Finished Water Supply Line Insulation in Belly

[Montana_2730]

So this last weekend I decided to finish insulating the water system supply lines in the belly. I had previous posted pictures of the supply lines behind the axles. Now I have finished the supply lines forward of the axles.

As previously done, I decided to tidy up the wiring, heat duct, and review the black and Grey water tank install. So lets start with a previously posted picture. The picture below is the existing water lines running to the forward basement. These lines travel about twelve feet before going up through a hole in the flooring. Both lines are cold water lines. However one goes to the hot water tank and the other stays cold.



Next picture shows lines and heat duct looking back at axle passenger side. I have already added insulation.



The next picture are the lines running forward passed black water flush fitting. And the picture after that is the black water flush fitting.



Black Water Flush



Picture of how to tidy up heat duct



Picture of 50 AMP and positive battery line Keystone installation way



My Way



Finally what the Grey and black water valves look like at the tanks. Look closely and you will see all the wiring just laying on top of the foil wrap. I used $2.00 worth of tie wraps and fixed all that.



The manufacture of the Grey water and black water tank is a company called Travel Star Products. They are located in Goshen, IN. The tanks are the same part number. Tank size is 24 X 63 X 8 in inches.

To do this mod you'll need:

3 hours of leisure time
4 each 6 ft lengths of pipe wrap at $1.39
$2.00 worth of tie wraps
$3.00 Roll of Duct tape

It is very easy to drop the passenger side panels to the mid point of the trailer (do not go beyond). Fold the ABS plastic belly sheet out of the way. Move the foil wrap and start insulating.

Happy Camping!

ed

[sreigle]

Excellent, Ed, thanks!

Did you have any problems with the screws holding the belly pan breaking on you? I'd heard this can be a problem but you didn't mention any problem.

Also, were you able to accomplish all this without dropping any of the hardware attached to or going through the belly pan?

Thanks again for a terrifically helpful post. File/Save As is going to be put to use once again.

[Glenn and Lorraine]

Thanks ed, I have often wondered what my 2955 looked down there. Not so much interested in insulating any water lines as I do not plan on ever getting into any freezing conditions but I will be getting under there to do some straitening up of the wiring mess.
Thanks for the pics.

[Montana_2730]

Steve & Glen,

To drop the ABS plastic is easy all you need is a cordless drill, deep socket,one box wrench, and common head screwdriver. The screws come out fairly easy because the trailer new. There are a couple of screws you'll need the wrench to take out. The gas lines and sewer lines have some clamps on them that you'll remove but the lines will stay in place because your not disconnecting any fittings. You remove all the screws you can see to the center of trailer. There are some screws hidden under the aluminum trim fairings at the edges so you'll have to bend this down carefully and you can take these screws out.

Because the screws are self-tapping and Keystone does not clean the metal shavings up after installing, you will find rust pockets at each screw which goes through frame/rails. I clean both sides of frame/rail and spray with rustoleum. I also clean the rust thats embedded in the ABS plastic off or it will start the whole process over again. I then install a layer of Armorcoat foam to frame/rail to act as a seal and insulator. Armorcoat is a neoprene pipe wrap that is 2 inches wide and 3/16 thick and is self-adhesive sheds water.

The Keystone wiring installation really upsets me. MY $13,000.00 TOY HAULER I TRADED-IN HAD BETTER WIRING PRACTICES. Sorry, just in case Jeff Rank is reading. But I like tinkering so it gives me something to do. I'm an aircraft interior consul ant in my real job so things have to be more perfect for me then most people would accept. The interiors I work on cost millions. I wish I could afford one, the Montana is as close is I can get for now. The wiring going to converter is easy to access and tidy up from passenger side. If you want to tidy up wiring for brake lights etc you'll need to drop driver side ABS. Drop one side at a time that way you do not have to struggle with lining up holes for re-installation.

ed

[Thunderman]

Ed,
Thanks for the pictures. Did you see anything that would cause a small part of the floor to have a soft spot? My 2955 is presently at the dealers for a couple of other problems as well as the floors soft spot. Dealer said they had talked to Keystone about the problem and there was nothing they could do.?? Thanks!

[sreigle]

Ed, thanks for all the great information.

[Montana_2730]

Thunderman,

I have a soft or spongy spot where the heat vent is at by my kitchen sink. The vent is in the linoleum flooring. When you step on this area you can feel the floor sag alittle. I do not relate this to damage of any sort, just bad planning on where the vent is located. I beleive when they cut the hole for the vent there is no support left for the floor. 5/8 plywood OSB board will feel soft when I put my 230LBS on it. You cannot see the floor construction from under the belly because Keystone puts a water barrier in place. You can see this barrier in my photos I have posted. Above this barrier is their artic package insulation.

I personally would not have the dealer do anything unless they tell me exactly what they are planning to do. Because they could really open up a can of worms. The hole needs support on at least two sides to stop the feel of movement. It really is something I can live with. If I think of ay solutions I'll post the pictures.

[Thunderman]

Ed,
Thanks for the reply in regard to the soft floor. Mine is not a real problem but I did want the dealer to check so I would have documentation if a problem occurs later. Thanks again!