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Old 11-02-2017, 06:00 PM   #21
bigred715
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Never have used antifreeze other than pour some down the sinks and shower drain. I drain the system at the drain points and let it go. If it goes into the 20's then I turn the portable heater on. By the way, I am under cover on 3 sides and access to power. It usually doesn't get that cold in Eugene Oregon. Maybe for a week down to 15 or 20 degrees then the heat is turned on.
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Old 11-02-2017, 06:16 PM   #22
happy camper x2
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This works for me. I got a 5 gallon bucket and adapted a male fitting (barbed) to the bucket. Five foot of garden hose attached one end to camper (winterrizing port) attached other end to bucket with hose clamp. Set on six foot ladder and fill bucket with antifreeze. Let gravity feed the pump.
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Old 11-02-2017, 06:39 PM   #23
beeje
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I too do not prefer to taste antifreeze. The vast majority of us do not drink the water that is in our tanks or the water where we are hooked up to. How ever in the spring when it comes time to de-winterize you still have it in all the lines anyway. And as far as flushing the system, you have to do that anyway (or should be) and should be adding bleach to sanitize the tank and lines. If one was concerned about the antifreeze in the tank, as soon as you are done winterizing you could flush out the small amount of it the tank immediately. The difference in techniques would end up being the same after the tank was flushed, and one benefit would be that the line that is between the tank and the pump would be protected with antifreeze (not so using the winterizing port.

Many of you have newer units that do not have gravity fill ports to fill your tanks (mine does) in that case I can certainly understand why it would be counter productive to get the antifreeze into the fresh water tank.
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Old 11-13-2017, 06:05 PM   #24
team bradfield
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we wont drink rv park water, bottled water only for us, so we use the fresh water tank to winterize
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Old 11-20-2017, 03:52 AM   #25
prostockbill
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winterizing ?

I have a 2010 3455sa ...i have winterized it thru the winterizing inlet , but what about the black tank flush inlet ? Anybody do that and how ?

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Old 11-20-2017, 08:30 AM   #26
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Prostockbill,I was told from the servive guy to hook air compressor to black tank flush and blow out at 30 pounds for maybe 30 seconds so just like blowing out the rest of the lines if you blow out to winterize like i do but i follow up behind that with the pink stuff.
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Old 11-20-2017, 11:34 AM   #27
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After running antifreeze thru the outside shower, hot and cold, I connect the hose from the shower to the black tank flush connection and run some antifreeze thru that.
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Old 11-20-2017, 11:44 AM   #28
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BB TX that's a good idea never thought of that. Service guy said just blow it out. Think ill do that next year.
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Old 11-20-2017, 05:54 PM   #29
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thanks for all your help guys !
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Old 11-20-2017, 07:20 PM   #30
rohrmann
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RKassl View Post
What is the difference between using the Winterizing connection and the fresh water inlet to get antifreeze into the water system of the Montana?

Thanks
When you turn the Winterize valve to the winterize position, the pump is directly connected to draw fluid from the winterize inlet fitting. Attached is the drawing I made a while back that shows the plumbing from the rear of the convenience center, and you can see, when the winterize valve is turned, there is nothing else in line from the pump to the winterize inlet. Possibly, if you connected a water hose to the winterize inlet, turned on the water to fill the line while running the pump a few seconds, you would fill the line to the pump, then connect your hose to the antifreeze, and you would not be sucking air, which might make the process go a little better.
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File Type: jpg convenience center plumbing schematic2.jpg (170.9 KB, 6 views)
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Old 11-20-2017, 08:47 PM   #31
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Hmmmm......I think you guys may have answered a question for me as well. I was having some issues with getting the pump to pull antifreeze too. It seemed that the pump was air locking. It would pull some but very slowly and the antifreeze seemed to be highly aerated coming out of the lines. I was thinking there might be some surfactant (soap for those of you who are not Chemists) in the antifreeze though I failed to see why they would have any in the mixture since it would make it hazardous. Now I can see where I might of been sucking air in OR if there is a check valve on the suction side of the winterizing line I can see where that would be an issue as well (thanks to MD Firefighther for that bit of info)!
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Old 11-20-2017, 09:03 PM   #32
mtlakejim
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Bob,
Thanks for the schematic! I don't understand why they don't have wiring and plumbing schematics with every unit they sell. Well actually I do, but wouldn't it be GREAT if they did include them!


I also like the idea of the 5 gallon bucket with the hose attached to the bottom of it. Think I will take it one step further and put a hose bib on the plumbing of the bucket so I can unscrew the hose from it and cap it (Yeah I am OCD according to my wife LOL).


But I think either the loose hose connection sucking air or a check valve on the winterizing line might be my real issue. I managed to get enough antifreeze thru the lines to winterize but it took way longer than I thought it should have......
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Old 11-20-2017, 10:11 PM   #33
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mtlakejim, Your welcome. Im sure if you turn the screen around it will work as it did for me. After i did that it worked as it should have.Fluid came out the way it has always for me the last 20yrs doing it myself. also when your done dont forget to turn the screen back around so the check valve will close to keep water from coming back out and push in the check valve on the city water hook up so pink stuff comes out a bit to.
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Old 11-22-2017, 02:08 PM   #34
Judy Liggon
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Tried to winterize mine last week. Had the same problem that winterizing valve was not sucking up the antifreeze. Called my dealer service rep and he said he has had many calls about this. Keystone is aware that the siphon valve at winterize connection is defective. Service rep said he is waiting to find out what keystone plans to do - maybe a recall. Meanwhile, service rep told me to take off back panel to convenience center. Remove hose attached to winterizing port and put in jug of antifreeze. Turn on pump and it will siphon out the rv antifreeze. Sounded simple enough until I saw that there weren't really a hose but stiff tubes with clamps that I'm not use to. So I didn't want to try to remove it then can't get it back on. To make a long story short, I called Keystone and they agreed to pay the dealership (warranty) to winterize my unit because valve is defective. Thank you to Corey at Keystone. Meanwhile the dealership will notify me when Keystone has a fix.
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Old 11-22-2017, 02:51 PM   #35
mtlakejim
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Judy,
That's the way to stay after them. Please keep us posted!
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Old 11-22-2017, 06:37 PM   #36
Judy Liggon
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Judy,
That's the way to stay after them. Please keep us posted!
Will do!
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Old 12-10-2017, 07:12 PM   #37
Judy Liggon
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Hi All!
Heard from Dealership on Friday. They replaced the winterization valve. Said, "The reason these have not been working properly is because there is a check valve in them and your line that has to be hooked up to them has to be completely sealed in order to keep that check valve open." Keystone also paid to winterize. Dealership had bypassed that valve and went straight from water pump so they didn't have to wait on valve to winterize. Work order had advised Keystone that there were many issues with these valve's on the Montanas. James at RCD RV service in Delaware, Ohio was great to work with.
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Old 12-11-2017, 05:38 PM   #38
mtlakejim
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Ok folks, I work in the oilfield and now knowing the full details of the plumbing system I understand that the only purpose for the check valve is to keep the pump from sucking air when your under normal operation.


I can offer a simple solution: Eliminate the check valve and screw a simple valve ($2.00) like they sell to go on the end of a water hose onto the winterizing connection (perhaps using a 45 or 90degree water hose fitting--also handy for your normal water supply hose connection fyi). Leave the valve closed until you want to winterize. When you want to winterize just attach a short hose and open the valve problem solved......
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Old 12-11-2017, 07:47 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by mtlakejim View Post
Ok folks, I work in the oilfield and now knowing the full details of the plumbing system I understand that the only purpose for the check valve is to keep the pump from sucking air when your under normal operation.
......::...
Maybe in the oilfield. Not in the RV. The check valve at the winterizing port actually works in the opposite direction preventing antifreeze from running out of the lines after winterizing, not preventing air from going in. And the 3 way winterize select valve isolates that line in the normal position so that the pump can’t pull air from that line.
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