Towing 2980RL

[Montana_1949]

We are looking at Montana 5th wheel trailers and find the Montana 2980RL to meet our needs. We like manuverability and living in S.W Colo. we have lots of National Forest Parks and maintained gravel/dirt roads that access them. But my question is about towing.
Our tow truck is a 2000 Dodge Diesel, 4x4, Quad cab, short bed, 4 speed auto trans, 3:54 axel ratio, with a trailer and camper tow package. The 2980RL has a GVWR of 12,450 without options. Can our truck tow this without worry? We travel light and most all of our outdoor camping is without hookups. Also given the road conditions, witch are not to terrible, how do the Montanas hold up?

Bill and Zellah
B-Z Riders

[BamaBrowns]

B-Z Riders

You didn't indicate if your truck was a 3/4 or 1 ton.

Looking at the specs for the 2004 2980RL, it sits at 10,600 UVW. This is before you start adding accessories. If you are doing alot of boondocking, keep in mind the weight of the fresh water and the LP gas.

The Dodge website has an excellent towing guide but it does not take into consideration towing a 5er. Most manufacturers allow more weight for a 5er than a regular towable.

I would rather err to the lesser weight than more. It is just such a hard desicion to make.

Good Luck with your decision. You will get a million different opions on what vehicle with tow what weight. Ultimatly, the choice is yours.

My husband and I started out with our first trailer to match the truck we owned at the time. Within 12 months, we had picked out and larger more comfortable unit and then bought a new truck that was more than capable of towing the 5er.

[Montana_1949]

Ooops, I forgot to include in the Tow truck info it is 3/4 ton.

Bill
B-Z Riders

[Montana_107]

B-Z Riders,
My 30.5fks has had a lot of different problems:
1) shower door came off
2) Kitchen dinette set wood came off.
3) Blind cords broke and had to repair.
4) Roof leaked and had to repair twice.
5) Aluminum skirts on slide out split and had to repair and make a major modifcation to keep it from coming off, now is in good shape.
6) Had to go underneath and add bolts to the aluminum skin to keep from coming off.
7) Had to go underneath and take all hanging wires and tywrap them up as they were breaking off with vibration and hanging loose.
8) Replaced all the cheap window turn handles as the first or second time you use your windows they strip.
9) Had to fix the hot water heater door as it fell off because the didn't have any place to fasten it so they fastened it into the .020 aluminum skin.
Now this trailer is only three years old, bought in late 2001 and have only been on the road about eight times.
I think I now have it in pretty good shape, I certainly hope so because of the money I paid for it. I think I only have one more repair I think I need to look at the shower door is waivering and flexing so I need to put some support behind it in the closet.
Too bad they don't have lemon laws on travel trailers if they did I'm sure it would put the RV industry out of business.
But like I said I now have it in pretty good shape and I hope so as I am going to spend next summer in Canada and Alaska and I sure don't need any more problems or repairs.

In my opinion Keystone has a very bad record in quality for trailers and if I ever buy another it won't be a Keystone, but then are there any better ones without the same kind of problems?
Hope this helps,
fknipfer

[Jetson]

Your truck will pull the camper fine. I have a Montana 2880rl, which is the same basic camper. I pull it with a Dodge 2500 diesel 5 speed manual long bed truck. You should consider a slider hitch for the short bed truck.

The only other disadvantage for your setup is that an exhaust brake would be helpful where you live, but it is not recommended for the automatic transmission. There are companies that specialize in rebuilding the Dodge auto trans. so it can handle an exhaust brake.

In the meantime, I would recommend a good brake controller like the Jordan Ultima, Tekonsha Prodigy or the new hydraulic activated Brakesmart.