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Old 08-27-2006, 05:14 AM   #21
sreigle
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Jerzy, the reason you would do that is the same reason I added tranny and water temp gauges in addition to the EGT gauge. Mine are on the pillar on the drivers side.

The Ford temperature gauges do not give you any early warning that things are heating up. They have a "normal temperature range" during which the gauge does not move. Below or above that temp range the gauge moves like a normal gauge. Within the range it just sits there. If you ever heat yours up you may notice it goes from smack in the middle to 2/3 in about 3 seconds.

I added the gauges because I want to see that things are starting to heat so I can react **before** it becomes a problem, not after. I spent about $800 including installation for the three gauges. I had the pillar pod painted to match the color that post was before the pod was installed.

The Ford turbo boost gauge works well. I see no reason to supplement that one.

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Old 08-27-2006, 05:35 AM   #22
Glenn and Lorraine
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Well I guess I will once again go against popular opinion when I say I rarely let'er cool down. Now if I had just been running at high speed down the Interstate and pulled into a rest area than I may allow for a cool down but that would depend on how long I took to find a parking spot.

Pulling into most parking areas is done at a relatively low speed, 5 to 10 MPH. At this speed the turbo is already cooling down and so I feel there is no need to sit there even for another minute.




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Old 08-27-2006, 08:17 AM   #23
Jerzy54
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Thanks Serigle this is advice I was looking for. Another question is: should I install EGT before or after turbo. What do you think?
On the website I found three gauges and a pillar pod for about
$300.00 and I think I can do it myself after seeing the pictures.

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Old 08-27-2006, 12:46 PM   #24
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If I pull right off the highway and stop, I will let it run for 5 mins or so. Most of the time, when you come off highway, you are either driving through town or parked, registering at your campground. I leave it run while doing that, until I unhook and then it is shut off. I have never worried too much about solo driving through town though. If it is summer, I don't usually let it warm up much. I just take it easy until I see the temp gauge climbing and I watch the oil pressure gauge. In the winter, I let it warm up before going. I figure if it is blowing watm air through the defroster vents, it is warm enough to drive.

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Old 08-27-2006, 01:31 PM   #25
gitrdun
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I let mine cool down to 400 degrees before shut off. No need of warm up on these new diesels unless it is very cold.

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Old 08-27-2006, 03:08 PM   #26
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Thank you Glenn!! I thought I was the only one that didn't allow for a cool down. When I bought our 2005, I specifically asked the dealer about the cool down and was told that with the new Duramax, it wasn't necessary. I am going to have to wait until I get my truck back from the body shop ( got smashed about a month ago) to read the owners manual on the Duramax and the manufacturer's recommendation on cool down.

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Old 08-27-2006, 04:48 PM   #27
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I had my EGT installed post turbo, that is the only place the dealership would install it. I know the chance is very slim, but there is still the chance that the probe could come apart and go flying into your turbo. That is the reason the shop gave me why they do not and would not install pre turbo. I talked with a few fellas I know who drive 18 wheelers, and they said the most commom place is post turbo. Again that was their answers, so I went with that. While towing over the 6,000' mark on Thursday of last week, I saw temps as high as 1,100 degrees. I usually followed with a downshift to a lower gear to increase the rpm's which in turn lowered the exhaust temp. As Steve said, this gauge is great for seeing the problem as it is starting, not after it has already occured.


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Old 08-27-2006, 06:46 PM   #28
Bluegill
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Here is what I found on page 12 in my Power Stroke Owners Guide, under
"Stopping The Engine"

"To prolong engine life (after extended high speed or maximum GVW operation), it is recommended that a hot engine be allowed to operate at low idle for about 7-10 minutes which would allow sufficient time for the turbocharged engine to cool down."

I still like the idea of being able to SEE the actual reading of the temperature, So you can correct it before something goes South. Like Montana Sky talked about. This goes for all readings.
I see a gauge being added in my future.

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Old 08-27-2006, 07:02 PM   #29
Montana Sky
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Blue,
I am curious, were you at Blue Crick on Wednesday of this past week?? I remember seeing a Ford from Texas there while I was waiting for my coach to be worked on...


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Old 08-27-2006, 07:08 PM   #30
Bluegill
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No sir, I was here in Bellingham.
Another Texan this far North ? Man they let anybody up here





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Old 08-28-2006, 04:18 AM   #31
Montana Sky
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LOL!
Well if you do ever make it to that side of the mountains let me know.


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Old 08-28-2006, 04:57 AM   #32
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Can't speak to a Duramax but I have 217,000 miles on the original turbo in my Powerstroke (knock on wood) and I cool down. As was suggested, I added a pyrometer and use it to help manage my driving. If I see the temp getting around 1200 while pulling a hill, I back out of the throttle AND I always try to remember to cool it down to 300 before I shut off the engine. It's working.

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Old 08-28-2006, 05:58 AM   #33
richfaa
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In the school busses of couse we do not start the diesel till the glo plug light goes out.we are also instructed to give it a 15 mins warm up in the AM and that time is built into our pre trip. No special instructions on the cool down and I will only cool down if I think that we need to...

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Old 08-28-2006, 09:33 AM   #34
Bluegill
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Ok Montana, I'll give ya a hollar

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Old 08-28-2006, 11:03 AM   #35
Cat320
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On my Yanmar boat engine, I warm it up by idling in foward gear (warms up the entire drive train, not just the engine) and, if running hard, let cool down for five minutes prior to shutting it down.
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Old 08-28-2006, 11:26 AM   #36
jpkelpe
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Our son, who works with a lot of diesels said that you should let it idle two minutes after solo or three minutes after pulling. we don't have the gauges.

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Old 08-28-2006, 03:31 PM   #37
Bluegill
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Thats a good rule of thumb to use Paul.
Thanks

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Old 09-05-2006, 04:46 PM   #38
sreigle
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Jerzey54, I specifically requested mine be installed pre-turbo. It's the heat coming into the turbo that does the damage so that's where I want to know the temperature. As MS said, there's a minute chance the probe could break off and take out the turbo. I've never heard of that happening so will take the risk. Post turbo isn't that bad a choice in my opinion but the temp swing won't be as rapid. My preference is pre turbo but that's just my preference.

As for cool down, if I pull into a parking space and the egt is below 500 I shut if off. If above 500 I let it run until it gets to 500. Only after a hard grade or long hot run do I have to let it cool down more than five or ten seconds. If in a rest area after a very long tough grade I may lock the doors and let it idle while we use the facilities. That's rare that we need to do that, though.

See another Montana or Mountaineer on the road? Flash lights twice, it might be one of us!
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Old 09-10-2006, 09:54 AM   #39
Jerzy54
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Thanks Sreigle. After camping season is over I will invest in adding EGT, Trany temp and Water temp sensors.

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Old 09-10-2006, 11:21 AM   #40
SKOOBDO
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a guy at my campground burned his up...by not letting it cool down so he went out and bought a gasser so he didn't have to worry about it. He was pulling 5th wheel a distance (not sure how many miles) but he stopped and just turned off the truck and the turbo went out. He told me the dealer told him that was the cause of the malfunction. I keep mine running a while after towing and general driving. I figure by the time I get to my destination (on a basic drive), I generally adjust my windows (roll up) get my purse, maybe listen to end of a song that's playing, get my cell phone and my to-do list etc together which takes a few minutes and gives the truck time to cool down some at the same time. I read on the "the disel stop.com" about this issue two years ago...so I'm very careful.

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