Slide Movement - Montana Owners Club

jjackflash · 07-15-2011, 08:19 AM

I have a 2008 3400,when my sides are out I can bounce my entertainment slide from the inside or outside. The slide acts like it's not extended all the way out.
When I feel from the inside,the right side is flush against the wall,but the left side feels like it needs to go out about an inch more to be flush.
Has any one adjusted their own slides? If so, whats the trick? I hate to take the trailer to a repair shop when it's something I might be able to do myself' Also I've checked and nothing is caught underneath.
One more thing,if I had to manually pull in the slides,where do I do this from?
Thanks for any replies!
Jack

Art-n-Marge · 07-15-2011, 10:01 AM

I can't comment about the slide-out adjustments but on my model of rig the slides can be moved in or out via a fitting on the motor where you put a drill and proper sized bit, then use the forward or reverse depending on which way you want to go. The information should be in the manual in the slide out section. If you don't have a manual, find out the brand and model of the slideout motor and a web search should find the information you need.

I would think that if the slide needs adjusting that using the drill override wouldn't help since the adjustment is what controls how much travel the motor works with.

I do know that adjustments can be made because there's a section about this in the manual, but I didn't read it that carefully because I hope to never have to worry about it. Hopefully someone else will post about that real soon. I do recall past posts on how this was done.

SlickWillie · 07-15-2011, 10:59 AM

I've adjusted our LR/DR slide. Where the slide attaches to the rack gears, one has an up/down adjustment, the other an in/out adjustment. You may then have to adjust the cylinder limit adjustments. Care must be taken there, due to the pressure the cylinder exerts. I feel sure the Lippert sheets have some procedure files.

jackel1959 · 07-21-2011, 08:59 AM

Jack,
Here is a link to the LIP Sheet addressing slide out room adjustment: LIP Sheet 0131. I don't know if that will correct the issue you are having though. On page 6 of my slide out manual it talks about how to manually retract the slides. If you don't have the manual, e-mail me and I will send it to you.

r,
Jack

snfexpress · 07-24-2011, 04:48 PM

Well, I just replaced a gear pack on the active rail and had to rebuild the drive shaft connecting the active rail to the passive rail because the 1/4 inch holes were galled and elongated due to the pressure exerted by the hydraulic ram. I found that the "slop" in the drive shaft was mainly responsible for the lack of sealing on the right side as you look at the Dining Room slide from the outside of the rig.

Because there was no anti-seize in the tube, it rusted together and wouldn't move (expand or contract its length), even under heat. So, I cut it off, added turned pieces to each end and reinforced the ends so that galling wouldn't occur in the future. This also allowed me to
regain expansion and contraction so that I could remove the drive shaft without having to remove a gear pack.

To replace the gear pack, you need to jack up the active rail just enough to take the pressure off the crown gear so that you can put the new one in which allows you to align the bolts. Make sure that you put a piece of wood, such as a 2x4 between your jack and the rack gears (or are they pinion gears?) You don't want to bust the teeth on the underside of the rail that the crown gear connects to. While under the slide, I removed all oil and grease from the rack on both rails.

Here are some pictures...

As the holes for the 1/4 inch bolts gall and elongate, the passive rail will have increasing slop. I would suggest you look at the ends of your drive shaft, remove the bolts and determine if the holes are still round. Once you have taken care of this problem, then you can adjust the active rail for proper in and out - forget about the passive rail at this point unless you might break something because of travel. If you don't want to add your own pieces to the drive shaft, order a new one from Lippert about every two years and replace.

Once you have the active rail in the right positions (in and out), then you can adjust the passive rail using a combination of 1/4 turns of the drive shaft when not connected to the active gear pack and the adjustment of the passive rail bolts that go vertically into the passive rail from the piece attached to slide wall. If this isn't clear, let me know and I will take some more pictures.

As an additional suggestion, put anti-seize on all bolts that you have to adjust, including the piston threads itself. Mine took 2 hours of working just to get one nut to turn on the shaft. So, maintenance in the future will include anti-seize after a shot of PB which helps to break the rust bond.

If some of my words are a little off, please excuse me because I am not a mechanic. I do have to say that our slide is now working better than it ever has although there is still some adjustment that should be done. I'm just too tired to continue at the moment.

jjackflash · 07-24-2011, 07:04 PM

Thanks Michael for the detailed description,I do appreciate it!
Jack

jackel1959 · 07-25-2011, 05:05 AM

Michael,
Great presentation, explanations and photos. All of my slides, with the exception of the bedroom, are off kilter as well. I will be taking a look to see if I can adjust the passive side and also check the drive shaft holes. When you get a chance could you take a photo or two of how you modified your drive shaft and post them? One last question, before you did the adjustment how did the slide look when it was closed? Mine are tight and flush when in the closed position.
Thanks again,
Jack

snfexpress · 07-26-2011, 06:22 AM

I welded additional turned shafts and on the active rail side, I also added a large nut that is welded to the end of the drive shaft.

Because I still have some gap in the inside of the DR slide at the entry door, I added some foam insulation tape about a third of the way up from the bottom. No binding and no draft.

My slides are tight when closed which is my preference.

jackel1959 · 07-27-2011, 05:40 PM

Michael,
Thank you for the additional photos and the answer to my questions.

r,
Jack

snfexpress · 07-28-2011, 01:22 PM

Jack,

That's what the MOC membership is all about. I've yet to find someone who is selfish and only takes information on this forum. Glad to have helped.

Just a reminder to all...If you don't do something to reinforce the large DR slide, the torque and magnified force will elongate the holes in the drive shaft requiring you to purchase a new one from Lippert. Oh, could this be a planned design flaw?

Nighthawk · 08-10-2011, 08:12 PM

Michael, does the gear pack require lubrication/grease as it appears like there is a bearing on each side of the gear?

Wayne

snfexpress · 08-11-2011, 02:49 PM

The plastic (?) rollers on each side of the gear do require a drop or two of Mobil 1 oil as recommended by Lippert. I prefer a dry lubricant which has worked well for me.

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