Break-in Period for New Truck

[Tom S.]

quote:Originally posted by seahunter

Thank you all for the replies! It is so nice to be able to hear from people who have done this before. I think I'm going to "split the difference" and shoot for somewhere between 500 and 1,000 and use common sense like some of you mentioned. Good excuse for a couple trips to the beach before we tow, and getting used to the wide-body rear end. I see now what you mean about parking as I could only visualize before. But at about 22' you just have to park in the back forty of the lot and hike in as it takes up four spaces in the smaller parking space lots.

Thanks again! Appreciate the advice.

Even though I don't have a dually (truck with training wheels?), I still park in the back forty. It's a good way to keep your new truck looking new - in other words door dings and shopping carts. Besides, I need the exercise!

[sreigle]

quote:Originally posted by seahunter

Thank you all for the replies! It is so nice to be able to hear from people who have done this before. I think I'm going to "split the difference" and shoot for somewhere between 500 and 1,000 and use common sense like some of you mentioned. Good excuse for a couple trips to the beach before we tow, and getting used to the wide-body rear end. I see now what you mean about parking as I could only visualize before. But at about 22' you just have to park in the back forty of the lot and hike in as it takes up four spaces in the smaller parking space lots.

Thanks again! Appreciate the advice.

We have found a couple of advantages to parking way out there. One, no door dings. Two, more exercise for us, which is a good thing. So good that we now park our small car way out there, too, when we happen to be near the kids, where we can drive it.

--on edit... Tom, I didn't see your post until after I posted this. Seems we think alike on this one.

[sreigle]

quote:Originally posted by Art-n-Marge

I did my break in at 500, then another 500 before towing. We did these miles in a week, driving everywhere we could, then varying speeds (rpms), up and down hills. Got the oil changed (ouch! that's when I found out I needed almost 4 gallons and this one wasn't on the free service for 2 years) We were going away in a week and we had a planned RV trip and this needed doing pretty quick. It all worked out.

Still use Dino oil, don't know if I'll ever convert. The two service places I've used here are still not on the synthetic wagon, and when I bring it up they frown. Since using dino oil means I'm under the truck every 5,000 miles, I use the time to check everything out. I found a rear seal leak this way and some other minor things that needed attention.

Art, they frown because they want your money. Synthetic oil means longer oil change intervals. Less income for them.

[sreigle]

quote:Originally posted by stiles watson

Ford is not an official fan of synthetics. They recommend changing oil at the regular schedule even if you use synthetics. I change oil at 7000 miles on this 6.7 L PSD.

That's really interesting. My 2005 Ford came with synthetic in the transmission and the rear end, from the factory. I bet yours did, too. But I don't think they'd want synthetic in the engine until after breakin.

I think they all recommend the same service interval with synthetic. You have to remember a large chunk of their revenue is from the service bays. Many of those activities are for oil and filter changes. Widespread synthetic use reduces their revenue stream.

[1retired06]

I talked with both of the Ford dealerships in the local area, to include the one I bought mine from. Both were on the same sheet of music; I need 5W40 for severe use (towing), it is synthetic, and both said change as soon as desired. One service manager told me that aside from longer service life, start-ups are easier because of flow, on engines. I am on my third Ford diesel, and always used Rotella 15-40 with no issues. Based on my manual, and service manager discussions, I will play by Fords rule with this new truck and use the syn 5W40 even though I always change out at much lower milage than stipulated.

[sreigle]

Rotella T 5w40 full synthetic for diesel is what I've used on my past three diesels, also. I change oil and filter at 10,000 miles. I've never had to add oil between changes. And I keep hearing I'm changing it too soon but I'm not comfortable going longer than 10k miles.

[Tom S.]

quote:Originally posted by sreigle

Rotella T 5w40 full synthetic for diesel is what I've used on my past three diesels, also. I change oil and filter at 10,000 miles. I've never had to add oil between changes. And I keep hearing I'm changing it too soon but I'm not comfortable going longer than 10k miles.

I use Mobil 1 5-40 for Turbo Diesel trucks and go one year between oil changes (with an exception on our Alaska trip), but I also have an Amsoil dual filtration system. I also use synthetic trans fluid.

[mlh]

I called Mobil a few years ago and ask, when should I change to synthetic oil? Their answer, the day you get the vehicle.
Be careful with your transmission. You can ruin it with the wrong oil. All Ford rear ends come with synthetic in them. and according to Ford there is no need to ever change it, unless it should become commanded.
Lynwood

[richfaa]

It said 500 miles on our 08 6.4 but we did not have time to do that and we hooked up and went.Nothing fell apart and it is still running Ok. As for oil we use whatever Ford puts in it at the regular scheduled changes.

[seahunter]

Well, I've only managed to put about 80 miles on it so far, but oh it drives nice. Still impressed with how quiet these engines are. Shifts very smoothly. Ride is not even as rough as I thought it might be, which should be fine once I get that weight on the back. Went to the bank today and as I got back to the truck I had a Chevy truck next to me and the guy offered to trade - LOL I told him thanks, but I had only had it for four days and thought I would hang on to it...

Thanks again for all the suggestions here on the the break-in. Sounds like synthetic is the way to go. I'm like a lot of you where I just hate to go too long, seems only natural to change the oil more frequently than they say, but I guess the technology is better now days. I always did the 3,000 miles on my older vehicles and that always got me many years of service. I will at least go with the recommended for towing as this will primarily only be towing. It will be interesting to see how close the miles are to when the truck computer actually says to change the oil.

[mlh]

Greg be sure to change your oil and do all the maintenance the way Ford recommends and keep all of your records or your warranty could be void should you have a problem. Be sure to change the fuel filters, if a little dirt or water slip by it will ruin your entire fuel system, at a cost to YOU of about $8000 dollars. That more than likely will not be covered. The fuel filter under the truck should be drained on a regular basis. Should you ever see "water in fuel" displayed on your dash cut your truck off and drain the filter and find the problem before you restart. The fuel injection system and high pressure pump in all of these trucks is very expensive and fragile.
Lynwood

[seahunter]

quote:Originally posted by mlh

Greg be sure to change your oil and do all the maintenance the way Ford recommends and keep all of your records or your warranty could be void should you have a problem. Be sure to change the fuel filters, if a little dirt or water slip by it will ruin your entire fuel system, at a cost to YOU of about $8000 dollars. That more than likely will not be covered. The fuel filter under the truck should be drained on a regular basis. Should you ever see "water in fuel" displayed on your dash cut your truck off and drain the filter and find the problem before you restart. The fuel injection system and high pressure pump in all of these trucks is very expensive and fragile.
Lynwood

Thanks for the advice Lynwood! Lots of stuff to remember. I need to locate that fuel filter under the truck - about how often do you find you need to drain that? I am hoping all the messages from the message center alert soon enough, and not like the old "idiot lights" which only came on AFTER it was too late and the damage was done

[1retired06]

Walmarts here in St Petersburg sell DEF.

[sreigle]

Greg, it should be rare that you need to drain that filter. My Dodge requires a fuel filter change at 15,000 miles. I think my Fords were the same mileage, if I recall. Only once did I have that light come on (on one of the Fords) so I pulled over and drained it. That didn't fix the light coming on. Turned out to be a bad sensor, not water in the fuel.

It is important that you change that fuel filter(s) (my Fords had two) per the schedule.

[mlh]

Greg it is at the drivers door on the inside of the frame. Look for a yellow leaver beside the filter housing. Steve is wright if you ever see "water in fuel" It probably is a bad sensor but if it isn't and some water gets by the filter you just spent $8000+ of your money. You should check it every month at least but no body does including me.
Lynwood

[seahunter]

quote:Originally posted by RonD

The Break-in period is not for the engine, but for the Ring and Pinion gears, they should not be over worked for about the first 500 miles, I doubt pulling a Montana has any effect at all, but pulling a much heaver load could cause a problem, Ron

Since the break-in is for the gears too, should there be a break-in for the four-wheel drive? I've never had a 4X4...I know it says not to run it on dry pavement in 4X4, so is just any unpaved surface good enough to run it? Also, do you have to exercise a four-wheel drive once in a while to keep it lubed?

[seahunter]

Thanks Lynwood and Steve. Ouch, I really hope I don't get water in the system at $8,000 a fix that would not be good - I hope that filter works as designed!

[mlh]

- I hope that filter works as designed!
It will, don't get too up tight, just pay attention to your dash. You should have no trouble. I think you have the best truck ever built. I think you have the best engine ever in a pickup and certainly the strongest transmission. Now go and ENJOY. Just my opinion others may not agree. One thing for sure you cant buy a bad truck today.
Lynwood

[Tom S.]

quote:Originally posted by mlh

I called Mobil a few years ago and ask, when should I change to synthetic oil? Their answer, the day you get the vehicle.
Be careful with your transmission. You can ruin it with the wrong oil. All Ford rear ends come with synthetic in them. and according to Ford there is no need to ever change it, unless it should become commanded.
Lynwood

30 years ago, I would have argued against this point and am still somewhat skeptical. Machining processes leave small ridges that wear done with use - most notably on the cylinder walls. The wearing flat of the ridges was what was referred to as 'breaking in'. With it's better lubrication properties, synthetic oil can slow down this process, thus actually extending the break in process. Why is this break in process necessary? To allow the piston rings to wear the cylinder walls smooth, thus providing a better seal. Having said that though, modern machining has improved, requiring much less time (if any) for this process to take place. That is why many cars, most notably high end sports cars, come with synthetic oil installed from the factory.

My truck is not a high end sports car though, so I went through a 500 mile break in period before switching to synthetic. BTW: that was when I discovered the oil filter was put on at the factory by an 800 pound gorilla on steroids. I'm just glad I didn't wait 8,000 miles to get that thing off!

[sreigle]

[quote]quote:Originally posted by seahunter

Since the break-in is for the gears too, should there be a break-in for the four-wheel drive? I've never had a 4X4...I know it says not to run it on dry pavement in 4X4, so is just any unpaved surface good enough to run it? Also, do you have to exercise a four-wheel drive once in a while to keep it lubed?

Greg, I'm not aware of a break-in period for the 4x4 transfer case. I would imagine it's not a problem since it's not mentioned in the manual about break-in.

As for when to run it, it might help to understand why you do not run the 4x4 on hard pavement. Keep in mind there are 4x4 systems where you can run on pavement but that's not what we're talking about.

When you make a turn, the wheel on the outside of the turn has to turn faster and go farther than the one on the inside. When you are in locked up 4x4, both wheels want to turn at the same rate. That cannot happen on hard pavement and the wheels trying to move at different rates is what damages the system.

So, you can safely use the 4x4 on any surface where one wheel on an axle can slip. Sometime you will, as we all have done, forget to turn off the 4x4. When you go to turn the truck will try to do what I call "galloping" and you will instantly realize your mistake. Sometimes this will even happen on a very tight turn on semi-hard pavement at a slow rate of speed.

So the answer to your question is you can use 4x4 on any surface where a wheel could slip. I generally figure hard-packed dirt roads are ok. If I feel the galloping starting then I take it out of 4x4.

It's a good idea to exercise/use the 4x4 for at least a little bit, maybe a minute or so, every month or two just to keep the seals lubricated, etc. At least I think that's the reason the manual recommends that. I don't schedule myself to use the 4x4 but sometimes I get on a gravel road and it dawns on me I've not used 4x4 in awhile so I turn it on for a little while.

Hope this helps.

If you want to impress your neighbor in a campground sometime... I know this works with my Dodge because of the low rpm torque but I bet it works with Ford and GM, too. When you need to pull the Montana up on a couple of boards for leveling, slip the truck into 4x4 LOW range, then put it in gear and let it just idle while it pulls the Montana up on those blocks. Sweet. I had a neighbor owning a competing brand of truck watch me do that and then come over and tell me how he'd heard about the "legendary" low rpm grunt of the Cummins and how impressed he was that it pulled that big FW right up on those blocks and I never even had to rev the engine. I just smiled and to keep from disillusioning him I did not reach over and take it out of 4x4 low. Then, of course, when I pulled out from under the fw and made a turn I got the galloping and embarrassed myself.