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Old 09-20-2019, 10:12 PM   #21
rohrmann
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M.O.C. #12947
There isn't a lip on the race, as it is machined straight on the surface that goes into the bore inside the hub, but there are several curved areas inside the middle of the hub that are there for a punch to contact the edge of the race, both the inner and the outer races, and you just alternate from one to another tapping the punch and this moves the race out of the bore. Going back with a new one, you just place the race at the bore and start working it into the hub, and keep tapping it until it is seated. I've never looked, but like most things, there is probably a youtube video on this procedure.
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Old 09-21-2019, 11:07 AM   #22
shovelhead86
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M.O.C. #10985
Never ever change only the bearing. They are made in matched sets and need to be replaced and worn in together.
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Old 10-17-2019, 06:40 AM   #23
masterdrago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richfaa View Post
Most if not all Timkin bearings are made in China
My recently purchased Timkins are etched/stamped USA.
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Old 10-17-2019, 07:52 AM   #24
Dave W
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I have no idea who (or where) made the races in my disc brake rotors but put Timken Cones (USA made) in. At ~3000 miles this past spring, everything looked like new. After another 3000 or so miles this year will be checking them again in the spring.


Timkens seem to be the favorite for RV but others lke Fafnir, SKF, Bower and so on are also available, using the standard bearing designations. My history with the Dexter OEM is not good. At ~ 3500 miles after buying the RV new found one that was chipped, another with a circumferential gouge around the rollers and a 3rd that was turning blue. Dexter - you did me wrong as I suspect that 2 of these these were your problems caused by slipshod assemblers, not the Chinese bearing manufacturer. In addition, I replaced axles on the last 5er - and four out of the 8 brake shoes were contaminated by grease as they came from Dexter.
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