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Old 08-06-2012, 02:16 AM   #1
bethandkevin
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Basement door supports

Has anyone else encountered an issue with the support brackets pulling out of the basement doors? You may be like me and not discover it until it goes "pop" when closing. the screws are pulling right out of the fiberglass panel. Camping World and Keystone are taking care of it with a new door. This weekend I discovered the same thing on the other basement door, though it has not yet pulled completely off.
 
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Old 08-06-2012, 02:34 AM   #2
billc1949
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I had the same issue just as we were getting ready to go out on a trip. The screws that they use are really small. I checked all the other one and they we all loose too and replaced them with larger screws .

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Old 08-06-2012, 02:50 AM   #3
Montana_10714
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We had this happen when the trailer was only 8 months old. The dealer fixed it by filling the holes and putting a 3x3 plate to mount it to.




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Old 08-06-2012, 02:56 AM   #4
DQDick
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If you're still under warranty call Keystone. This has been a common problem and they'll get it fixed for you.
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Old 08-06-2012, 04:59 AM   #5
CATCRAW
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Ours pulled out right in the dealers parking lot when we were picking it up from having other warranty work done. Turns out they put 80# struts on and they were too heavy for the door. They changed the struts and put plates and rivets in place of screws and it seems to be working just fine.
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Old 08-06-2012, 08:18 AM   #6
mainer
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Ours also pulled out. Keystone was using struts that were too strong. When we were at the rally last fall Keystone changed the struts and reattached it. Unfortunately they came out again! When Keystone fixed it, it looked like they didn't add a plate. (does definitely look messy) Just had them fixed again at a local dealer in Maine and hopefully it will not break again.
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Old 08-06-2012, 09:26 AM   #7
richfaa
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Our 13 3402 has the plate and looks sturdy...
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Old 08-06-2012, 10:46 AM   #8
Carl n Susan
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While the plate looks sturdy, and in fact is, those seven #8 sheet metal screws pass through the plate and grip on the very thin luan-like door material. The door is hollow with two pieces (outside gelcoat, inside textured luan-like wood). Repeated opening and closing loosens the screws, which then wiggle, and eventually enlarge the hole enough that the screws no longer hold. Even tightening the screws religiously is no guarantee they won't pull out. Installation of larger screws doesn't solve the problem. The door material is too thin and soft. This is another Keystone great idea - bad implementation.

My RV is being worked on right now and all of the compartment doors with the struts are failing (yes, the newer 60 lbs struts are installed). I am both anxious and curious as to the solution. Running screws through the compartment door is one option that I will not accept. There is no way they make that look good on a painted rig.

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Old 08-06-2012, 01:15 PM   #9
mainer
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When your RV is fixed, can you please post what Keystone came up with for the solution?

I'm hoping that our struts will stay "this time" but I don't hold up too much hope. Sometimes I think the way it worked before these struts were a better option.

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Carl n Susan

While the plate looks sturdy, and in fact is, those seven #8 sheet metal screws pass through the plate and grip on the very thin luan-like door material. The door is hollow with two pieces (outside gelcoat, inside textured luan-like wood). Repeated opening and closing loosens the screws, which then wiggle, and eventually enlarge the hole enough that the screws no longer hold. Even tightening the screws religiously is no guarantee they won't pull out. Installation of larger screws doesn't solve the problem. The door material is too thin and soft. This is another Keystone great idea - bad implementation.

My RV is being worked on right now and all of the compartment doors with the struts are failing (yes, the newer 60 lbs struts are installed). I am both anxious and curious as to the solution. Running screws through the compartment door is one option that I will not accept. There is no way they make that look good on a painted rig.

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Old 08-06-2012, 05:29 PM   #10
Carl n Susan
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by mainer



When your RV is fixed, can you please post what Keystone came up with for the solution?
I will be happy to Jim. There are a number of us with this problem.
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Old 08-07-2012, 02:50 AM   #11
bethandkevin
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Reading the posts in reply to my question seems to indicate Keystone has used different materials for the inside of the doors. Carl referenced luan type wood, mine are fiberglass-the same in appearance as the outside, but the result is the same-loose screws. I've temporarily solved the issue with #12 screws-had to drill the holes in the bracket larger though. It also seems that the way the ball is positioned on the bracket makes the strut pull the screwed side of the bracket away from the door surface. Maybe the "ball" should be on the other side of the bracket leg. It would seem to put less stress on the screws that way as it would be pushing down on it rather than constantly pulling at the screws.
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Old 08-07-2012, 04:02 AM   #12
richfaa
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Thanks for the info...That is on my list for my appointment at the service center Sept 17th/. Will watch for the fix...
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Old 08-07-2012, 04:46 AM   #13
Carl n Susan
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by BethandKevin



Reading the posts in reply to my question seems to indicate Keystone has used different materials for the inside of the doors. Carl referenced luan type wood, mine are fiberglass-the same in appearance as the outside, but the result is the same-loose screws.
Actually I think Keystone is using the same material for all of us. I was struggling to describe the thin material (my rig is not here and I couldn't check) and wrote luan-like but you are correct, it is fiberglass (and even thinner than luan). Not substantial enough given the forces involved.
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Old 08-07-2012, 11:43 AM   #14
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I had the same problem and bought a 2 part epoxy adhesive that would bond the metal bracket to the door panel. Removed all the screws including the ones at the opposite end of the piston assembly. Filled all the screw holes on the door panel with the resin, applied some to the metal plate and gently installed the screws. Let it sit for 24 hours then reinstalled the two screws at the other end. The resin had a syringe like applicator that combined the two components as you push on the plunger. The tip allowed injection into the small screw holes. The four plates are well bonded to the doors and none of the screws have loosened.

Dave
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Old 08-07-2012, 12:18 PM   #15
Carl n Susan
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Actually, I had one come off while in AZ this winter. I did something like drsmart only I just smooshed the epoxy into the holes and then attached the screws. It lasted about two weeks before some of the screws started to loosen. Since I knew the RV was going to the dealer for warranty work, I lived with it. I am curious to see what Keystone/Montana comes up with for a solution. If I have to fix it again I will do the same as drsmart and glue the plate to the door.
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Old 08-07-2012, 03:15 PM   #16
sola123
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We basically used the same process as drsmart...except we used contact cement after filling the screw holes with wood dowels....let set for 24 hrs...and reinstalled the 80 lb pistons...no problems for the last 2 years....also had to move the plate on the door up 1/2 inch so that the piston would fully extend....have only had problem on one door
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Old 08-10-2012, 07:26 AM   #17
BillR48
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I agree with SOLA123. My unit was still under warranty but since I'm pretty handy I elected to fix the problem myself rather then pull unit to dealer. I removed plate and screws and using a 1/4 drill I slowly drilled out screw holes, I then cut, to fit correct length, 1/4 wood dowels added wood glue and inserted in screw holes and let dry for 24 hours. I re-installed plate and screws. No problems since.
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Old 08-10-2012, 10:20 AM   #18
Carl n Susan
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Not having a lot of confidence in Keystone's fix, I figured I had better understand your solution so I can implement it when theirs fails. Basically you enlarged the holes to 1/4" and inserted short pieces (cut to length) of 1/4 dowel in the holes. it seems the wood glue will attach the dowel to the exterior wall on one end and a small amount of contact with the edges of the 1/4" hole on the other end. It doesn't seem like this is a lot of holding power. Do you think it works due to the aggregate holding power of the seven dowels???
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Old 08-10-2012, 12:08 PM   #19
steelpony5555
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Sounds like they need to sandwich a metal plate between the fiberglas sides, But that means redesigning the door and retooling the factory, with another step in manufacturing, with more material, which as we know means more money..
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Old 08-10-2012, 03:10 PM   #20
sola123
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I guess the w hole combo works ...has not fallen off since we fixed it....
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