New member and I need some help! Thank you all

[JPMills]

Hello all! I am new hear and have trade a few threads about electrical issues that were very informative. I’m still having an issue with my RV though.

I have a 2005 Keystone Montana fifth wheel, 38ft with 3 slides. I’m not sure other than this what model it is. The issue I am having is half of my outlets, 2 of the lights, and the fan in the living room area are all not working. 2 nights ago in the middle of the night the power all went out. I’m the morning I noticed that the shore power plug was loose. I unplugged it and reply moved it and tightened the plug nut and the power came back on. That’s when I noticed that half of the outlets and other items didn’t work.

I have checked all the breakers(yes I flipped them all off them back on again), I have checked all the fuses, I tested, and reset both GFCIs, and even replaced one GFCI that the test light wasn’t working on. I assumed that was the issue. Well it’s not.

The thing that gets me is that I made sure to turn off the breaker to where that GFCI outlets runs from to avoid a shocking experience when replacing the GFCI. After turning the breaker back on to check the GCFI, it wasn’t working. Then I tested the outlet with a meter and there was no power running to it at all. I made sure to turn the breaker back on, and test with a meter again and nothing.

This makes me think that the power issue might be at the breaker box somewhere?

Thank you for all your help.

[jsb5717]

First, welcome aboard!

Are you connected to 50Amp shore power? If so, then you might have a problem with either the 50A outlet or the trailer plug. Since the 50A system allows for 2 separate 110v feeds powering 2 separate breaker panels in your power center, it sounds like you might have one of the legs of power disconnected.

[JPMills]

Originally Posted by jsb5717

First, welcome aboard!

Are you connected to 50Amp shore power? If so, then you might have a problem with either the 50A outlet or the trailer plug. Since the 50A system allows for 2 separate 110v feeds it sounds like you might one of the legs of power disconnected.

It’s a 50amp. See photo for reference

[jsb5717]

First thing I would do is use a multi-meter to test the output of both sides of the outlet and then check the continuity of the plug on both feeds as well. Also, if there is corrosion on the plug tangs or in the outlet itself it could limit or prevent connectivity.

[JPMills]

Just so I understand correctly. The legs are separate by each prong at the outlet? Basically one prong is L1 another prong is L2 and one is a ground or nutral?

[Carl n Susan]

Yes, L1 and L2 are power legs with a separate ground and a separate neutral.

[JPMills]

I used a multimeter and the reading at the outlet are 12 for both legs. I also tested the reeding at the plug when I disconnected it from the RV, it still plugged into the outlet. Each leg read 120. Any other suggestions?

[jsb5717]

Sadly you may have to start opening things up in the RV. If you’re sure you’re getting good current on both legs up to the RV then the issue must be internal. Some possibilities might include:

1. Pulling the plug receptacle from the trailer to check the wiring to make sure it’s getting from the plug into the trailer and to the power center…and that there aren’t any burned wires.
2. Pulling out the Power Center to test the main breakers to make sure both feeds are getting power. Also check for burned wires and test the breakers for non-working items while in there.
3. Running a wire from the plug receptible to the Power Center to make sure there is good continuity on the main feed wires to the PC.

There are likely other things to check but these are things I would likely check

[jimcol]

I had a similar issue years ago. It ended up being a loose lug inside the 5'er plug end of my shore power cable. It tested good when disconnected but as soon as a load hit it, it went open. Easy to check, loosen two or maybe three screws on the face of the plug, loosen the screw holding the plug cover to the cable, and slide the cover down the cord. You'll see the lugs. The loose one on mine was easy to identify as it was a bit charred.

[rohrmann]

It's also possible that one of the hot wires have come out of the lugs in the receptacle on the trailer.

[firestation12]

Originally Posted by JPMills

I used a multimeter and the reading at the outlet are 12 for both legs. I also tested the reeding at the plug when I disconnected it from the RV, it still plugged into the outlet. Each leg read 120. Any other suggestions?

OK, if you are going to resolve this with our help, you have to work methodically from point to point. This won’t be fixed by replacing stuff randomly (like the gfci) and expecting an aha it’s fixed moment. Also, from your post quoted above I have no idea WHERE the “outlet” is you read 12 for both legs. 12 what? 12 volts AC? 12 volts DC?
Step one- Start at the electrical pedestal (shore power connection) and give us the voltages from L1 to neutral and L1 to ground. Then do the same for L2. Then take a reading from L1 to L2. That’s 5 voltage readings so far. Use the drawing from post #6 if you are not sure where on the pedestal’s 50 amp female outlet, to insert your multi-meter probes into L1/L2 and neutral and ground openings. Unless you are using an old analog multi-meter, I had some doubt about finding exactly 120 volts at both legs. Between L1 & L2, a reading of approximately 240 volts should be present. If at this stage any of the readings do not yield the expected results, then STOP and resolve the problem at the pedestal.
Step two- Plug the male end of your shore power cord into the pedestal. Take readings at the female end of the shore power cord. Expect the same results as found at the pedestal’s female receptacle. IF they are not the same, STOP and resolve the issue either in the male or female ends of the shore power cord.
Step 3- With the shore power cord connected, go to where your camper’s circuit breakers are located. Remove the circuit breaker faceplate exposing the wires attached to the circuit breakers. Energize the 50 amp pedestal breaker. Here you are are going to repeat taking voltage readings just as you did at the pedestal. The 50 amp breaker should yield the same reading that L1 to L2 did at the pedestal. If not, STOP and look for a problem. Lastly put one probe on the neutral bar and the other probe individually to each of the 50 amp circuit breaker’s 2 wires. Expect something around 120 volts. Let’s stop at this point and hear what the results are, before moving on. There is a good chance the problem lies somewhere the areas afore mentioned.