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Old 02-24-2008, 02:27 PM   #1
dannyl
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Feeling Movement

When I am in the recliner in back or the bed in front I can feel movement when another walks through the RV.
I have the stabilizer jacks up snug and sometimes I'm not unhooked from the TV.
Any thoughts on how to minimize motion in the RV?
 
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Old 02-24-2008, 02:31 PM   #2
boylanag
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We use the roto-chucks and it helps a lot. CW has them. We also got more stability when we added blocks under the front jacks so that the legs are not extended as far. This has been discussed in other threads on this forum, too. You might do a search for other info.
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Old 02-24-2008, 02:49 PM   #3
bsmeaton
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We installed the JT stabilizers and that took care of almost all movement in ours. The stabilizers address the tire sidewall movement side to side, the landing gear play, and the flex in the factory rear stabilizers.

However, it is a pricey add on.
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Old 02-24-2008, 02:50 PM   #4
brenkco
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We use the expanding wheel chalks (from Camping World) that helps some. I have heard that the JT stabilizers also work very well. Using blocks on the front and rear seem to help as well.
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Old 02-24-2008, 04:47 PM   #5
jjackflash
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JT Stabilizers.
http://www.rvwholesalers.com/catalog...?productid=924
Jack
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Old 02-24-2008, 08:01 PM   #6
ronnilu
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I have the SteadyFast stabilizer setup on my 38' 5er & am totally pleased. The unit is so stable that I sold my tripod & use no other stabilizing gear. I feel the advantage of the SteadyFast is that it only takes half the work to install (only 3 stabilizers versus 6 for the JT), the tightening knobs are positioned just below the frame & you don't have to get down on your knees to tighten them, and there are only 3 to tighten, not 6 like the JT. Also, since the SteadyFast attaches to the frame, there is no requirement to install a crossmember like many have to do with the JT when mounting in the rear. And if a crossmember is required, it is not included in the package. The SteadyFast includes all the hardware. All - meaning there are brackets for I-beam frame, channel frame, AND box frame, AND even a new proper size drill bit. Talk about customer oriented. One stabilizer goes front to back which is all that is needed to eliminate front to back movement; another goes side to side at the front, and a third goes side to side at the rear. These in effect stabilize the entire rig, anchoring the frame to the ground where they attach to special footplates (also included). To me these are all reasons why I think the SteadyFast is the better product. Sorry to go on for so long but you asked. (: mike
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Old 02-25-2008, 12:57 AM   #7
Glenn and Lorraine
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Over the years this subject has been discussed many many times. Over the years I spent time and money trying to eliminate this wiggle/wobble. I honestly don't believe there is any way, short of jacking it up and setting it on blocks, you will ever get rid the the movement totally. If you can elimnate 80% you are doing good and I doubt you will get 100%.
We have resigned ourselve's to the fact it is just something w have to live with and am very willing to do so. This movement has become a constant reminder that Lorraine and I are now living a great lifestyle that we truly love and have no desire to ever quit and this little bit of movement is a small price to pay for such a fabulous life.
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Old 02-25-2008, 01:09 AM   #8
quarrles
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We use the roto chucks and rear stabilizers, haven't noticed any appreciable movement with this system.

BTW, shouldn't the front jacks be "on the ground" for better electrical grounding?

John
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Old 02-25-2008, 01:37 AM   #9
bncinwv
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I will have to partially agree with Glenn on this one. However, I will offer this up. The stabilizers everyone is referring to work great on the front-to-back and side-to-side motion. That is only one part of the movement equation however. The other part is the bounce that is a result of the length of these units. On our 3400RL this is compounded when the washer portion of the stackables goes into its 1200-1600 rpm spin cycle which is likened to an aircraft taking off. Our solution has been the $30.00 purchase of four stacker jacks that are placed aft of the axles on the frame and fore of the axles again on the frame (under the location of the washer/dryer closet). These jacks are placed on the same size crib-blocks that I use for the front jacks and the rear stabilizers. This has reduced the vibration of the washer spin cycle by about 60-80% and as Glenn alluded to the overall movement by about 80-90%. We also use the Bal-chocks from camping world between the tires that have the tightening mechanism with the socket driven workings (not the lever) type. We are not full-timers so this solution may not be desireable for everyone, but it works in a very satisfactory way for us. This is provided as the cheap alternative,
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Old 02-25-2008, 01:57 AM   #10
richfaa
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As Glenn indicated the only way you can stabilize these things is to put a foundation under it. As long as the tires are on the ground they will bounce, as long as the slides hang over the frame, they will rock a bit. We can spend as much money we wish to eliminate as much as possible. When set up for a long time we use the wheel chocks and the stacker jacks and the majority of the movement is gone.We have been in campers with the JT Stabilizers and the folks have been very satisfied with them..However, ours is just as stable at far less of a cost. It might be a good idea to try the less expensive method first.
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Old 02-25-2008, 02:10 AM   #11
Mrs. CountryGuy
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quarrles

Al's answer to your electrical grounding question:

NO

your unit is grounded via the electrical pole that provides your unit with power, the campground pole.
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Old 02-25-2008, 04:13 AM   #12
ChuckD
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I have been looking at a set of Stabilizers at Plugitright.com $249.00 for the full set and $149.00 for the front only and no freight charge, seems like a good deal to me
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Old 02-25-2008, 04:16 AM   #13
exav8tr
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I switched to the JT stabilizers at Quartzsite this winter and it makes a world of difference. Takes about 80-90% of wiggle out, the rest is like Glenn said: Just a reminder we are living the good life. Six knobs to tighten does not mean that much to me, I like these things....
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Old 02-25-2008, 04:20 AM   #14
bsmeaton
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by richfaa

It might be a good idea to try the less expensive method first.
Not always a good idea - I tried the less expensive methods first, and I now have a garage full of less expensive methods that will only give me pennies on my dollar when I try to sell them. Looking back, I wish I would have just went straight to the JTs or at least that concept for stabilization (other brands are probably just as affective).

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Old 02-25-2008, 05:32 AM   #15
gpats
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JT's stabilizers can be bought off of Ebay at a good price(was $319.00 with free shipping) and the Rotochoks can be ordered from their on line site or by phone--
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Old 02-25-2008, 10:46 AM   #16
dieselguy
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Dannyl: As long as you're still hooked to the tow vehicle, not much of anything will reduce movement. (if you have dropped your front legs and just don't totally unhook disregard the above). I've got the JT's and swear by them ... pricey ... perhaps. Sometimes you have to part with a few greenbacks to achieve a desired result. Would 4 jacks with the required blocking do the job as well ... perhaps, but not having to haul that extra stuff around and just dealing with 6 T bolts is in my opinion well worth the money. The installation is not at all time consuming nor challenging to the everyday handyman. You will still have some up and down bounce, but hey ... it's a camper.
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Old 02-25-2008, 02:50 PM   #17
scductman
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Guys I built a 3 legged tripod out of pipe and a old bumper jack. I use a pc of chain looped in the bottom and the pipe going up to the king pin. The hitch rest litely on it and takes 95% of the motion out. I have been using this for 10yrs but I do not use it every time as glenn said the motion does not worry me jmho. the factory ones seem to wiggle at the top I think that is why they dont work well mine is solid at the top. bobby
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Old 02-25-2008, 03:21 PM   #18
hookman
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We had JT's installed and find that they work very well and we would not have a 5th wheel without them.
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Old 02-25-2008, 03:30 PM   #19
richfaa
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Just depends how much money you wish to spend to eliminate 80/90 % of the wiggle. I got maybe 50.00 tied up in 4 jack stands. Took me maybe 15 mins to set them up in December and maybe 15 mins to get them out in Mid April. The JT's are pricey and work well...so do 50 bucks worth of jack stands. We are usually set up in one place for a fairly long period of time, a month or more so the 15 mins to set them up is not a big deal and I guess we are just not all that bounce/ wiggle sensitive.Once we understood that this is a RV and not the stick house we also understood that there are big differences. One of them is this things are not as stable as the stick house and no amount of money, short of building a foundation under it, will make it so. It is always of course a matter of how we use the RV.I guess is if ....we were setting up and tearing down frequently we would not care for the jack stands. We do have our share of failed experiments and bright ideas that were not so bright......But we always look for the simple way to do things and sometimes it works.
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Old 02-25-2008, 03:48 PM   #20
bncinwv
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I gotta go with Rich on this one, as I stated the four stacker jacks work well for us, and for the short time we are in the rig each year, I cannot justify $250 or so to take out motion that still doesn't eliminate the bounce. As always, it is a personal choice, but installing the stacker jacks is no big deal for me.
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