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Old 07-17-2022, 03:57 PM   #21
Camp CA
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You can tow it with your 2500 gaser but not enough safety margin in my fith wheel towing experience.
 
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Old 07-17-2022, 04:36 PM   #22
Mikelff
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Originally Posted by LilRedLX92 View Post
Thank you , this is awesome!!!
LilRed, the other posts are correct in that you should be fine with a 3500 4wheel truck. Your current 2500 can certainly pull the 5er. Question is can you “carry” the weight. Even if you are heavy, you NEVER should carry anything over your RGAWR weight rating. I made the mistake of buying my truck before I bought my 5er. My truck has been modified and modifications DOT certified to now carry my 5er. I am still at the upper limit of my modifications so I am careful about how much weight I add and carry minimal water while traveling. Long story, but you haven’t bought your 5er yet, So you have a decision to make. Buy the 5er knowing you need to upgrade your truck, or don’t buy the 5er. Obviously, it sounds like you are prepared to upgrade your truck, but make sure that is what you are going to do before you buy that 5er. Good luck and happy camping.
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Old 07-17-2022, 06:49 PM   #23
wade
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I haven't actually done any research on this because I'm not in the market for a new truck but I've been told the only difference between a 2500 HD and 3500 HD both SRW is the springs. Everything else is the same comparing apples to apples
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Old 07-17-2022, 07:11 PM   #24
beeje
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I can tell you with absolute certainty that there is a huge difference going from a single rear wheel truck to a dually.
The difference is night and day in stability.
With that being said I have a friend who tows a momentum toy hauler with a 2500 Chevy truck I believe it's a 19.
His payload sticker is slightly under 2K. He called me the weight police and that was the end of it. Lol.
To me it's all good as long as there's not any problems like an accident. If somebody wiped out in front of me because they're rig was severely overloaded I'm sure there would be plenty of money-hungry lawyers to take that case. Should be pretty damn easy to prove if the dry weight of the camper alone is more than the cargo carrying capacity of the truck
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Old 07-17-2022, 07:47 PM   #25
Jamesb
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Rick, Your story is close to ours years ago. I’ll let the weight police and the dually worshippers beat you up, but we just wanted you guys to step back, slow down, and look at other models. We did purchase our dream monster of a FW with a 2500 SRW. We towed it for about a year. We knew we had went too big for the truck. So, we couldn’t haul any water, never wanted anyone to ride in our crew cab, haul anything in the bed, always had to dump tanks, etc. It just was not living, and only worrying. YES, the truck will pull it, but you will definitely always be on your toes. Especially stopping distance. If you do purchase, get things loaded with everything, passengers, full tank diesel, a little fresh water, and finally go to the scale. It won’t lie. It’ll hurt your feelings. I really don’t trust manufacture dry weights anymore either. Just don’t get in a hurry and purchase. Good luck and be safe.
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Old 07-17-2022, 08:11 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wade View Post
I haven't actually done any research on this because I'm not in the market for a new truck but I've been told the only difference between a 2500 HD and 3500 HD both SRW is the springs. Everything else is the same comparing apples to apples
Correct & possibly tires.
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Old 07-17-2022, 09:14 PM   #27
Bill and Lisa
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You have more room on your combined vehicle weight rating than you think. You calculated the truck fully loaded at 11350 and the 5er at 16000 and that put you at 27350 vs your limit of 27500 BUT you are double counting some weight! You only have 7000 lb axles so 2 axles can carry up to 14,000 lbs. the rest is carried by the truck - the pin weight. So don't count 2800lbs of pin weight as part of your truck cargo AND still count that weight as part of your trailer. You will be over or real close on your truck GVWR depending on what your pin weight is and other stuff in the truck. You can help yourself in that department if you go a gooseneck hitch (https://www.parleysdieselperformance...xoCsa4QAvD_BwE) which only weighs 35lbs compared to around 160 lbs for a Curt A20 hitch.
Based on the brochure figure of 2810 lb for the hitch weight you will be over your max payload of 2775 which was figured from the curb weight - don't know if they have max fuel included in that weight or not but definitely not a driver. As others have said, an actual weight is good data. Your rig could easily be lighter (or heavier) on pin weight than the brochure. Only you can decide how much (if any) over the GVWR you are comfortable with. Your biggest "overage" is going to be on your rear axle weight rating. it is only 6600 lbs. You need to weigh your truck by itself and see how much weight is on the rear axle already but it will be somewhere around 40% of the curb weight (.4 x 8266 = 3307lbs). Adding a pin weight of 2810 (depending on where your hitch is mounted relative to the rear axle some of that weight does get transferred to the front axle but not much) you are at 6117 lbs. You still have to add people, pets, things you carry in the truck that were not part of the curb weight and in most cases you will exceed that axle rating. Saving 150lbs in your choice of hitch and be a key choice here as the hitch is pretty much all on the rear axle. Some other choices you can make to lower your risk/increase your comfort is to add air bags (firestone makes some) to the rear axle. When you inflate them they raise the rear of the truck up a couple of inches and shift some weight to the front axle. I had them on my 2001 Chevy 2500 HD but have not put them on my 2020 GMC Denali 2500. The reason is the new Chevy/GMC 3/4 tons have very high side walls on the bed of the truck. I had to lower my king pin to the lowest (highest?) position to get 5 inches of clearance between the bottom of the monty's overhang and the corners of the truck bed (probably worse for me with an 8 foot bed). As a result my monty is not "level" when I am towing it but is slightly higher in the front than the back. This probably helps reduce my pin weight a bit by shifting weight to the trailer axles. Bottom line, stickers and brochures give you a pretty good idea of weights but nothing beats actual scale readouts. Once you KNOW what YOUR numbers are, you can decide what actions you can take to make your numbers better. (air bags, change hitch, etc.). In hindsight I would/should have purchased the 3500 srw truck - turns out the sticker price was only $600 more but I was already in shock at the price of the 2500 and "assumed" the 3500 would be another 8-10k more - I was wrong.
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Old 07-18-2022, 06:42 AM   #28
Robinpterp
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The split between "you're fine" and "you're overweight" posts here should give you your answer. Can your current truck tow it? Probably. Should you tow it? Probably not.

We looked for several years before purchasing our Montana, and prior to that spent several months looking for a diesel dually that we knew without a doubt could handle the weight. We looked a bit overcautious towing a 30 foot TT with the dually for a year, but we are 100 percent comfortable towing our 16k lb Montana with it.

I understand falling in love with a particular model and I hope you find something that you love just as much that is well within the capabilities of your truck.
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Old 07-18-2022, 03:53 PM   #29
makeithappen
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Here are my real weight numbers. one is truck alone & other is with 5th wheel hooked up. While I think your truck is probably not enough that is for you to decide. I know that a DRW truck does not bother me, and I new I was going to have a aux. fuel tank & tool box in bed as well as hitch etc.. My pin is 3420lbs. Truck 13480lbs. GCW of truck 14000lbs.As you can see the numbers show I have extra weight in my truck while the trailer is well within limits. Pin weight and all the other things you are going to put in your truck are the issue.
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