12 Volt lights bright then dim

[Recumbent]

We see the 12 volt ceiling lights get brighter then dim down abit. This repeats every few minutes and they have appeared to brighten up slowly at times when being turned on. All else seems to be working ok. Any thoughts and advice would be appreciated. Garry

[CORattler]

Could be the converter kicking in & out.??? We're you hooked up to a pedestal when this happened??

[jimcol]

Could be the battery going bad causing the charger part of the converter to kick in and out. Jim

[drsmart]

Our converter has a Charge Wizard that automatically selects one of three DC voltage outputs depending on factors shown here: http://www.progressivedyn.com/charge_wizard.html
Your lights will go brighter or dimmer depending on the converter output to the house battery. It shouldn't be switching all the time. As mentioned by jimcol, there could be a problem with the battery.

Dave

[DQDick]

I'd also start with the battery.

[8.1al]

x3 I would take a close look at the condition of the battery

[Recumbent]

The battery has been occasionally putting out excess acid to the point that I put a bucket under the drain tube while parked in our shop. The battery appears to be operating ok when putting moving the slides, landing gear, and stabilizers. I know this does not count, but the monitor lights shows fully charged. Also, I hear the converter kick on and run when we turn on the 12V lights, it seems to be running somewhat louder lately or we have been listening closer. If it is the battery I would like to get a replacement that was discussed here on MOC and described as trouble/maint free, but can't remember the initals used.

[Recumbent]

Yes, we have always been hooked up to shore power when this happens.

[NCFischers]

It sounds as though you have a bad cell in the battery. You might be looking for AGM batteries. These are maintance free.

[H. John Kohl]

quote:Originally posted by Recumbent

The battery has been occasionally putting out excess acid to the point that I put a bucket under the drain tube while parked in our shop. I believe the excess fluid is caused by the converter over charging the battery. The battery appears to be operating ok when putting moving the slides, landing gear, and stabilizers. This statement needs to be qualified if the trailer is still plugged in when you moved the slides or if it was just on the battery. I know this does not count, but the monitor lights shows fully charged. This reading is only an accurate reference if the trailer is NOT plugged into 120 Vac or the converter is turned off. Also, I hear the converter kick on and run when we turn on the 12V lights, it seems to be running somewhat louder lately or we have been listening closer. I agree with Jim F. The battery needs to be checked. If it is the battery I would like to get a replacement that was discussed here on MOC and described as trouble/maint free, but can't remember the initals used.

My comments in your quoted text are in bold. Also if your converter does not have the "four stage wizard" I suggest getting one for under $50. They help to prevent over charging the batteries and boiling them over as you described. I hope this helps.
For further comments on the wizard please state what converter you have and the year and model of your unit.

Best of luck and let us know what you find.

[Recumbent]

The slides, lights, stablizers, and landing gear all work good when plugged in or not to shore power. It looks like a four stage wizzard and a new battery are hopefully the only things needed to correct the issue.

[Recumbent]

After researching and reading previous threads on the battery/converter issues I have purchased a good quality deep cycle battery from Autozone and installed in the Monty. The lights now seem to dim and brighten less often but still do so. We will be returning to Rock Island this weekend and I will climb into the converter area and learn what type of converter we have and post here so others can advise on either a replacement or which add-on 4 stage wizzard mintioned by John Kohl to hopefully correct this issue.

[jimcol]

One other thing you might check is the termination of the - cable off the battery. If that is loose it can create an over draw condition that could have led to the original battery going bad. Jim

[H. John Kohl]

quote:Originally posted by Recumbent

After researching and reading previous threads on the battery/converter issues I have purchased a good quality deep cycle battery from Autozone and installed in the Monty. The lights now seem to dim and brighten less often but still do so. We will be returning to Rock Island this weekend and I will climb into the converter area and learn what type of converter we have and post here so others can advise on either a replacement or which add-on 4 stage wizzard mintioned by John Kohl to hopefully correct this issue.

What is the frequency of the lights dimming. Also when they brighten stand near the converter and see if you hear the fan running. That would be an indication it is doing a charge to the battery. If you have a volt Ohm meter check the voltage when they are dim and then when they are bright.

Jimcol comment is accurate about checking and tightening all connections. At the battery as well as checking and tightening all in the converter area when you have it open. Be careful because there is lots of current available and that can cause BIG sparks.

Since you are pulling the circuit breaker and fuse panel out to gain access. I suggest Killing the 120 AC to the Monty and also tighten all 120 AC wire connections both black and white. Good PM since you are in there.

[Recumbent]

Will do all the above checks and report back. Thanks to all, Garry

[Recumbent]

Here is the labeling on the converter. The converter fan was on most of the time prior to changing batteries but seems to be running the fan less after the change. I will be checking the connections, have unhooked from shorepower, and disconnected the battery. I will order and install any recommended replacements or upgrades, just let me know.
WFCO 65 AMP Power Converter
Model: WF-9865
Input: 105-130 VAC, 1260 W
Output: 13.6 VDC 65 AMP

[hookman]

If you check the top for a plug in like a phone jack you can get a IQ smart charger. It will do 3 stages of charging. Here is the Iota website.
http://www.iotaengineering.com/iq.htm
This will prevent over charging.

[drsmart]

From the WTCO manual:

All WFCO power converters are automatic three-stage switching
power supplies. The converter senses which mode it needs to be in by
checking the RV system voltage.
The three modes/stages of operation include:
Absorption mode/Normal operation
Nominal battery charge and supplies power to appliances
Bulk mode/Charge mode
Fast battery charge and supplies power to appliances
Float mode/Trickle charge
Trickle battery charge during storage

http://www.wfcoelectronics.com/Image...rDocs/14-3.pdf

[Irlpguy]

Drsmart is correct the WFCO (World Friendship Co.) all have the 3 stage charging system. My daughters horse trailer has the model WF8955 PEC which is the AC panel and 12V converter in one package and rated for 55 amps rather than the 65 amps that yours is rated for.

Here are a couple of things to try, while connected to shore power disconnect the battery and run the lights which have been dimming, they will now be powered by the converter alone with no effect from the battery. If they still dim and brighten, try adding a little more load to the converter by turning on a couple more lights and see if that makes a difference. It may be the converter sensing the current requirement of the load and increasing or decreasing the output to the dc circuits.

If the lights do not act as you have described with the battery disconnected, then I would guess the converter is sensing the need to increase or decrease the output due to charging the battery at the same time it is powering the dc circuits.

You can also check the problem with the lights by turning off the 120V breaker that supplies the charger. This produces the same effect as disconnecting from shore power as far as the charger is concerned, and you will be powering the lights only with the battery.

Also suggested previously was disconnecting from shore power and checking the tightness of all the terminals in the panel. I would recommend disconnecting the batteries when working in the panel box as well.

Will be interested in your solution.

Link to your Converter: http://www.wfcoelectronics.com/UI/Co...ptype=3&pid=14

[Recumbent]

I have tightened all the lugs and the fuse/breaker panel and checked the connections on the converter with shorepower unplugged and the battery disconnected. Then after reconnecting to shorepower and the battery the 12v lights would not come on for a few minutes, the AC lights worked just fine. I waited about 3 minutes and the lights then came on very dim. In about 10 minutes all lights came and were bright. I then turned all the 12 volt lights on at once and then they blinked off-on about 5 times then went off. I checked and no shot fuses or tripped breakers. I then unpluged shorepower and got no 12 volt lighting. When plugged into shorepower the converter makes a humming noise for a while then quitens down, and after a few minutes the fan cuts on. I suspect the converter in not actually charging the battery, and since I purchased a new battery last week I have been using up the charge that came with it when doing a few things like slides and jacks. I have been postponing buying a multi meter but now need one, so will go to Lowes to get one then follow the posted WFCO trouble shooting page instructions.