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Old 06-20-2016, 05:32 AM   #1
jaybird
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Refir shuts off on Auto

I have a 2014 Mountainier and this past weekend my refir shutoff. I was plugged into 50amp power. Now it will only run when I have the LP turned on. I had my wife switch it to AC while I listened and when she did I heard it just click off. When I turn the switch on the refir to auto it just flashes back and forth to ac/auto before stopping completely. It works fine all week on LP. Any thoughts?
 
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Old 06-20-2016, 06:15 AM   #2
mjammersc
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Based upon what you are saying, the cooling system is fine and also it is getting good DC power to run the main control board that allows use of LP only. Have you confirmed the AC breakers aren't tripped? You can also confirm the AC is still plugged in if you can access it. The AC plug on mine is visible if you pull the lower outside vent (different 5ver but yours is probably similar). The Auto feature looks for presence of AC power first then switches to LP. Are you saying when you had it on Auto, it wouldn't even switch to LP? If that's the case, your past my debugging experience.
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Old 06-20-2016, 06:21 AM   #3
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Thanks for your reply. Are the AC breakers inside the coach where the fuse box is and your last question is correct. When I put it on AC it wouldn't jump to LP. I had to manually switch it to LP
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Old 06-20-2016, 06:39 AM   #4
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When in auto mode and ac power goes away, it should switch over to propane...assuming propane is on. Failure to switchover to propane is logic board switching failure. Breaker for ac for fridge is inside in the front of the converter with others. If indeed it won't switch to propane when in auto, you have a board failure. Don't think air in line would prevent it as it does multiple retries. My guess. John
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Old 06-20-2016, 07:57 AM   #5
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Thx. Is the converter something I can replace easy enough? And I'm electrically challenged so here's a stupid question. Are the converters in the same box on my wall in kitchen where all the fuses are located?
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Old 06-21-2016, 05:41 AM   #6
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I doubt if anything is wrong with your converter. It is packaged in with the AC breakers and DC fuses. The only AC to your fridge is the power to the heating element itself ... all else is 12VDC powered ... circuit board, gas solenoid valve, interior light. Like mentioned a few posts up ... the cooling ability of your fridge seems functional since it runs OK on gas ... it's part of the controls that are at fault. It could be the board on the back of the fridge, the control switch assy on the front of your unit, the AC heating element itself. You can Google for a manual corresponding to your fridge model online to help you troubleshoot.
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Old 06-21-2016, 06:11 AM   #7
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Have you verified you actually have AC power to the back of the fridge? The fridge is likely on a GFCI circuit, so you may have a GFCI outlet tripped. Although the fact it does not automatically transfer to propane does seem to point to a control board issue.
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Old 06-21-2016, 06:41 AM   #8
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Agreed make sure you have AC to the unit if so then check if you have AC power to the heating element if you do unplug check if you have continuity in the heating unit you do this with A Volt Ohm Meter no continuity in the heating element it needs to be replaced
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Old 06-21-2016, 07:48 AM   #9
Drifty1
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If you need to replace boards I would install a board from these folks. http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com
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Old 06-23-2016, 09:46 AM   #10
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There is a glass fuse on back of fridge,it can cause this problem.
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Old 06-23-2016, 10:08 AM   #11
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How do u get to that?
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Old 06-23-2016, 04:06 PM   #12
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If you have 120vac to the outlet behind the lower vent cover (plug something into it like a light so you can easily see that power is there)...then you should see a black box on the back of the fridge. 120vac and 12vdc go into this black box. 12vdc comes out to the gas valve, one high voltage cable comes out to spark the propane into flame when running off propane, and cables come out to the 120vac heater/s for running off ac. The cover will need to come off to see the fuses. There is one for 12vdc, which in your case is good, and one for 120vac. The cover tells you the amperage needed, if that fuse is blown. By the way, it is common practice not to connect fridges to gfci circuits since they sometimes go off for no apparent reason. John
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Old 06-24-2016, 01:57 PM   #13
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I had an issue with my fridge only working and cooling on propane in my old unit, ended up being the AC heating element, was replaced under warrantee, worked fine after that.
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Old 06-24-2016, 02:31 PM   #14
jaybird
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Until I go full time in 4yrs, I'm not apposed to using propane only for my weekend getaways until then. It's not under warranty and I invision a costly bill from an RV dealer. Could I hurt the refir using just propane
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Old 06-24-2016, 02:34 PM   #15
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if it is the element, its easy to replace, fully accessible from the back panel.
But to answer your question, no you cant hurt the fridge, its made to be used either way. How old is the fridge? Might be worth calling the fridge manufacturer and talking with them, see how much the parts are. Should be fairly easy to replace yourself.
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Old 06-24-2016, 02:36 PM   #16
jaybird
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It's a 2014. How do I check if it's the element?
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Old 06-24-2016, 03:12 PM   #17
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You need a continueity tester or an OEM meter.connect the probe of the meter to one of the terminals the other terminial with the continueity the meter will light or needle will move. What you are doing is checking if the element is conducting electricity it applies low voltage.
BE SURE ALL POWER IS OFf AC AND DC PRIOR TO TESTING THE ELEMENT
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Old 06-24-2016, 03:24 PM   #18
jaybird
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Thanks to all of you. RV will be in the driveway in a week and I'll try to get to the bottom of this
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Old 06-25-2016, 03:19 AM   #19
kdeiss
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Here is an inexpensive continuity tester. I also recommend all RV owners should own a VOM. Volt Ohm Amp Meter with continuity testing function. and learn how to use it!

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Too...Q&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Old 06-25-2016, 03:33 PM   #20
kozzy
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kdeiss got to it before me. that's what I would do.
A more barbaric way is to put the fridge on AC mode....hover a finger over the element in the back, if you feel heat coming off it, it is working, no heat, element don't work.

That being said, if you don't have a good multimeter in your camper tool kit, would be wise to invest in one, they come in hand for just about any issue you might have involving something electrical not working ( slides not working, fuses, landing gear, etc) The commercial electric brand at Home depot is reasonable, around $40 I think for the one I bought. use it all the time.
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