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01-18-2007, 03:12 AM
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#21
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Harwinton
Posts: 126
M.O.C. #50
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Speaking of torque, what is the proper torque setting for the lug nuts on the trailer wheels?
Jon
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01-18-2007, 06:20 AM
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#22
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Denton
Posts: 376
M.O.C. #5993
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For those little tasks I stop by the friendly hock shop usually buy the right size socket for a couple of bucks. 1 1/4 in socket and a 6 inch extension for the hotwater heater plug I believe. Hell sometimes you can even find the caddy of all tools... Snap on. Anyway for those few jobs that need to be done regularly still better than a service call. Lets see here a square bit screw gun, pliars, couple of sockets, some wrenches, and a big big hammer you can completely over haul one of these units ARRG ARRG ARRG!
Just kidding........LOL
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01-18-2007, 07:06 AM
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#23
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2006
Location: San Jose
Posts: 728
M.O.C. #5740
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I just love this forum, I learn new stuff all of the time.
Brad, that is a very impressive picture!
I am the least mechanically inclined person I know and I seriously had no idea about torquing the lug nuts. I did have a lug nut snap on my Volkswagen Bug back in high school but, I never knew why.
So, how do I pick a torque wrench? Amazom.com they start at $18, at Sears.com they start at $100.
Thanks all
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01-18-2007, 01:50 PM
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#24
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: merced
Posts: 983
M.O.C. #6171
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I got a CD from the dealer on how to properly torque the wheels. The alloy ones are more sensitive to proper torquing.
Sears has them on sell regularly for half price, less than $50.00. Good investment.
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01-18-2007, 02:06 PM
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#25
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Montana Fan
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Sioux Falls
Posts: 398
M.O.C. #3846
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I bought a torque wrench at Wal*Mart for less than $25. It goes up to 120 lbs or so. It has a spring in the handle that will tighten when you "dial" in the right amount of torque. On my Montana I use 90 lbs. Just remember to reduce the pressure on the spring when you finish with the wrench and store it. As usual Steve Reigle was right on the money when he reminded us to torque several times after the wheels are removed.
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01-18-2007, 03:17 PM
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#26
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Lone Tree
Posts: 5,615
M.O.C. #6109
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Here are some publications on lug nut torque produced by Keystone RV. Evidently they take it very seriously.
http://keystonerv.com/media/pdf/Lug_Nut_Torque.pdf
http://www.keystonerv.com/press/Whee...inititiave.pdf
As stated in the notice - this information supercedes any previous information published in your Montana owners Manual (prior to 2005) regardless of whether you have Al-Ko or Dexter axles.
At least for the newer 8 lug Dexter Axles - Torque is 110 - 120 lbs (except Cambridge).
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01-18-2007, 03:19 PM
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#27
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Glendale
Posts: 1,219
M.O.C. #635
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Harbor Freight has torque wrenches at about $20.00 per copy. I have all three sizes as they are extremely important for anything beyond basic wrenching.
Also, very important -- when using the adjustable dial up type of torque wrench -- always dial it back to near zero for storage. Constant pressure on the spring can affect the calibration. Since I am using the cheaper ones, I am cautious about this
Finally, when you read a spec that gives a range it is best to hit the middle of the range as closely as possible. This is a case were a baker's dozen is not a good deal. Over torquing is just as bad as under torqing.
Also, I agree on adding the multimeter to your basic tool kit. And, spend a little time with it learning how to use it before it is needed.
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01-18-2007, 03:36 PM
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#28
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Liberty Lake
Posts: 2,310
M.O.C. #6088
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I got my torque wrench at Harbor Freight. Regular price was $25 on sale for $13. Now all I need is a straight bar. F Y I - Remember to use your torque wrench for "torquing" only - Don't use it as a breaker bar. When you are finished "torquing" back off your setting to zero before storing.
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01-19-2007, 03:01 AM
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#29
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Harwinton
Posts: 126
M.O.C. #50
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Thank you bsmeaton for the publication site for torque procedures, it answers all questions.
Jon
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01-19-2007, 03:56 PM
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#30
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Kingsville
Posts: 473
M.O.C. #6588
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Every wheel set has a recommended torque rating. The average driver in the US (or elsewhere I bet) have any idea of this. Of those that do, few comply. As for the air guns you have seen in use, most are preset by the users to the approximate poundage required.[ ]
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05-16-2007, 06:40 AM
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#31
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Established Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Houston
Posts: 17
M.O.C. #5963
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Thanks to Dave & Don for the tip on storing a torque wench.I was not aware of that.
We are taking delivery of our new Silverado crew cab Duramax on Monday, and then on to Holiday World here in Katy, Texas to pick up our new 3400 RL.
Bought several items that have been mention in this forum, Water Filters, tools, and a new Troque Wrench. Guess I would have ruined it if you hadn't mentioned how to store it.
Thanks again.
Grumpy
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05-16-2007, 07:25 AM
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#32
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Pittsburgh (Carroll Twp)
Posts: 545
M.O.C. #90
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I bought my torque wrench off E-bay for very little. I have steel wheels with plastic caps over the lug nuts. They have become easier to remove with age but when the 5th wheel was new it was the toughest part of the job removing the caps. Does anyone have an easy way to remove these caps when they are new?
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05-16-2007, 07:58 AM
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#33
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 578
M.O.C. #718
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We have the alum wheels now but when we had steel w/caps I used a pair of adjustable channel locks and pull off
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05-16-2007, 09:24 AM
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#34
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ephrata
Posts: 757
M.O.C. #2801
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Keystone says to torque all wheels except Cambridge as follows:
20-30 ft. pounds first time around
55-60 ft. pounds second time around
110-120 ft. pounds. final
You will need a torque wrench in foot pounds and not inch pounds, also use a 6 point socket don't use a 12 point socket.
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05-16-2007, 11:03 AM
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#35
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: King George
Posts: 356
M.O.C. #6535
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Does anyone have an easy way to remove these caps when they are new?
My local RV dealer had plyers made to remove the caps. Kind of cheaply made but does not take much. They have rubber on them and are shapped to kind of fit the plastic caps. They do work and I think they cost about $6.00.
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