New 2017 305RL - Lippert "LF Error"

[Ram Montana High Country]

During Auto Level - over 50% of the time unit gets an LF Error. Have to extend front and back jacks 6" and press and hold RETRACT button until it starts to retract and then it full retracts all, clears the error. Then raise the front an the hit auto level - might or might not complete - what am I doing wrong? Heard a POP Sound from the pump compartment once ... ideas?

[1retired06]

Not sure this is the answer, but we found that for auto level to work, I have to raise the front several degrees higher than the rear, before auto level will work because front jacks have to drop way way down, a full retraction, or I get an error read.

[timandpeggy]

I have the same issue about every 6-8 cycles. Reset the system per the manual, and wait for the next failure. I'm going to ask why this is a common issue (talked with other High Country as well as SOB's), so as far as I'm concerned (being an Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic as well as an Inspection Authorized FAA individual for over 30 years), it is an engineering issue. The engineers don't like a "knuckle dragged" telling them they have a problem, but it won't be the first time.

[Gwvet830]

I also have the same problem with mine . At first I though I was doing something wrong. But I did what the book said . My next step was to take it back to a dealer and watch them scratch their head. Mine is a 2018 High Country . HM381 T.H.

[BuilderBob]

When you unhook from your truck you need to be at least 6" high in front so when you auto level the front jacks can drop 3" lower than normal to start auto leveling if you don't
it can through error codes. Make sure your truck is not under the front of the 5th wheel
saw a guy do that and it made a mess.

Bob & Carol
Washington ST
2017 352RL 2008 Dodge 3500 DRW crew cab 4x4 LB 6.7L

[mootana]

The High Country product has the ELECTRIC leveling system. I've seen several customers have problems due to not lowering the front jacks (outer sleeve) enough before you drop the legs. This causes the front legs to bottom out on the spring loaded jack pin pulls. If you pull the pins and use all of the inner tube length to unhook, you will have problems. Hydraulic leveling won't have the Jack pin to bottom out on. I hope this helps.

[mtlakejim]

Well seems fairly obvious this is a universal problem with the electric system!!! I have a 2018 381TH as well! I posted same sort of issues on an earlier thread. It should be mentioned that we have tried several different types of leg blocking scenarios to get the system to work but to no avail. and have tried not letting the front jacks touch the ground to start with as well......the system just seems to be very limited and not at all user friendly!

[Jimmy2546]

Unhitch the rig. But before grounding the front jacks pull the pins on the front jacks outer sleeves and let them drop to where you have about 4 to 5 inches of travel area under each one. I just use my fist. Then reinstall the pins and ground the front jacks. After grounding the front jacks step away from your rig and look at it. If the rig looks fairly level or slightly front high you should be good to go. If the front is low you will need to let the front jack sleeves fall closer to the ground before locking the pins. Depending on how much sag your truck has you may need to raise the front another inch or two to unhitch smoothly. Now the trick to auto level is to carry about 12 cut 2X10's with you. Step away from your rig and look at it in all directions. Place the 2X10's under the jacks so that all the jacks will travel about the same distance to level its self. The same rule applies to the front jacks but you don't need the wood because the front jacks have the adjustable sleeves. I have had no problems with auto level using this method. My unit is a 381TH. The one thing to remember is that there is no such thing as a level site pad.

[mtlakejim]

Jimmy,
Thanks for the suggestions. I already have the 2x10s from my last 5th wheel that did not have auto level and I have in fact tried to use them somewhat as you suggest except that I was focused on trying to just make sure that each jack would hit the ground in about the middle of it's stroke or where I thought it would have plenty of stroke to reach level (IE: if the rear of the unit was way up in the air I would use more blocks). My main objective was to try to make sure that the jacks would not run out of stroke in either direction during the process. Am I focused on the wrong thing? Should I be looking at making sure that all jacks are extended the same amount? That doesn't seem to make sense to me as you would expect that each jack might be slightly different even on nearly level pad.


Regardless, I am not very impressed with the electric version of this system. I have seen the hydraulic version on several rigs and they seem to work a whole lot better...

[Jimmy2546]

That's exactly how I do it. There is no way they will all be the same. I have had no issues with mine as long as I use the wood and start with a slightly raised front and enough room for the front to lower first. That's why you need to have about 5 inches of travel on the front jacks before pressing the ground front jacks button.

[jgeorger]

Agreed, my Electric Lipperts are a huge disappointment, Perpetual LF error message. I level manually with a bubble...

[sdunkley]

Originally Posted by Jimmy2546

Unhitch the rig. But before grounding the front jacks pull the pins on the front jacks outer sleeves and let them drop to where you have about 4 to 5 inches of travel area under each one. I just use my fist. Then reinstall the pins and ground the front jacks. After grounding the front jacks step away from your rig and look at it. If the rig looks fairly level or slightly front high you should be good to go. If the front is low you will need to let the front jack sleeves fall closer to the ground before locking the pins. Depending on how much sag your truck has you may need to raise the front another inch or two to unhitch smoothly. Now the trick to auto level is to carry about 12 cut 2X10's with you. Step away from your rig and look at it in all directions. Place the 2X10's under the jacks so that all the jacks will travel about the same distance to level its self. The same rule applies to the front jacks but you don't need the wood because the front jacks have the adjustable sleeves. I have had no problems with auto level using this method. My unit is a 381TH. The one thing to remember is that there is no such thing as a level site pad.

Not sure I’m reading this right. I don’t see how you can pull pins with the rig unhitched.