Auto feature looks for presence of AC power first then switches to LP. Are you saying when you had it on Auto, it wouldn't even switch to LP? If that's the case, your past my debugging experience.
__________________
2016 Montana 3160RL w/MOR/Ryde IS and Disc Brakes
855W Solar System, TriStar MPPT-60 Controller, Magnum 2800W Inverter, 6 Trojan T-105REs
2015 Chevy Duramax SRW SB Crew Cab
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06-20-2016, 06:21 AM
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#3
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Kent
Posts: 294
M.O.C. #6300
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Thanks for your reply. Are the AC breakers inside the coach where the fuse box is and your last question is correct. When I put it on AC it wouldn't jump to LP. I had to manually switch it to LP
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06-20-2016, 06:39 AM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Pensacola (mail forward service)
Posts: 3,198
M.O.C. #13740
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When in auto mode and ac power goes away, it should switch over to propane...assuming propane is on. Failure to switchover to propane is logic board switching failure. Breaker for ac for fridge is inside in the front of the converter with others. If indeed it won't switch to propane when in auto, you have a board failure. Don't think air in line would prevent it as it does multiple retries. My guess. John
__________________
2012 F350 6.7 L dually, 2013 3800RE with 6 pt leveling, Sumitomo 17.5" load range h tires, Samsung 18 cu ft residential fridge, 8k Morryde I.S. with disc brakes. Full timing since 2012.
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06-20-2016, 07:57 AM
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#5
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Kent
Posts: 294
M.O.C. #6300
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Thx. Is the converter something I can replace easy enough? And I'm electrically challenged so here's a stupid question. Are the converters in the same box on my wall in kitchen where all the fuses are located?
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06-21-2016, 05:41 AM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Haysville
Posts: 4,261
M.O.C. #3085
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I doubt if anything is wrong with your converter. It is packaged in with the AC breakers and DC fuses. The only AC to your fridge is the power to the heating element itself ... all else is 12VDC powered ... circuit board, gas solenoid valve, interior light. Like mentioned a few posts up ... the cooling ability of your fridge seems functional since it runs OK on gas ... it's part of the controls that are at fault. It could be the board on the back of the fridge, the control switch assy on the front of your unit, the AC heating element itself. You can Google for a manual corresponding to your fridge model online to help you troubleshoot.
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06-21-2016, 06:11 AM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: McKinney
Posts: 7,133
M.O.C. #6433
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Have you verified you actually have AC power to the back of the fridge? The fridge is likely on a GFCI circuit, so you may have a GFCI outlet tripped. Although the fact it does not automatically transfer to propane does seem to point to a control board issue.
__________________
Bill & Patricia
Riley, our Golden
2007 3075RL (recently sold, currently without)
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06-21-2016, 06:41 AM
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#8
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Englewood
Posts: 3,095
M.O.C. #164
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Agreed make sure you have AC to the unit if so then check if you have AC power to the heating element if you do unplug check if you have continuity in the heating unit you do this with A Volt Ohm Meter no continuity in the heating element it needs to be replaced
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06-21-2016, 07:48 AM
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#9
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Olympia
Posts: 1,056
M.O.C. #9441
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If you need to replace boards I would install a board from these folks. http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com
__________________
2020 Ram 3500, 2022 Luxe 38GFB,2500w Solar with Victron equipment, Gen Y Pinbox
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06-23-2016, 09:46 AM
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#10
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Fayetteville
Posts: 4,200
M.O.C. #11401
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There is a glass fuse on back of fridge,it can cause this problem.
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06-23-2016, 10:08 AM
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#11
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Kent
Posts: 294
M.O.C. #6300
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How do u get to that?
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06-23-2016, 04:06 PM
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#12
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Pensacola (mail forward service)
Posts: 3,198
M.O.C. #13740
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If you have 120vac to the outlet behind the lower vent cover (plug something into it like a light so you can easily see that power is there)...then you should see a black box on the back of the fridge. 120vac and 12vdc go into this black box. 12vdc comes out to the gas valve, one high voltage cable comes out to spark the propane into flame when running off propane, and cables come out to the 120vac heater/s for running off ac. The cover will need to come off to see the fuses. There is one for 12vdc, which in your case is good, and one for 120vac. The cover tells you the amperage needed, if that fuse is blown. By the way, it is common practice not to connect fridges to gfci circuits since they sometimes go off for no apparent reason. John
__________________
2012 F350 6.7 L dually, 2013 3800RE with 6 pt leveling, Sumitomo 17.5" load range h tires, Samsung 18 cu ft residential fridge, 8k Morryde I.S. with disc brakes. Full timing since 2012.
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06-24-2016, 01:57 PM
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#13
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Nokomis
Posts: 464
M.O.C. #18144
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I had an issue with my fridge only working and cooling on propane in my old unit, ended up being the AC heating element, was replaced under warrantee, worked fine after that.
__________________
Ed
2016 Montana 3950 BR
2004 Montana 3650 RK
2019 Ram 3500 SRW Laramie CTD 6.7
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06-24-2016, 02:31 PM
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#14
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Kent
Posts: 294
M.O.C. #6300
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Until I go full time in 4yrs, I'm not apposed to using propane only for my weekend getaways until then. It's not under warranty and I invision a costly bill from an RV dealer. Could I hurt the refir using just propane
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06-24-2016, 02:34 PM
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#15
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Nokomis
Posts: 464
M.O.C. #18144
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if it is the element, its easy to replace, fully accessible from the back panel.
But to answer your question, no you cant hurt the fridge, its made to be used either way. How old is the fridge? Might be worth calling the fridge manufacturer and talking with them, see how much the parts are. Should be fairly easy to replace yourself.
__________________
Ed
2016 Montana 3950 BR
2004 Montana 3650 RK
2019 Ram 3500 SRW Laramie CTD 6.7
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06-24-2016, 02:36 PM
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#16
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Kent
Posts: 294
M.O.C. #6300
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It's a 2014. How do I check if it's the element?
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06-24-2016, 03:12 PM
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#17
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Englewood
Posts: 3,095
M.O.C. #164
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You need a continueity tester or an OEM meter.connect the probe of the meter to one of the terminals the other terminial with the continueity the meter will light or needle will move. What you are doing is checking if the element is conducting electricity it applies low voltage.
BE SURE ALL POWER IS OFf AC AND DC PRIOR TO TESTING THE ELEMENT
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06-24-2016, 03:24 PM
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#18
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Kent
Posts: 294
M.O.C. #6300
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Thanks to all of you. RV will be in the driveway in a week and I'll try to get to the bottom of this
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06-25-2016, 03:19 AM
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#19
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Englewood
Posts: 3,095
M.O.C. #164
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Here is an inexpensive continuity tester. I also recommend all RV owners should own a VOM. Volt Ohm Amp Meter with continuity testing function. and learn how to use it!
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Too...Q&gclsrc=aw.ds
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06-25-2016, 03:33 PM
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#20
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Nokomis
Posts: 464
M.O.C. #18144
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kdeiss got to it before me. that's what I would do.
A more barbaric way is to put the fridge on AC mode....hover a finger over the element in the back, if you feel heat coming off it, it is working, no heat, element don't work.
That being said, if you don't have a good multimeter in your camper tool kit, would be wise to invest in one, they come in hand for just about any issue you might have involving something electrical not working ( slides not working, fuses, landing gear, etc) The commercial electric brand at Home depot is reasonable, around $40 I think for the one I bought. use it all the time.
__________________
Ed
2016 Montana 3950 BR
2004 Montana 3650 RK
2019 Ram 3500 SRW Laramie CTD 6.7
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