Wall flexing when operating slide

[CT Wanderer]

Old Okie, Glad you got yours fixed. Interesting how my dealer got different instructions from Keystone on the fix. Mine was welded and yours was a steel bracket fix. Sounds like the broken weld was in the same location as mine. Hope this thread helps others with the same problem to get theirs fixed.

I agree with you that Keystone/Montana is listening to us owners and probably doing better quality control at the factory as evidenced by the now 3 year structural warranty.

Thanks again to Keystone/Montana for monitoring this forum, taking action and backing up their product.

[Old Okie]

C T Wanderer,
I would have preferred a welded joint. However, I think the decision to weld or go with bolted is based on dealer capability. All the parameters have to be right to get an aluminum weld right (knowing the alloy, having the correct welding procedure, qualified welder, etc.). I expect, but don't know, that Keystone came up with the welded solution where there was doubt. The dealer also mentioned there was some risk of damaging other parts of the trailer because of the heat of the welding. Just hope either works long term.

I have a separate question based on the tow rig you used--which really doesn't belong on this forum. I noticed you use a 3500HD GMC Denali SRW. I use a 2500HD Chev Silverado. I realize I'm really close on allegedly allowable pin weight with this trailer on my truck. However, I've run this setup all over the Western US, including up and down the steep side of I-70 over Keystone Pass in Colorado. The truck seems in no way overloaded, and automated grade/exhaust braking works great. Not one white knuckle moment.

My question is, did you go with the 3500 because of the 305RL's hitch pin weight?

Thanks,
Old Okie

[Loneoak]

I'm gld to hear you got the problem fixed.



We finally got our money, thanks to a Keystone person following this thread.

[CT Wanderer]

Originally Posted by Old Okie

C T Wanderer,
I would have preferred a welded joint. However, I think the decision to weld or go with bolted is based on dealer capability. All the parameters have to be right to get an aluminum weld right (knowing the alloy, having the correct welding procedure, qualified welder, etc.). I expect, but don't know, that Keystone came up with the welded solution where there was doubt. The dealer also mentioned there was some risk of damaging other parts of the trailer because of the heat of the welding. Just hope either works long term.

I have a separate question based on the tow rig you used--which really doesn't belong on this forum. I noticed you use a 3500HD GMC Denali SRW. I use a 2500HD Chev Silverado. I realize I'm really close on allegedly allowable pin weight with this trailer on my truck. However, I've run this setup all over the Western US, including up and down the steep side of I-70 over Keystone Pass in Colorado. The truck seems in no way overloaded, and automated grade/exhaust braking works great. Not one white knuckle moment.

My question is, did you go with the 3500 because of the 305RL's hitch pin weight?

Thanks,
Old Okie

I bought the truck before I decided what trailer I was buying. I knew what size trailer I was looking for and what I would need to tow it. I decided to get a 3500 to be sure I had enough truck. Really glad I did as I feel very comfortable towing with it. All my camping friends recommended buying the camper first and then the truck to tow it. In a perfect world that would be the way to go but I was looking for a 1-3 yr old truck to keep the initial costs down and I found the truck first. Not easy finding a decent diesel truck with everything I was looking for so I had to act quickly. That being said my next truck will be a new one. Although the initial cost was less I started with a 3 yr old truck and have had to do regular maintenance (brakes, tires etc.) items sooner than if it were new.