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Old 01-24-2016, 07:41 AM   #1
Jsrore
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2016 3790RD hydraulic slides/level not work, HELP

need some advice please....

leveled the RV no issues, put out the electric slides no issues,
when we put out the hydraulic slide the switch stuck in the open position for about 30 seconds before it was noticed ...
when we went to put in slides, electric no issues but hydraulic would not work, tried the level system they also would not work.
checked fuse 15 amp inside RV good, checked the 10 amp by motor good.
have not been trouble shooting too hard yet but noticed when wife pushed switch heard click on relay

any ideas are appreciated...owners manual they give with these RV are useless
 
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Old 01-24-2016, 08:08 AM   #2
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update to my issues...

took meter to motor and solenoid .....getting power from solenoid to motor when slide switch pushed in/out
check level system same getting power from solenoid to motor

if im missing something let me know...but i assume the motor is burned up

any advice appreciated

thanks

jeff
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Old 01-24-2016, 08:21 AM   #3
Kampn
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Jeff,
I found a manual that includes a troubleshooting section in it. Take a look and see if this helps. Please let us know.
file:///C:/Montana/Lippert%20Electronic%20Hydraulic%20Leveling%20and% 20Slideout-Web.pdf
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Old 01-24-2016, 08:36 AM   #4
Jsrore
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thanks for the link...

at least it will give me info on manual override for the jacks and slide if i need to get them in.

troubleshooting i think still points me to a bad motor.
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Old 01-24-2016, 09:41 AM   #5
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Here is a video showing the manual retract for slide out and jacks
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Old 01-24-2016, 09:51 AM   #6
Kampn
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These are the trouble shooting instructions from Lippert concerning the motor. There is a note in another section that said do not test if motor is overheated, let cool first.

Troubleshooting

Power Unit
Before attempting to troubleshoot the power unit, make sure an adequate power source is
available. The unit batteries should be fully charged or the unit should be plugged into to A/C
service with batteries installed. Do not attempt to troubleshoot the power unit without assuring
a full 12V DC charge.
The following tests require only a DC voltmeter (or DC test light) and a jumper lead.
1. Attach voltmeter (or test light) leads to the negative and positive terminals on
motor solenoid. Does the meter indicate 12V DC? If YES, see Step 2; if NO see Step
3.
2. If YES, at the motor, check the incoming leads to 12V DC (if necessary, disconnect
leads at wire splices). Does meter indicate 12V DC? If YES, power unit needs to
be replaced. The motor is not field serviceable. Do not attempt to repair. If NO,
Inspect all wires and connections between the wall switch and the motor. Repair
connections as necessary. Recheck as in Step 1.
3. If NO, Inspect all connections between battery and solenoid. Inspect 30A Autoreset
Circuit Breaker. Recheck as above in Step 1.
Note: Since there are no field serviceable parts in the motor of the power unit,
electrical troubleshooting and service is limited to replacing only those
components as previously outlined.
Note: Thorough inspection of wiring and connections is the only other electrical
service that can be performed.
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Old 01-24-2016, 10:37 AM   #7
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thanks for the info..will watch the video...

does anyone know were the re settable breaker is located

i looked and could not find it....the manual says 18" from the battery the breaker is located....

i think it points to a bad motor...
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Old 01-24-2016, 04:00 PM   #8
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I'd say the motor or trombetta solenoid. The motor would likely burn out if the switch was stuck open for 30 seconds. Motor will run between $700 - $800. May be able to locate a used one.
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Old 01-25-2016, 03:00 AM   #9
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I would pull off/put back on each electrical connection on the manifolds to make sure it isn't just oxidized spade connections. resettable breaker should protect motot wiring...not necessarily motor. The electronics has to open and close appropriate manifold valves so that fluid can move in either direction...symptoms would be same as motor not working. John
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Old 01-25-2016, 07:18 AM   #10
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Jsrore

thanks for the info..will watch the video...

does anyone know were the re settable breaker is located

i looked and could not find it....the manual says 18" from the battery the breaker is located....

i think it points to a bad motor...
Most if not all units have two Auto-reset breakers, one will service the hydraulic pump only and that should be easy enough to find by following the heavy power cable back from the solonoid. You have two heavy wires going from the solonoid to the motor, they control the direction of rotation of the motor.

The motor does not require that a valve be open for it to operate and is protected to some degree by bypassing the fluid when a certain pressure is reached as when a slide is fully extended or retracted. It is not wise to run the motor for any length of time when any cylinder has reached it's max, but I don't think 30 seconds would burn out the motor.

If you show voltage at the motor when the solonoid is operated by the switch then the switch is working as is the solonoid. However it is possible to show voltage but not have adequate current to operate the motor, check all of those connections from the battery to breaker, breaker to solonoid and solonoid to each side of the motor. There should be an audible clunk at the solonoid when you operate the switch, this indicates the solonoid has activated and can then pass current to whichever direction you are trying to turn the motor.

Also check all of your ground connections, often a source of problems.

After checking all connections associated with the power to the pump motor if it were me I would momentarily short between the heavy hot wire on the solonoid to either cable going to the motor, if the motor then operates it is not the motor, if not, it may be the solonoid or as mentioned above could still be poor connections.

The good thing about this problem is that it is pretty easy to troubleshoot, unlike some other issues with these wonderful units.

Good luck







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Old 01-25-2016, 01:24 PM   #11
Mr Pachu
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If it's a "2016 3790RD hydraulic slides/level not work, HELP". Wouldn't it be covered under warranty?
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Old 01-25-2016, 01:52 PM   #12
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it is covered under warranty, dealer is not close and i like to TS my system to help me understand when the one year is up.

they are authorizing a Mobil tech to come out tomorrow.

appreciate all the help also emailed LCI they confirmed that i have checked everything correctly.

again appreciate all advice when you start digging into RV troubleshooting you never know what ODD things you find or what the RV manufactures put in there systems.

i will update the post when i find out.
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Old 01-25-2016, 02:30 PM   #13
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Keep us posted. And Irlpguy, I only wish shops had more repair folks with your expertise/knowledge. Seems like if you get outside of a metro area, it's much harder to find someone who has the hydraulic/electrical expertise to work on these level up systems. I learned more with my recent ordeal, and really got away lucky that the extended warranty paid for the motor the shop burnt up.
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Old 01-26-2016, 11:41 PM   #14
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UPDATE

mobile Techs came out today and did the same TS i preformed, said bad motor and switch.

now for the waiting game.......

i appreciate everyone's advice and help.

Thank you
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Old 01-27-2016, 02:43 PM   #15
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Keep the old motor get it rewound and put it under your back seat for a spare, been there done that.
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Old 01-28-2016, 02:33 AM   #16
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Ragtacker, What would it cost to have the old one rewound? Can any electrical shop do this? I've still got mine that was replaced earlier this month.
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