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Old 12-20-2004, 06:28 AM   #1
Random Line
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Gate valve in sewer outlet line-------

I notice that lots of folks have the gate valve in the 3" sewer outlet.

I have the gatevalve from CW. Plan to put it in in a day or so. Will normal PVC pipe cement work to cement this valve into the black pipe used in the Montana sewer system?

Any other good advice available on this installation?

Thanks.
 
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Old 12-20-2004, 06:53 AM   #2
Treecounter
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Jim, PVC cement is just fine to use on sewer pipes. That is what plumbers use. That gate valve is a great addition. don't know why the factory doesn't put them on.
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Old 12-20-2004, 10:29 AM   #3
NJ Hillbilly
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The sewer pipe is not PVC it's ABS. There are universal glues that will work but for the small investment ($3) it's not worth the risk of having the piece come apart.

John
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Old 12-20-2004, 11:36 AM   #4
sreigle
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I didn't know it's ABS and used PVC cement. It's a strong bond, I don't think it's going anywhere. But John's precaution is probably worth looking into if you haven't already installed it.

Like the others, I think it's a great addition, especially if you're not hooked up to sewer and need a little more bath tank capacity.
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Old 12-20-2004, 02:45 PM   #5
Montana_2230
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"Like the others, I think it's a great addition, especially if you're not hooked up to sewer and need a little more bath tank capacity."

Steve, what is a gate valve and how does it increase tank capacity?. I need more capacity. Hard to convine my wife that you don't take 45 minute showers in an RV.
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Old 12-20-2004, 03:18 PM   #6
NJ Hillbilly
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You can mix the gally and grey tanks to gain a little more grey capacity.

John
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Old 12-20-2004, 05:46 PM   #7
Parrothead
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How do you have enough hot water for 45 minutes showers?
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Old 12-21-2004, 06:05 AM   #8
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[quote]Originally posted by Parrothead

How do you have enough hot water for 45 minutes showers?
-------------------------

Sounds like the temperature would have to be set real low.
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Old 12-21-2004, 06:17 AM   #9
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[quote]Originally posted by Random Line
-------------------------

Lloyd, John, Steve,

Thanks for the advice. My Pvc glue was the multipurpose type and the label mentioned ABS as on of the types of pipe that it would work on. I had to buy a couple 3" connectors from Lowes. They were black like the valve body and the outfall pipe and showed up on the cashiers computor as ABS so I put it all together and it worked fine. Also have glued some white 4" pvc with the same stuff and it seems to have worked. Now the rest of the gue is evaporated to the slime stage and I can throw it away.

Next Question:

Want to hang a 7' PVC section crosswise behind the fromt jacks to carry a sewer hose. Have it all made up with end caps etc. Need some suggestions for the best kind of straps to use. (like: easy to get, easy to install, sturdy and cheep!)
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Old 12-21-2004, 06:42 AM   #10
Gene Chaltry
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There is a new product called Sewerspill Eliminator. You can see it at www.sewerspills.com
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Old 12-21-2004, 07:31 AM   #11
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[quote]Originally posted by Gene Chaltry

There is a new product called Sewerspill Eliminator. You can see it at www.sewerspills.com
----------------------------

Thanks I think that one is a winner. It doesn't have a lot of extra length or weight to it.

I purchased a twist on one from CW that had too much extra pipe attached and a 8 or 10" see through section. Hauled it around for a while and finally decided that I didn't want to add all that extra weight and length right in front of the wheel and tire where slush iceing in some situations might breack the whole thing off.

Now I've got another excuse to go back to CW store so I can return it.
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Old 12-21-2004, 07:45 AM   #12
Montana_2230
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Well maybe it just seems like 45 mins, but she does use all the hot water.
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Old 12-21-2004, 12:33 PM   #13
sreigle
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The gate valve is just an extra dump valve. In this case it's mounted at the end of the dump pipe where the sewer hose connects. We got ours at Camping World but you should be able to get it from any RV dealer. You need the valve plus a sleeve. I cut off the existing pipe just behind the place where the sewer hose connects, to eliminate the pegs the hose connector goes over. Then glued the sleeve over the remaining pipe, then the gate valve pipe glued into the sleeve. It's about a 15 minute job including sawing off the old part. Parts were less than 20 bucks.

Our problem was we filled the bath tank long before the galley tank that only has kitchen sink water going into it. Each of those tanks are 38 gallon. We can close the new valve and open valves for both the galley tank and the bath tank. They will then share since they're connected by the dump pipe. You get (read below) the capacity of both tanks plus whatever the dump lines hold. In reality, since the sink is lower than the shower you can get water into both tanks until it starts to back up into the kitchen sink. Not quite twice the capacity of one tank but you could then close off the galley tank and finish filling the bath tank if you wanted to.

When time to dump, I close the two gray tank valves, open the new valve to let water in the dump pipes to drain, then drain the black tank, then the galley tank, then the bath tank, as usual. It's a really slick setup for when you are somewhere without sewer hookup for a couple of days longer than you can normally go on just the bath tank. Or more than a couple of days if you're real careful about water use.

If that doesn't explain it, post back and we'll try to amplify. If you buy the parts, be sure to tell them you also need the sleeve. You need one that goes OVER the dump pipe. It's the same size as the pipe on the gate valve so when you're buying, take the valve out of the package and make sure the sleeve fits over it. It was scary thinking that if I screwed this up we have a problem but it turned out to be a simple job.
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Old 12-21-2004, 12:35 PM   #14
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Hey, with only ten gallons that is not hard to do. One of the pluses of the Monty is the 10 gallons. Our old units had 6 and I hated it. We use to go to Motels just so we could take a long hot shower. No need now. I haven't ran out yet but it isn't 45 minutes for sure. When it is really cold (for Calif. we do get to 29 occasionally) and the incoming water is cold, I talk hubby into using the propane instead of electric because there is hotter and faster hot water.
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Old 12-21-2004, 01:55 PM   #15
sreigle
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Jim, I put an extra on ours, just behind the original. My piping had the drain holes in the sides, just like the original. I put those holes on the bottom, drilled straight up through the holes, through the pipe and into the frame and used self tapping screws. It's been to both coasts and still tight. I used large washers to spread the load on the screws a bit but there's not a lot of weight on them. This is the same way our original is mounted.
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Old 12-22-2004, 11:52 AM   #16
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We used 6" sewer pipe for our 3" hose and plastic rain gutters to support it. Find it is much better than 4". Used Plumbers tape to hold it. Put two of them in the rear and used inch and a half strap used to strap Joyce to braces. It is hard to bend but will hold a ton. WE put our wash brush and the rods for the screen room and some fishing poles in them.
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