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Old 02-23-2010, 05:04 PM   #1
radioattic
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Why is...

Why is the ceiling fan on the GFCI circuit with the bathroom and kitchen receptacles in my 2006 329RLT? I'm not tall enough to touch it, so I figure I'm pretty safe from electrical shock from the ceiling fan...

Why are the floor vents made of plastic so they break when you step on them?
 
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Old 02-23-2010, 11:36 PM   #2
NCFischers
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There is a code for ceiling fans being in proximity to a water source needing to be GFCI protected. My floor vents are metal.
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Old 02-24-2010, 12:31 AM   #3
radioattic
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Wow, Jim,

I hope my ceiling fan never gets close to a water source. At least, when it does, I hope I'm out of the RV! I don't mean the exhaust fan, now, but the pretty one with the big blades and lights.

That is so odd.
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Old 02-24-2010, 01:48 AM   #4
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Now, THAT is odd. I thought you were referring to the bath fan.
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Old 02-24-2010, 02:32 AM   #5
swanny
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Well had condensation dripping from my ac ceiling vent last year in Fla. Guess their planning ahead
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Old 02-24-2010, 05:25 AM   #6
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by swanny

Well had condensation dripping from my ac ceiling vent last year in Fla. Guess their planning ahead
I like your version of why they did that. along with they probably didnt have enugh circits in the fuse box so they did as most do tag it on another do you have a 30 amp plug or a 50.
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Old 02-24-2010, 08:28 AM   #7
Wayne and Carolyn Mathews
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The floor vents in our 2007 3585SA are metal, and two of them still broke. The frame didn't break, but a few of the smaller "guard pieces," (the ones that run from one short side of the vent to the other side) for lack of a better description, broke off and fell down into the venting. Bish's RV in Idaho Falls replaced them for us.

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Old 02-24-2010, 09:11 AM   #8
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50 amp
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Old 02-24-2010, 10:15 AM   #9
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My floor vents are metal also.

As far as the ceiling fan, get this. When we first got our Monty, I was having trouble with our refrigerator running on AC. After considerable troubleshooting time (it was like a comedy, I described on here some time ago) I finally figured out the refrigerator was wired to the ceiling fan switch. The only time the refrigerator would run on AC was if the ceiling fan was on.
So the fact that your ceiling fan is on a GFCI circuit doesn't mean it was intended that way.
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Old 02-24-2010, 10:29 AM   #10
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Not to mention that the rocker switch for the decorative ceiling fan is very cheap. I dont think we used ours 5 times on and off and the detent on the rocker is already broke!!
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Old 02-24-2010, 12:04 PM   #11
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quote:Originally posted by Johnnyg

Not to mention that the rocker switch for the decorative ceiling fan is very cheap. I dont think we used ours 5 times on and off and the detent on the rocker is already broke!!
Just like the Mission tires, made in China. I added another 15 amp circuit for our freezer and toaster oven. I thought I would not use a Chinese made GFIC receptacle. Wrong, they are all made in China; at least what I had access to here.
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Old 02-24-2010, 12:24 PM   #12
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Maybe the bath and kitchen being on the ceiling fan circuit make it require the GFI.Replace the plastic floor vents with metal ones, the type you can open and close, they won't break and you can control the heat flow better. Got mine at Lowes.
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Old 02-24-2010, 03:14 PM   #13
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quote:Originally posted by kerry

Maybe the bath and kitchen being on the ceiling fan circuit make it require the GFI.Replace the plastic floor vents with metal ones, the type you can open and close, they won't break and you can control the heat flow better. Got mine at Lowes.
The cheaper ones from Lowe's will break out also. We finally bought the pricier cast ones (seems they were almost $20 each). They seem to hold up better, but the damper part of it is plastic, and the one in the high traffic area in the kitchen is already missing that part.
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Old 02-25-2010, 12:34 PM   #14
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Maybe in case the ceiling fan falls into your wading pool below it???
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Old 02-25-2010, 01:17 PM   #15
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Wading pool, is that the poor man's jacuzzi??

Sorry, off topic, we now return you to your regularly scheduled posts.
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Old 02-25-2010, 03:20 PM   #16
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You are better off with out the damper on the vents as they are closed when you step on them so i took all the dampers off to get even heat rather than be going past it and its closed;;;sailer
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Old 02-25-2010, 04:23 PM   #17
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I don't think any two are wired exactly the same except by accident. I tried to get a wiring diagram from my dealer and he basically said the same thing. I was attempting to add a 3 way switched circuit for one inside 12 volt light to come on when you turn on the outside scare light with the remote. It would have an inside switch so it can also be turned off or on from the inside. Haven't got it done yet but I am going to have to track down the circuits by trial and error. Also not keen to start trying to run wiring. I suppose I will have to use surface mounted or is it possible to run vertical through walls? I haven't decide which light yet but I was thinking the one closest to the door. This is a safety as well as security project. Kinda like the inside dome light in truck/car that comes on when you use a remote to unlock the door. Wonder how that works, it could be an easier solution.
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Old 02-26-2010, 01:35 AM   #18
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by RCN.Stoker

I don't think any two are wired exactly the same except by accident. I tried to get a wiring diagram from my dealer and he basically said the same thing. I was attempting to add a 3 way switched circuit for one inside 12 volt light to come on when you turn on the outside scare light with the remote. It would have an inside switch so it can also be turned off or on from the inside. Haven't got it done yet but I am going to have to track down the circuits by trial and error. Also not keen to start trying to run wiring. I suppose I will have to use surface mounted or is it possible to run vertical through walls? I haven't decide which light yet but I was thinking the one closest to the door. This is a safety as well as security project. Kinda like the inside dome light in truck/car that comes on when you use a remote to unlock the door. Wonder how that works, it could be an easier solution.
From what I've seen on the outer walls, adding wiring would be a nightmare. The walls are full of Styrofoam of some sort.
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Old 02-26-2010, 11:36 AM   #19
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The OEM floor vents in our 3400 were metal and never broke. We replaced them with relatively inexpensive metal adjustable vents from Home Depot or Lowe's and have never broken one. Just lucky, I guess.
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Old 02-27-2010, 01:12 AM   #20
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Two points:

I discovered early on that my surround sound system was wired by a blindfolded leprechaun. There is no way its condition could have been due to the 'occasional' error. Even simple chance would have produced more correct connections.

As to wiring a remote controlled scare light, here's an alternative you might want to think about. I bought a solar powered light for my house because I didn't want to get into my attic to pull wires for AC. It has a motion detector and comes on when you walk near it. The light itself is an array of LEDs and the solar panel is in a separate unit. The light is not going to melt your eyeballs but it's enough for me to shovel snow by. I'm going to bring it with me when I go full time if I can figure out how to mount it in a way that won't get it torn off at 60 mph.
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