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09-21-2006, 07:46 PM
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#1
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New Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location:
Posts: 3
M.O.C. #6118
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Winterize Montana
When I picked up my Montana the guy told me how to winterize the Montana. Of course that was months and months ago. Does anybody have a good list or instructions on how to winterize a Montana?
TMF
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09-22-2006, 03:48 AM
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#2
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Lovettsville
Posts: 228
M.O.C. #359
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Check out the following sites
The only things missing are that there is a pressure release button behind the screen on the city water inlet you need to push (you will get a little wet) and
I have a quickie flush on my black tank and I blow the water out of it.
I usually just put the anitfreeze in without blowing out the lines and have had no issues but thats a personal call
http://www.rvsecrets.com/winterize.htm
http://www.2rvguys.com/winterize.html
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09-22-2006, 04:39 AM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Manhattan
Posts: 1,144
M.O.C. #1846
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What do you recommend if you have a washer? As I recall, I'm to add a gallon of antifreeze to the drum, to the lines and then run the washer for a few minutes (do not let it drain) but it needs to add water to pull antifreeze in thru the hoses and valves and put into the pump and internals. Does this sound correct?
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09-22-2006, 05:32 PM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: King George
Posts: 688
M.O.C. #345
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There has been several replys to winterization of the Montanas. This iswhat I do and it is probably an overkill, but I have never had a problemby doing it this way. First I switch over the hotwater tank and open the drain bolt on the tank. Secondly, I blow out the lines with my compressor. Then using 6 gal of antifreeze, I start with the washer/dryer and set the setting on warm. that way the pump pumps antifreeze thru both lines into the washer. Then when I can see the pink antifreeze in the washer, I switch it over to drain so the antifreeze goes thru the plastic pump and into the drain line to the tank. Now I am ready to winterize the rest of the trailer. I start from the furtherest sink or shower. I run the antifreeze in both the cold and hot lines. I move to the shower, and then to the toilet, and finally to the sink in the kitchen. I then go outside and do the same thing to the outside shower. With that all done, I pour a cup in each drain. Finally, I pour a gal into the fresh water tank. By letting a little antifreeze go into my black water tank and both gray water tanks when I am running the faucets. I then kick the tires until we go to Florida in January to finish out the rest of the winter. When were out of the freezing weather, I drain all of the tanks, switch over the hotwater tank, and flush out the water tank with a little bleach to kill any germs before I use it. I know it a lot more than some do, but to me its a lot cheaper than replacing water lines. I have had one freeze up on an older trailer one time.
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09-24-2006, 12:53 PM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Drexel Hill
Posts: 897
M.O.C. #627
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I have the splendide 2001 model washer/dryer.from thier web site for winterizing it says to pour about 1/2 quart of antifreeze in the drum.turn the knob to the spin cycle-push the on button.let it run for a minute or 2.turn off the washer/dryer.Disconnect the hoses and drain out any remamining water.This is the procedure i followed last winter and all is well.I guess their are differnt ways to do it but this was what I did.
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09-24-2006, 01:56 PM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Englewood
Posts: 3,095
M.O.C. #164
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by dbrill
Check out the following sites
The only things missing are that there is a pressure release button behind the screen on the city water inlet you need to push (you will get a little wet) and
I have a quickie flush on my black tank and I blow the water out of it.
I usually just put the anitfreeze in without blowing out the lines and have had no issues but thats a personal call
http://www.rvsecrets.com/winterize.htm
http://www.2rvguys.com/winterize.html
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If you blow out your lines you do not have to deal with the valve on the city water inlet been doing this for over 20 Years with no problem
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09-30-2006, 07:24 AM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Castle Rock
Posts: 1,338
M.O.C. #4624
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Question on the city water inlet check valve. I didn't do that portion last year and I read about it this year so I thought I'd try it but I think I broke the check valve. It doesn't hold back now, as long as the pump is on water is "reversed" through the city inlet. Is it just a matter of next spring when I hook it up to city water the valve will be ok, or did I break something.
Tell me it's ok.
mac
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10-01-2006, 02:36 AM
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#8
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Established Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Plymouth
Posts: 44
M.O.C. #161
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Remember this!!!!!!
Before depressing the white city water inlet check valve you have to make certain the water pressure has been released. Simply go back inside the trailer and open up a cold water faucet, this will release the water pressure and prevent the check valve from "exploding".
Garry
(RnR)
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10-01-2006, 05:49 PM
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#9
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Castle Rock
Posts: 1,338
M.O.C. #4624
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Gary,
My trailer is in storage and not at the house. So are you saying that I haven't "broken" anything? If I open the cold faucet it will take the pressure back off the check valve and everything will be ok??
Let me know, please.
Thanks,
mac
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10-01-2006, 07:46 PM
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#10
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Lone Tree
Posts: 5,615
M.O.C. #6109
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Mac,
I think he means you broke it. Evidently you need to release pressure first. I would try hooking up the city water in the spring and work the valve back and forth between the city water pressure and pump pressure to see if you can get it to seat again.
I've never drained the city connect - didn't know you could. I was about to try it but I broke my key in the door. Guess its a good thing. I'll have to remember to bleed off the pressure.
Brad
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10-02-2006, 03:31 AM
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#11
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Castle Rock
Posts: 1,338
M.O.C. #4624
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Brad,
I've never drained that either and in all my years never had a problem but I heard it could happen so I thought maybe I should. So I ended up causing myself additional problems and expenses anyway.
mac
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10-02-2006, 08:48 AM
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#12
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Englewood
Posts: 3,095
M.O.C. #164
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If you blow out your lines you do not have to deal with that check valve.Never have in over 20 Years
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10-02-2006, 08:11 PM
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#13
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Pasco
Posts: 986
M.O.C. #5972
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Question...why worry about blowing out the lines if you are going to run anti-freeze into them anyway? The anti-freeze will be everywhere the water is except the check valve for the city water input line. Help me understand this a little better.
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10-03-2006, 12:06 PM
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#14
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Marysville
Posts: 147
M.O.C. #2334
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Mike,
I believe blowing out the line ensures that no water will be left in "pockets" in the hose. If the lines have 100% antifreeze put in them, then it wouldn't matter.
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10-03-2006, 01:08 PM
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#15
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Brownsburg
Posts: 1,186
M.O.C. #5634
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Mike, I just returned from my dealer. I dropped the Monty off for some minor warranty stuff that we have been saving all summer and he was in the process of winterizing units on his lot. We were talking about this same subject and all he is doing is pumping the pink stuff through the system. He doesn't blow the lines - his reply - "what do you think the antifreeze in for?"
Make sure each faucet has pink stuff running, outside shower, even the low water drain, then add a little to the fresh water and Black and grey tanks. Allow plenty to run though the faucets to allow pink stuff in the traps. "Pink Stuff cheap - broken lines - expensive."
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10-03-2006, 01:16 PM
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#16
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: _
Posts: 5,238
M.O.C. #6337
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Think it ends up being personal choice, whether to blow out lines or just pink em.
Many moons ago, when we had pressurized steel (or some metal) tanks, then it was blow out the lines, and it worked, well, most of the time, you still heard of people that had broken/frozen/expensive to fix water lines come spring.
Since the metal tanks left the RV industry and plastic ones arrived, Al and I have been using the pink, making sure all faucets run pink, add pink to the traps and toilet.
Last thing he does when he is in the process and all lines are full, etc, he turns off the pump, releases the pressure in lines by opening the faucets, and then goes out and pushes on that little valve.
Has worked well for us, and that is what counts, eh??
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10-03-2006, 02:14 PM
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#17
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,700
M.O.C. #5751
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As noted above, you do one method or the other not both. The only exception being if you choose the blowout method, some pink stuff still must be dumped in all the water appliances that have the traps...because they will still have water in them, the air does not go there.
Dealers like the pink stuff...they buy quantity and charge the RVer more than they pay, thus generating a bit of extra revenue. They can't charge for air.
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10-03-2006, 02:27 PM
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#18
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Castle Rock
Posts: 1,338
M.O.C. #4624
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Cat,
Maybe they'll start blowing them out with Nitrogen.
So to get back to my problem...... am I going to have to replace that city water inlet next spring???
mac
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10-03-2006, 02:37 PM
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#19
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: North Ridgeville
Posts: 20,229
M.O.C. #2839
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We use the pink stuff..We always overdo it and add more than is necessary but it is a low cost insurance policy.Tell you the truth don't think I would want to put to much pressure in the lines and tanks..might do more damage than the freezing.
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10-03-2006, 02:55 PM
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#20
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: _
Posts: 5,238
M.O.C. #6337
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Mac,
As insurance, think we would have a spare valve in our hands before adding water in the spring. If ya get lucky, you won't need it, but if you don't have one in hand, Murphy will strike, you can be sure of that!
Carol
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